50 amp inlet receptacle

[772ark]

Probably not the right first step but the one I'm thinking of doing. I want to install a 50 amp inlet receptacle to the outside of the bus and a temporary fuse box inside so I'll have power for my tools inside as I work, plus have lights, fan, and anything else I need. Question is where should I install it? I know drivers side and the back half, but should it be in the skin below the floor where the back is open to the weather then run the wire up through the floor or should I mount it above the floor and go straight into the body where everything will be dry.

Skoolie - Felix the Escapoloigist's Bus

[Robin97396]

Two threads? You're really looking for an answer.

From what I've seen most RVs have a hatch about half way back where you pull the RV cord out to either plug in directly to the camp power or to match up with a heavy duty extension. And yes, it seems like it could short out if the connection was wet.

I wired fuse boxes in modular homes but do not consider myself to be an electrician. Someone else should weigh in here with the particulars.

[772ark]

Two threads, yes sorry about that out the first one in and though I did it wrong cause it did not show up so I redid it. Don't know how to remove the other one.

[roach711]

Campground power panels are usually at the back of the site. If you just want temporary power why not just run an extension cord out a window?

I've got one of these power inlets on the back of our bus:

30 Amp 125V Boat Power Inlet

[opus]

Originally Posted by 772ark

Two threads, yes sorry about that out the first one in and though I did it wrong cause it did not show up so I redid it. Don't know how to remove the other one.

Yes, welcome to the forum where you cant delete your own posts. [sigh]

[family wagon]

Mounting an inlet in the skirt below the floor isn't a problem per se, but it does imply that you need water-tight construction techniques. That hardware often costs more. The inlet face itself needs to be water-tight when closed regardless of whether it's above or below the floor line because it always faces outside.

Like Robin says, often there's a large storage box built into the wall so that the shore power cord can be stowed right there when not in use. No inlet connector is necessary in this case because the shore power cable can be terminated directly into the breaker panel (or transfer switch if applicable). But if you didn't want to have that storage box for whatever reason, a marine-style inlet connector in the surface with an extension cord stored elsewhere is a fine approach too. Members on skoolie.net before you have done it both ways.

[turf]

why do you need a 50 amp temporary panel?

that would be for running an AC and multiple tools.

one person, one power tool..... a 15/20 amp extension cord is just fine. even if you have a 50 amp connection next to your parking spot, the money to make that into a temp panel and a hole in your bus is wasted.

50amp is 2 hots, a neutral and a ground (4 wires). until you are running air in the bus....its overkill. you likely never use half of the capacity of what your wanting to build.

any electric connections are going to have to be inside some sort of box and water proof. so the fitting you buy probably determines if its under the skirt or inside the bus.

[Robin97396]

I'm going to mount a box for electrical in a portion of the skirt where there isn't room for anything else. Power will come up through the floor into a small breaker box.

I'd like to assemble a battery bank that would charge off of the 110 volt system or the vehicle charging system while traveling, but the cost of batteries is ridiculous not to mention the added weight. It might be easier to rig up a stationary bike to a generator.

[772ark]

Thank you Robin97396, I was meaning the inside fuse box was going to be a temporary panel, for just two 20amp plugs and I'd be using one at a time or maybe using the 2ed one for just a fan. I was manly talking about the 50 amp inlet receptacle, I want 50 amp in the end and figured I'd put the right plug in to begin with.

[Robin97396]

Yeah I understand that. 50 amp service is the next step above 30 amp service. I also want 50 amp service, but I don't understand why you keep saying temporary or you don't plan on needing power once your build is finished?

[772ark]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

I don't understand why you keep saying temporary or you don't plan on needing power once your build is finished?

The 50amp plug-in I want to install on the outside is going to be permanent and will stay where I put it, I don't want to put more holes in the outside skin then I need to, so I won't be moving it. But on the inside I'll be tearing out the bus wall and floor then insulating and building the inside. Once I get the inside framed in I'll be permanent mounting an "inverter-converter-charger" plus main power panel So I'll have the power I want. HOWEVER for now I just want a small movable fuse box inside so I can have power to run my tools Most people I know call it a "spider power box" that is what will be temporary for the near future.

[turf]

this is what you are asking for:

Marinco (6152SPPRV-25) 25' 50-Amp Cordset – The RV Parts House

and this

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...CVQQ8wII6QIwBQ

[772ark]

No, the one I was looking at was a little bit more robust and commercial grade But the question I was asking was where do you install it, as in below the floor line where it's open to the elements on the back or above the floor line into the sealed body of the bus. I know it's on the driver side in the back half , I will be using 4 gage wire once again overkill. But once again it's An above or below the floor line installation point question.

[turf]

it depends on the what you buy. the one pictured would go above the floor as the back of that plug does not look weather tight.

i'd install a deep electrical box extender on the inside of the bus and transition to conduit from the extender box to your breaker box.

then you can install breakers and add the 15A plugins as needed.

if you had a weather tight plug and installed under the skirt, you could go go up to the floor with more cord, but then into conduit and to the same breaker panel as before.

my 20 amp battery charger is wired through the skirt and up through the floor.

[roach711]

Most just install the inlet on the outer body at the rear of the bus. My Marinco inlet is weather proof and works real well. It's designed for marine use.

[turf]

FTLS - Electrical Distribution

[roach711]

Originally Posted by turf

FTLS - Electrical Distribution

Nice link.

Also, be aware that in a bus/RV application your breaker box should be a "branch box" with separate neutral and ground bus bars. The neutrals and grounds should only come together at the main (shore power) panel.

[turf]

just for fun

here's most of the rest of the parts needed after the vehicle plug

the load center box

Square D Homeline 100 Amp 20-Space 40-Circuit Indoor Main Plug-On Neutral Breaker Load Center with Cover - Value Pack-HOM2040M100PCVP - The Home Depot

with a couple of these breakers, 1 for main, 1 for your spyder connection

Square D Homeline 50 Amp 2-Pole Circuit Breaker-HOM250CP - The Home Depot

and this for a 110 plug circuit

Square D Homeline 20 Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker-HOM120CP - The Home Depot

and an outlet for your spyder

50 Amp 125/250-Volt NEMA 14-50R Flush Mount Power Outlet - Black-3894CC6 - The Home Depot


and just a 110 outlet

Leviton 20 Amp 125-Volt Duplex Self-Test GFCI Outlet - White-R12-GFNT2-0RW - The Home Depot


add in boxes, conduit, fittings and wire

[roach711]

That load center looks like it has the combined neutral/ground bar. You want separate bars. A main breaker is redundant - the shore power panel breaker (or unplugging) is your main disconnect.

Your inlet should be a male plug, not a female. With that inlet you'll have to make an extension cord with two male ends. If someone happens to plug into shore power first the male prongs on the bus end will be hot and easy to grab on to. I'd recommend a twist lock inlet that matches existing RV extension cords (like the Marinco).

[Robin97396]

An extension cord like that would sure be good for poking people.

Yeah, not many friends around.