





Accordion wrote:Awesome bus! There is lots of info on this forum about roof raises. Actually, there is everything you need to know.
Please keep us posted on your progress. Take lots of pics. See your conversion to it's fruition.
What state do you live in?
OOPS! I gotta get better glasses. I see now that you are in Washington state. I lived in Seattle for a year. I liked it.


pipopak wrote:These guys:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10838
are doing a terrific roof raise job right now. While they went a little too far up "for my taste" the method looks foolproof.

bus-bro wrote:You got my bus, but with a turbo'd cat; and I paid more. I think they are 6' 4" headroom, or there abouts, from the metal floor to the high point, I've got 1" insulation and 3/4" plywood on the floor, and at 5' 10" I still have a couple of inches of headroom when I stand on the 2 & 1/4" pile of plywood on the floor. (an OBTW: Home Depot has 3/4" cabinet grade plywood for 25 bucks, annual holiday thing.)
If you want an all-season bus, strip all the interior metal and have it foamed. Converting a bus is a lot of work and money depending on what you want. It's probably smarter to go quick, dirty, and cheap--and use it. If you want to keep on bus'n, there's always another bus out there. They're cheaper than they've ever been.

bus-bro wrote:
If you want an all-season bus, strip all the interior metal and have it foamed. Converting a bus is a lot of work and money depending on what you want. It's probably smarter to go quick, dirty, and cheap--and use it. If you want to keep on bus'n, there's always another bus out there. They're cheaper than they've ever been.




Before spending $$ I want to buy the ones that will do the job... And do I "have to" separate starting battery from others to avoid draw down? Common sense says yes???
The wood subfloor over the steel is in great shape... any big disadvantage to leaving it intact? And the plates over the Sending units on the tanks??... are they req'd to stay accessible?

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