Hi Guys,

So I've been repairing this bus which seems to have been left to just rot over the last couple years, with all kinds of deferred maintenance. I've finally got everything working properly (new brake sensors, getting backup brake pump working, brake lights, four new rear tires, the whole kit and kaboodle) but I've got two little nagging issues, one large and one small.

As I was rebolting the driver's seat down last weekend I noticed a small leak in what turned out to be the lower fuel return tube, coming from behind a bracket on the frame. Right where I put the arrow on the parts diagram:



So I went ahead and ordered a new assembly off ebay (not a cheap part), but before it gets here and I take a shot at bolting it on, I wanted to see if anyone here has had experience replacing a line similar to this. Hopefully it's not a big deal, just bolt on and off, but I have no idea yet.

The other issue is a very slow leak from somewhere in the transmission vent plate area. It's very dark fluid (although that area is very dusty in general) and could be coming from what looks like a bleeder screw (clutch?) or something in that area; the inside of the housing (accessed via removing the vent) is relatively clean looking. Maybe a couple drops a week over the last couple weeks; enough to notice but not a whole ton of fluid Not sure what model the transmission is, just that it's a five speed manual.

Anyway, anyone have any insight on either of these issues? Thanks a ton in advance!

worst part I can think of is on my bus all the fuel lines, and airlines and electrical wires are all on the same frame rail and it could be tight undoing everything to get line out, also do you have to drop the tank?

__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton

I don't think I have to drop the tank. It looks like there's a junction around the frame that the tube portion I'm replacing hooks into. I've been watching some 5.9 Dodge guys on YouTube and I'm really glad I'm not stuck doing what they do and having to worry about the tank and straps and all that (hopefully!). It does get pretty tight around the cross rail so I'm not looking forward to that. Almost looks like I have to unhook everything and slide the assembly through.

I also wonder if I need any kind of special thread locker or if blue loktite would cut it, especially against diesel. The part comes in tomorrow so I'll probably find out Friday.

Ok so, that was easy. Well not really, getting the old one off was a real pain in the ass, but with ample amounts of PB blaster and human torque we got it done. The new one went right on (not threadlocking anything after getting that last one off, hell no) and the bus sounds great; no more lopey idle, no more leaks. Everything seems to be pretty ship shape mechanically, and all around except for the tail lights.

Tail lights: turn signals functioning, brake lights functioning, no running lights when headlights are on. Anyone run into this before? I'd like to do them as they should be, but unless I get smacked with an epiphany in the next couple days it looks like I may just have to get some aftermarket trailer/running/clearance lights and figure out how to wire them in. Most switches on the driver's console don't do anything anymore (fans and interior lights excluded) so I was thinking I could maybe run a wire from there and just flip them on manually. Problem is we have to be on the road a week from Friday so the clock is really ticking. Will have a Honda EU2000 on board, so worst worse case I may just have to run it in the back of the bus (it's cut off, so genny would be in open air) and power the new taillamps via it's 12v outlet. That's Janky as fuu tho, so I'd rather not.

If you have a basic headlight switch like gm/ford p'ups it could be burnt out,I have pictures in my thread of said switc

Going into switch(is the same)is a headight feed,dash feed and clearance/park feed
With one small 12ga going in

I grabbed a hot fused off one of the panels and ran it through a 20amp switch I had and simply unplug clearance lightsfrom head light switch quick easy fix and can easily flash thankyou's to truckers etc

__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton

Yeah if I can't figure out where the wiring issue is my plan is to run a pair of red clearance lights off a switch that works (may have to unplug the fan but it could be worse). The turn signals are already rigged up in the same fashion, only with a pair of switches on the main dash. Really it's just another way for me to spend my free time cleaning up someone else's mess

It's the same connectors as trailer wiring though, so in the meantime I've ordered a 25' extension kit that I can cut up and at least resplice where it splits off the main harness if I have to. Also ordered a cheap tester just in case. And some 12v cables for the Honda, you just never know ;)