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Old 10-01-2015, 09:55 AM   #1
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$15 soda blaster

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/

I am going to try and build one of these in the next few days and see how it works in the areas I cant get to behind the ribs where insulation was packed.

Has anybody tried this simple diy setup?
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:15 PM   #2
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Interesting, that would take a lot of soda I think, especially since it wont be filtered back into tha holding tank, update the post after and let us know how it works
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:32 PM   #3
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I like it. I might try it too when I get the inside skin off and the floors up. But I am wondering if you could make the nozzle end smaller to increase the power of the blast.
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:43 PM   #4
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To my understanding soda blasting is generally used on metal that is thin, so you don't risk deforming or pitting the surface.

Being the soda is way more money than sand, I see no reason to use it on the interior of a skoolie.

IMO sand would work better.

However I would love to see how it all works out. Please share pics.

Nat
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:49 PM   #5
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I have such a small area to do I am not worried about cost of the media. Silica sand is nasty as we know and it will not dissolve and wash away like soda, we don't need anything on the inside of to come in contact with sand.

Just got the nozzle, now we need to round up tube and bucket.
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:27 PM   #6
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I made one up once. To clean up stained bike carbs. Meh at best.
Looking at the video, the piece wasn't THAT dirty -and he had to shoot it so close and take a long time for a sq inch. Coulda spent 15 seconds with a wire wheel.
My results were the same. I went thru a box of Arm+ Hammer in about a minute. And not much to show for it except a lotta dust.
Its not strong enough to de-rust steel.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwarf36 View Post
I made one up once. To clean up stained bike carbs. Meh at best.
Looking at the video, the piece wasn't THAT dirty -and he had to shoot it so close and take a long time for a sq inch. Coulda spent 15 seconds with a wire wheel.
My results were the same. I went thru a box of Arm+ Hammer in about a minute. And not much to show for it except a lotta dust.
Its not strong enough to de-rust steel.

Good to know. Although a wire wheel leaves a different finish, it is effective.

Ill build one either way because even if I cant use it for rust I am curious to try it on anodized aluminum. The article says it will leave the anodizing which would be great for cleaning motorcycle hubs without unlacing the wheel etc.

I am skeptical of the idea of recapturing the soda because from what l have read the media fragments on contact, so it would just become so fine that it will do nothing but create dust. Who knows maybe you could use it a few times.

Hopefully I will have it rigged up today. I want to experiment on my nasty looking window frames. I also read that it doesn't harm glass or rubber. If I can make it work without wasting tons of soda I will be happy. Ill post results soon.
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:18 PM   #8
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My next door neighbor is using soda to strip a 67 Chevy truck, very slow going and using a lot of it
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Old 03-04-2017, 10:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
To my understanding soda blasting is generally used on metal that is thin, so you don't risk deforming or pitting the surface.

Being the soda is way more money than sand, I see no reason to use it on the interior of a skoolie.

IMO sand would work better.

However I would love to see how it all works out. Please share pics.

Nat
If you are going to use silica sand, wear a respirator!
Blasting of any sort, even in an outdoor or well ventilated area should have at the very least a respirator.
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Old 03-05-2017, 10:25 AM   #10
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The other issue with soda is that unless the work is thoroughly washed and every bit of the soda removed...it causes big problems with any paint that follows. Issue are most common in nooks and crannies where it is hard to reach.
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