Fran (Sinclair) skoolie

[baadpuppy]

That would appear to be an air duct to duct warm air from the driver's heater back into the passenger area. In some busses, that would also contain coolant lines that go back to rear heaters. In others, it would just end at some point.

It should be safe to remove. If you find coolant lines, then either remove them (if you're removing the rear heat if you have it) or protect them.

Looks like you're making good progress. Looking good.

jim

[dirtygoat]

The wheel chair hooks will have one bolt going threw the middle... Clean out everything with a shopvac and screwdriver and you should see the head of it...

Someone will have to go under and hold a wrench on the nut...

[Seeria]

Not much luck on removing those--though we're tempted to get a blowtorch thing
Floor has been de-rusted and treated, minus the annoying whchr blocks. Had to lay down a few sheets of metal after removing rusted out sections. Riveted those in. Put new seals around back and lift door, though need to put on a new corner piece for the back door that has one corner rusted out.

Painting is all done for now, no yellow showing anywhere. With warmer temps I will be retapig her up and wetsanding and putting on a new coat of paint. Paint job looks a bit rough in my opinion. Almost hammered look in most places. If I could afford to spray her I would, 'cause brushes and a variety of rollers doesn't cut it for a pro looking job.

State patrol officer arrives in an hour to do the forms for retitle, then it is off to the DMV for plates and new title.

Oh, this is a shot of the underside. I'm trying to figure out where I can do SOMETHING so I can strap on the water barrels. Using heavy duty wheel chair strapping (high rated, expensive but came with bus). Might reinforce with those tornado metal straps. Thing is I don't have access to a welder nor a drill that can get through that thick of metal. Any suggestions?

8 weeks to go

[Diesel Dan]

... Thing is I don't have access to a welder nor a drill that can get through that thick of metal. Any suggestions?...

I suggest you buy a corded drill with the largest chuck size you can afford. 1/2" would be ideal, but if not affordable, then 3/8" would have to do. I have one corded drill and one cordless drill and find that I use them both all the time (not to mention my drill press), but of all those the corded drill is the most indespensible. So long as you aren't worried about batteries you'll get through that metal eventually. Start with a smaller drill bit, like 1/8", then medium, then final hole size. Brush motor oil onto the drilling area periodically as a lubricant. You'll get through eventually, but it won't be fun working upside down. I'm getting ready to start hanging tanks myself, but am not looking forward to it.

Oh, and I'd try to do something about that rust on the frame of the bus before hiding it behind your tanks. Even if you just give it a quick wirebrushing and then POR15, that would be better than nothing. Once I do that initial treatment to the rusty areas of my bus' underside, I plan to use a sprayer of some sort or even just a paint brush to apply used motor oil to the whole underside frame and chassis, and then repeat periodically to keep the rust at bay.

[DSMRacing]

Expanding on what Diesel Dan said, I'd certainly want to do something about that rust on the underside. I'm ASSuming that it has been in some northern weather where ya'll salt the roads. Salt is terrible to try to paint over, so I'd go farther than just wire brushing it. I'd go ahead and solvent clean it. You'll want to get rid of any loose material before solvent cleaning. A metal putty knife works pretty well for that. As far as solvent, go down to your local Sherwin Williams and tell them what you're trying to do. They should be able to recommend a good product and you can pick up a good paint to go back with while you're there. For more info on the specifics of how-to you can do a searach on SSPS-SP1 and there's a standard for it.

[Seeria]

Thanks all I plan on removing and treating the underside eventually, but will have to spot treat for now since time is short. And funds are getting shorter. Working out plumbling plan still so might go with a frame like Vonslatt's or may stick with the heavy duty straps and a couple braces. Really need to be able to remove the tanks without too much trouble, so straps might win out.
I do have a 3/8 chuck corded drill, though I'm finding the bits I have are less than able -- will have to buy more, again!

Didn't get plate or new title yet, turned out to be more money than I had on me so heading back Friday. Will also pick up the flooring and wall materials at that time. Will be a BUSY weekend

[dirtygoat]

Cutting oil make a world of difference...

[Seeria]

Found the problem... bad alternator and one dead (bad cells) battery. Don't have funds to put her into the shop at moment so waiting a week or so before calling the local heavy duty shops. There is a one near here that specializes in International and Allison, though I'm afraid that might be the most expensive one. Will have the heat gage checked then, too.

We've changed out an alternator before but never in something this big. How hard is it? Any special tools? What about the heat gage? Can we do that ourselves? We do have the ISIS dvd now, btw.

We had to buy a marine battery to get the bugger running long enough to get her home today. Purred to life easy with the new battery, but guy at auto shop with his tester thingymajig says the alternator is bad and will eventually suck the new battery to bad shape. Figure leave her here for a week and get the floors built on her while waiting for funds to either fix her ourselves or drag her 10 miles to the shop.

OH and did get it licensed and retitled as a motorhome today after a very long wait in the DMV. YAY ouch that was expensive.

ugh what a day Funny thing is... we have been here before with a bad alternator, sitting in a parking lot while on the road full time, wondering what the heck now. Ah, good times.

[bus-bro]

Bigger wrenches, same process.

[Diesel Dan]

I changed my alternator recently and it was no different than a car. Mine had a couple stubborn bolts that didn't want to come out, but other than that, no problem. Nice thing about a bus engine is you've got plenty of room to work in, if you've got a dognose style anyway.

[Seeria]

Few update pics. Inside from last week and final preps before putting in flooring and walls. Wheel wells still needing work, doing that this mornin. Paint job without wetsanding and a third layer.

[wmah]

With the dash you may be able to pull it out and re solder the contacts on the board and may get lucky and it will work right after that.

[Seeria]

Thanks, will prob try that since we do have sodering tools.

On the radiator, I can't find a "don't fill beyond thi sline" thing. I did find this green bubble thing. Is this where the water level is supposed to be?
And... isn't it supposed to be orange not green?

[keith]

you don't need to own a bus,,yes its green,it coolant and they do have other colors too and the glass ball is your full mark

[Seeria]

I was told that these engines need the orange coolant, not green like little cars get.