the akitabus

[freakn]

Hello, I have the same lower vent for my fridge. Yours does look to be upside down, it should have the twist latches on the bottom. If water runs over your it will fill up. Also if you plan on using your fridge on propane, I would line the back wall and upper vent with thin metal. The reason being, I recently took apart a 2008 travel trailer and found the panelled wall behind the exhaust portion of the fridge charred slightly. Also you want the back of the fridge well sealed from the interior of your vehicle in case of propane leak, it should leak outside. I know its sounds a little over kill, but I have had a leak from a fridge in a trailer. I just happened to notice it when I went in to grab a beer, could barely breathe. Both kids were sleeping inside at the time. Scary... I just installed my fridge, I lined the bottom. top and sides of the opening with metal flashing and then sealed it. once the fridge was in place I used spray foam to finish the job. (sorry no pics of installation). Now I sleep better.. That's all for now, thanks, Carl

[dogfinn]

If I flip my vent over so that the latches are on the bottom so will be my little vent holes in each vain of the vent, the way it is the picture the holes for the vent are on top and no water can get in. Perhaps they have changed the way the vents are made because I am 100 % sure that it is in correctly.

[freakn]

Your right, I just looked at mine. The design is the same but the latch is on the bottom, sorry about that. Cheers

[dogfinn]

Time for a little update, plus I get moved to the front of the list. Any comments are surely welcomed and used in our bus building so don't be shy.

Lower vent hole for the Fridge

Hole cut through roof For AC unit

Same hole just different angle, you can see the electric panels in the back round.

[dogfinn]

We are jumping around a liitle so have patience, these pics are kinda random.

New electric panels are in DC on the right and AC on the left.

The start of the galley. Stove goes next to fridge with Stainless on the walls. looking front to back.

galley looking back to front.

[dogfinn]

I had never built a cabinet so this is my first one..... little different working in a bus or a boat as nothing is level or square.

Face frame looking from front to back.

face frame looking from bathroom.

looking from back to front.

We could write so many stories of the trials and tribulations but that would be boring, build, check, tear out and rebuild. Oh that LP pipe is in the way of the drawer closing, etc.

[lornaschinske]

You could have made things a little easier if you had built the toe kick (out of 2X4's), attached that to the floor (leveling the toe kick), then built the cabinet carcase and set the boxes on top of the toe kick.

My suggestion to anyone who is building their cabinets: Build your cabinets out of plywood, not particle board even you you can get the high density cabinet grade particle board. Particle board is very heavy.
Free 32mm Frameless Cabinet Plans for an easy cabinet box to build. You can pocket screw a face frame to a 32mm system. The toe kick plans make installing the cabinet run very easy and you have a level flat base to attach the base cabinets to. Building the toe kick separate will also allow you to route heat/air ducts, plumbing, gas lines, electrical wiring under the cabinets. You can buy a simple hole jig from many woodworking outfits to drill your shelf pin holes. This is the one I have, it's inexpensive and takes up little space and I have used to drill shelf holes in a 24" High Wall cab up to a 84" High Tall pantry cabinet (24" deep):

Jig-It Shelving Jig comes with a self centering 1/4" bit (buy 1/4" shelf pins) OR 5mm bit (5mm shelf pins). Works on traditional framed or Euro frameless. I have both bits because I had to use some 5mm shelf pins. You can buy the drill bit systems separate from the jig. The jig will hold two bits in the black handle.

These 1/4" shelf supports have a hole in them and you can drill a matching pilot hole in the bottom of the shelf and put a screw in to hold the shelf in place. The cushions are for glass shelves. I would also recommend metal shelf support/pins over plastic ones. I've got both plastic and metal in the Class C. I can load a shelf down more with the metal than the plastic one. The plastic ones support with no problem until we travel down the road. Then they shear out of the holes.

Also you can spend a bit more $$ and buy a Veritas 32mm Cabinet System

[Accordion]

Dogfinn, Awesome job on cutting the holes for your fridge and AC. Looking great.

Do not fear the making of your cabinets. It appears that you have the brains to undertake those projects. Good job.

I LOVE your circuit breaker panel.

Thanks for the pics.

[SeanF]

Looking good!

[dogfinn]

Thanks SeanF, here are some other pics.

Driver side of bus parked across the street from my house.

Passenger side.

Now if I could just find time to paint the out side.

[dogfinn]

Well I have been working on the galley (boat) kitchen, got the drawers made and installed, layed 3/4" plywood with 1/4" durock and then tiled the counter with the same tile that went in the bathroom, 1" x 1" glass tile. Nancy, the wife likes it so that must mean that I did ok. just need to grout and move on to the next thing....pretty cold out in the bus and gets dark very early so its a little tougher to get motivated to go out and work.

here a re a few pics of the process that we have made.

freshly made drawers and handles.

You can see in this pic our planned kitchen sink in the cupboard below where it will go.... we bought this SS pan at a resturant supply store for $19.00, drill a hole and deform the bottom a liitle so it drains towards the hole and you have a sink, same thing I did in the bathroom sink out of a SS bowl.

[dogfinn]

kitchen after we put down the tile and before grouting

Stove in place and kitchen sipgot put in to see how it looks, now to grout.

[Diesel Dan]

Kitchen looks great! Are you planning some sort of backsplash for the corner surrounding the stove? I know the window gets in the way of a backsplash behind the sink, but I would at least put some quarter round or something to seal the crack between the counter and the wall so water doesn't get in there.

[dogfinn]

dan, it will be chalked and sealed after grouting and yes on the backsplash, either stainless or i might tile up a few inches 6" ? with the same tile.... I should have raised my window just a little higher but that would have opened up a whole new can of worms with the structual members of the roof... I know smaller widow....


thanks for the compliment.


dogfinn

[dogfinn]

Tile grouted and sealed, stainless steel cut for surround around stove and working on upper cabinets. Direct and to the point, all comments are welcome.

Dogfinn

Just starting the fitting process

More fitting

And still more fitting

Soon I can post the finished galley cabinets have to get all the door fronts on .