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Old 09-28-2017, 06:49 PM   #1
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1 wire to 2

So in wiring this bus up there will be many points I will be making a T in the wiring. Preferred methods? Seems like people are not super fond of wire nuts. So the main things I've seen other than wire nuts are splitting insulation and wrapping wire in, using special connectors, using a butt splice with a big side and smaller side, or a 3 way crimp connection thing. I have a soldering gun I can use to solder connections but am just seeing what other folks think. I was thinking if I just use solder, heat shrink and dielectric grease in the heat shrink I should be good
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Old 09-28-2017, 07:38 PM   #2
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I am not sure who is not fond of wire nuts. They are used everywhere including my house. All of the other methods you mentioned will work as long as care is taken to get a good contact. Use the method you are most comfortable with.
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:26 PM   #3
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Wire nuts in a grounded box are the standard residential way to do it. Although I guess plastic boxes are becoming very common, it seems like a better idea to give the wires something to short to if there is a fault so your breakers/fuses can do their job. I do worry a bit about the effects of vibration seen in a mobile application. Crimped insulated spade connectors seem to be the way most D.C. Mobile wiring is done, using stranded rather than solid conductors. I think heat shrink over the connection is still a good idea. Putting the joints in a grounded box is also probably a good idea.


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Old 09-28-2017, 09:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JA Savage View Post
I am not sure who is not fond of wire nuts. They are used everywhere including my house. All of the other methods you mentioned will work as long as care is taken to get a good contact. Use the method you are most comfortable with.
Well, no one who does auto-electrics is fond of wire-nuts. They hold well on solid wires, not so well on stranded wire, and they are a lazy answer.

Solder, tape, heat-shrink. You don't need the grease. If you need a waterproof connection use the heat-shrink with a glued interior. It costs a bit more but is waterproof.

For tapping into low-current circuits, Posi-Taps work extremely well at about $1 per joint.
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Old 09-28-2017, 09:43 PM   #5
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House wiring makes a number of assumptions that are not true in buses. In vehicle applications, you really should be using stranded wire, and terminations designed for stranded wire. Solid wire is prone to work hardening and failing in vibration environments, usually whee it's stressed by connectors. I'd be looking at crimp style three way splice connectors (West Marine has good ones), and find a way to support the connections after they're crimped with zip ties to the structure.
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:33 AM   #6
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wire nuts on stranded wire isnt ideal.. as mentioned they are designed for solid wire.. if you install and then remove a wire nut on hom,e wiring, you'll notice the nut actually "cuts threads" into the wires.. so they dont pull out. with stranded wire it just spins the wires together and during vibration, said wires will move and the nut can loosen.. you can tape over a wire nut to help lessen that ..

I like crimped spade terminals (using as real crimp tool not needle nose pliers!).. of course like any fastener those can vibrate loose over time.. the big thing is to secure the wiring connections where you make them.. so dont let connections hang in free air where either of the wires are under any kind of weight / tension..
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Old 09-29-2017, 09:17 AM   #7
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I hate wire nuts, and ended up going with Wago lever nuts, they work really well and are easy to connect, disconnect, and re-use.

Wago Lever Nuts | eBay


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Old 09-29-2017, 10:52 AM   #8
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New to me

I'd never use a wire nut on a vehicle- I don't even like them in houses. How many times have you pulled a light fixture and the connections just fall apart? I know they stay when done properly, but I'm shocked (pun) how many 'electricians' do them wrong.

The coachbuilder who built my bus used a connector I haven't seen before, but love. They have a crimp connector for positive (pun#2) bond, but they have a rubber boot that slips over the crimp. I like them because you can non-destructively remove the boot to inspect a joint.

Wrap-Cap 415 Insulator for Model 408 and 410 Crimp Connectors by Ideal Ind.

crimp 2.JPG

ideal 415 2.png
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Old 09-29-2017, 01:03 PM   #9
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If my soldering was good enough for an F-15(ex navy AT2) electronics landing and launching from a carrier, then I am sure it will suffice for a bus. I cant see anything short of a head on with a semi comming close to the vibrations and g-forces those planes go through. So, I will be soldering/ heat shrink tube all low current connections. Anything with 10 amps or more on DC side will be using a terminal for connections. I do however try to "homerun" EVERY wire for each and every item(even lights). They get labeled on both ends with ptouch and I never worry about them again.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:57 AM   #10
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EricW. What is the electrical requirement for the "T"s.
LED lighting could be soldered but anything with current should have a mechanical connector or even better yet its own run back to the fuse panel
AND PLEASE USE FUSES
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