Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-28-2017, 05:49 PM   #1
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
1 wire to 2

So in wiring this bus up there will be many points I will be making a T in the wiring. Preferred methods? Seems like people are not super fond of wire nuts. So the main things I've seen other than wire nuts are splitting insulation and wrapping wire in, using special connectors, using a butt splice with a big side and smaller side, or a 3 way crimp connection thing. I have a soldering gun I can use to solder connections but am just seeing what other folks think. I was thinking if I just use solder, heat shrink and dielectric grease in the heat shrink I should be good
EricW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2017, 06:38 PM   #2
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 161
Year: 1993
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: GMC
Rated Cap: 42
I am not sure who is not fond of wire nuts. They are used everywhere including my house. All of the other methods you mentioned will work as long as care is taken to get a good contact. Use the method you are most comfortable with.
JA Savage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2017, 07:26 PM   #3
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 228
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: AARE 3903
Engine: Cummins 8.3L 12v
Rated Cap: 78
Wire nuts in a grounded box are the standard residential way to do it. Although I guess plastic boxes are becoming very common, it seems like a better idea to give the wires something to short to if there is a fault so your breakers/fuses can do their job. I do worry a bit about the effects of vibration seen in a mobile application. Crimped insulated spade connectors seem to be the way most D.C. Mobile wiring is done, using stranded rather than solid conductors. I think heat shrink over the connection is still a good idea. Putting the joints in a grounded box is also probably a good idea.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
miscrms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2017, 08:27 PM   #4
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Originally Posted by JA Savage View Post
I am not sure who is not fond of wire nuts. They are used everywhere including my house. All of the other methods you mentioned will work as long as care is taken to get a good contact. Use the method you are most comfortable with.
Well, no one who does auto-electrics is fond of wire-nuts. They hold well on solid wires, not so well on stranded wire, and they are a lazy answer.

Solder, tape, heat-shrink. You don't need the grease. If you need a waterproof connection use the heat-shrink with a glued interior. It costs a bit more but is waterproof.

For tapping into low-current circuits, Posi-Taps work extremely well at about $1 per joint.
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2017, 08:43 PM   #5
Lensman's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 34
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: 35' Low Floor
Engine: Cummins ISM CM570
Rated Cap: 32+53
House wiring makes a number of assumptions that are not true in buses. In vehicle applications, you really should be using stranded wire, and terminations designed for stranded wire. Solid wire is prone to work hardening and failing in vibration environments, usually whee it's stressed by connectors. I'd be looking at crimp style three way splice connectors (West Marine has good ones), and find a way to support the connections after they're crimped with zip ties to the structure.
Lensman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2017, 07:33 AM   #6
Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 9,792
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
wire nuts on stranded wire isnt ideal.. as mentioned they are designed for solid wire.. if you install and then remove a wire nut on hom,e wiring, you'll notice the nut actually "cuts threads" into the wires.. so they dont pull out. with stranded wire it just spins the wires together and during vibration, said wires will move and the nut can loosen.. you can tape over a wire nut to help lessen that ..

I like crimped spade terminals (using as real crimp tool not needle nose pliers!).. of course like any fastener those can vibrate loose over time.. the big thing is to secure the wiring connections where you make them.. so dont let connections hang in free air where either of the wires are under any kind of weight / tension..
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2017, 08:17 AM   #7
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
I hate wire nuts, and ended up going with Wago lever nuts, they work really well and are easy to connect, disconnect, and re-use.

Wago Lever Nuts | eBay

Piersg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2017, 09:52 AM   #8
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
New to me

I'd never use a wire nut on a vehicle- I don't even like them in houses. How many times have you pulled a light fixture and the connections just fall apart? I know they stay when done properly, but I'm shocked (pun) how many 'electricians' do them wrong.

The coachbuilder who built my bus used a connector I haven't seen before, but love. They have a crimp connector for positive (pun#2) bond, but they have a rubber boot that slips over the crimp. I like them because you can non-destructively remove the boot to inspect a joint.

Wrap-Cap® 415 Insulator for Model 408 and 410 Crimp Connectors by Ideal Ind.

crimp 2.JPG

ideal 415 2.png
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2017, 12:03 PM   #9
Bus Nut
Defjr333's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Culpeper, Virginia
Posts: 279
Chassis: Shuttle or Shorty. Still hunting
Engine: Prefer Diesel
Rated Cap: 14 to 24 pref
If my soldering was good enough for an F-15(ex navy AT2) electronics landing and launching from a carrier, then I am sure it will suffice for a bus. I cant see anything short of a head on with a semi comming close to the vibrations and g-forces those planes go through. So, I will be soldering/ heat shrink tube all low current connections. Anything with 10 amps or more on DC side will be using a terminal for connections. I do however try to "homerun" EVERY wire for each and every item(even lights). They get labeled on both ends with ptouch and I never worry about them again.
Defjr333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2017, 06:57 AM   #10
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vermont
Posts: 5
Year: 2002
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: ?
Rated Cap: 71
EricW. What is the electrical requirement for the "T"s.
LED lighting could be soldered but anything with current should have a mechanical connector or even better yet its own run back to the fuse panel
Trout is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:31 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.