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11-02-2014, 07:00 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Skiddy- 1991 MVP
We've had our bus for one month now and we're just about done with the demolition/gutting phase. At this point I figured it was time to go ahead and start some posting. (plenty of questions). Up to this point we have removed all seats, rubber, and plywood floor, as well as the metal wall and insulation below windows. Our plan is to knock any serious rust off with a wire brush and cover the floors and vertical supports with a rust preventative. Any comments or suggestions are wanted and appreciated.
Skiddy is 91 Thomas Built MVP 72 passenger. CAT 3208 T210. MT643 Transmission.
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11-04-2014, 08:36 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Carry on, man. That is the exact bus I want to build from. Excellent choice!
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11-04-2014, 02:31 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
welcome and post pictures as you go
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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11-06-2014, 03:52 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 55
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Crown
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Welcome! We found that a drill attachment called a flap wheel really took off the rust fast. (Much faster than anything else we used) Then we washed it with a adhesive remover to get rid of residue glue, then we put down Hurculiner on the bed to prevent any further rust.
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11-08-2014, 10:18 AM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Amtram
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Sandblasting is probably the fastest method if you have a significant amount of rust like I did on the floor.
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11-12-2014, 07:05 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Finally got our metal flooring covered the other day.
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11-12-2014, 07:18 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
When we bought our bus it was a "move out special" of sorts. the family we bought from was moving back out west and left all kinds of goodies for us to sort through. while this did add some extra work, we ended up with several bonuses ranging from a spare bus tire to this 7 day cooler.
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11-12-2014, 08:32 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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What is this?
can anyone give me some insight as to what this is? There is one located on each side directly in front the rear wheels. Thanks.
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11-12-2014, 08:44 PM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 471
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: Ford B600
Engine: 6.6L Turbo Diesel
Rated Cap: 26
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
That is a sander to drop road sand in winter/sloppy road conditions in front of the drives.......
__________________
We few, we Band of Brothers. For he who sheds his blood with me shall be my brother.
- William Shakespeare ("King Henry V")
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11-12-2014, 09:32 PM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
thank you so much
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11-12-2014, 10:53 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Those sanders are missing their aiming tubes.
There should be a tube from each of those spouts that would normally be about 8" off the ground right in front of each drive tire.
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11-21-2014, 05:56 PM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
alright. getting ready to make a home depot run. the plan for tomorrow is to continue where we left off with the rust preventative and silicone plugged floor. first a vapor barrier, most likely plastic. Next 1 inch insulation board going across the floor between the small raised edges along the bottom of each wall. The floor insulation will be graded for 15 psi( should be plenty to support weight without having to screw down "floor joist"). finally plywood of an undetermined thickness will be glued with construction adhesive to the insulation board and screwed along the edges next to the walls, all the while overlapping seams between insulation boards. BOOM! pics by tomorrow night God willing
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11-21-2014, 06:25 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Sweet bus! Welcome to the gang! There are a bunch of us who are using the exact model you are. So there should be lots of help in here.
-Doc
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11-22-2014, 09:49 PM
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#14
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
a little over halfway there! should knock this out in the morning!
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11-23-2014, 07:02 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Very nice! I'm right there with ya, I'm removing the rubber flooring today, just finished removing the seats. Feels so good to have this project to work on! Friends are quickly learning to stay away or else they are put to work.
Fixing to grab a sixer and head out to the bus. AHHHH sunday mornings.
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11-24-2014, 10:10 PM
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#16
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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sheet metal
this week i plan on ordering some type of sheet metal to replace 10-12 windows, depending on the final floorplan. Does anyone have any input on what type/gauge of sheet metal to use? (galvanized, hot roll, cold roll) I want to make sure whatever i choose will hold up to elements, but also paint over and match well with the rest of the bus. To me 14 gauge seems like the minimum thickness, but maybe thats still overkill. i dunno
anyways thanks for input. really loving the possibilities for this project right now
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11-24-2014, 10:26 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Hey guys --- best bet is to try and match your existing sheetmetal. Some are odd. Blue Bird for example specs their own steel which works out to something like 15 gauge (in between 14 and 16). Not anything one would find "off-the-shelf". I went with 16 on my last BB project. As long as you stay close you should be OK. It will minimize stresses between elements.
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11-25-2014, 05:01 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
Yes, after working with sheets of steel for a long time, I'd say 16 would be fine. If you think that's too thin, go 14.
I'm in the middle of "rivet removal hell".
We burned the seats and rubber flooring. What a blaze!
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11-25-2014, 08:33 AM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
I used satin-coat 14 or 12ga. I can't remember exactly, but I matched the thickness that Thomas used on the rest of the body. My thinking was that thicker steel would be less likely to "oil can" in the sun. So far it has worked great. Satin coat is nice since it won't rust while out in the elements without paint. Satin coat is a type of zinc coating, I think. When you get around to painting be sure to use a self-etching primer. I've been having good luck with rustoleoms product.
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11-30-2014, 09:55 AM
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#20
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 17
Year: 91
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: cat 3208 T210
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP
what is the advantage of the self etching primer?
also, originally i was dead set on using 2" foam board in my walls for insulation. then i found a pourable expanding foam option that i am leaning towards now. my question is why does nobody use the old school fiberglass batts or rolls? is water the issue or is it the better closed envelope that expanding foam gives you?
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