Beefing up the T444 Engine

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

my bus came from texas and no EBPV.. I live in ohio... I dont have a block heater but I have great batteries, 8 good glow plugs and plug relay.. I start the bus easily down to minus 10.. I let it idle a couople minutes in which the 444E auto kicks to 900 RPM after the oil pressure raises to above 25 for about 5 seconds.. then you can program CAP into your computer in which after 5 minutes of no pedal activity and in neutral the engine will self idle up to 1400 RPM and then back down as it reaches near 175 degrees f coolant...



literally though I rarely idle it long enough when I start out for CAP to engage.. the 900 for a minute or 2 then I take off... once I see about 100-105 I kick the heater fans on and as I get down the hoghway it warms quickly.. I see no need for the EBPV.. maybe it warms quicker? I dont know but seems like mine warms up pretty good esp if I get on the freeway... takes a little longer in stop N go with all my heaters on..
-Christopher

" I see no need for the EBPV.. maybe it warms quicker?" It's not good to push (VERY COLD) boost to a cold engine so this not only helps it to warm up but keeps you from having boost till the engine is up to a safe temp for it.
It can be annoying but if you are like me and cut off the exhaust, when the EBPV is closed man does the exhaust get so much louder, sounds like a jet. I have't hacked off the exhaust on the bus yet but I do to every F series 7.3 I've owned and just had the down pipe that came out near the trans bell housing. No muffler gives slight lower EGTs.

The EBPV does cause a very minor bit of restriction so the theory is you will get a little more air flow with it deleted.
Yeah they leak, but they are easy to rebuild (I have a video on YT rebuilding one), kit cost under $100 for what little it needs. So easy my 7 year old did most of the reassembly.
Pulling the turbo will go way easier on a bus than the trucks I've pulled turbos on that is for sure.

I don't know if I will wire mine up in the bus for a brake, my trans has a retarder on it and that does a pretty decent job.

Hey Chris, have you ever changed out the out put shaft seal on a MD3060? I'm going to have to do mine and the blame pinion shaft seal on the rear as well. Atleast that is all the leaks I have to deal with.

Yall have a good day!

[cadillackid]

ive changed the seal on a 1000 and a 545, a seal installer seal is pretty much a must.. you can drill a hole in a flat board and tap on that to get the seal in but if its not 100% straight it will leak..


your boost charge isnt going to warm up much with the intercooler being wide open to the -10f weather.. Maybe the intake pipe warms it a little? but really most engines try not to heat the boost that just was cooled by the intercooler..



agreed on any engine that you shouldnt just go out and Stomp it when its cold.. my driv to the freeway is some warmup time for the oil especially.. if im at a hotel right off the freeway i generally idle and warm up the bus while im getting my stuff packed in and ready to go which helps warm it up..



my bus came stock without the EBPV and im not planning to put one on.. I AM planning to put on my webasto heater thats now 3 years in my garage brand new in the box... the "connected-bus" project will allow me to remote start it from my phone so that will take care of warming my engine where the EBPV will really be of no use.
-Christopher

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

ive changed the seal on a 1000 and a 545, a seal installer seal is pretty much a must.. you can drill a hole in a flat board and tap on that to get the seal in but if its not 100% straight it will leak..


your boost charge isnt going to warm up much with the intercooler being wide open to the -10f weather.. Maybe the intake pipe warms it a little? but really most engines try not to heat the boost that just was cooled by the intercooler..



agreed on any engine that you shouldnt just go out and Stomp it when its cold.. my driv to the freeway is some warmup time for the oil especially.. if im at a hotel right off the freeway i generally idle and warm up the bus while im getting my stuff packed in and ready to go which helps warm it up..



my bus came stock without the EBPV and im not planning to put one on.. I AM planning to put on my webasto heater thats now 3 years in my garage brand new in the box... the "connected-bus" project will allow me to remote start it from my phone so that will take care of warming my engine where the EBPV will really be of no use.
-Christopher

Yeah I've got a set to install the seals....
"your boost charge isnt going to warm up much with the intercooler" I didn't mean it would.
"agreed on any engine that you shouldnt just go out and Stomp it when its cold.." Right and boosted air that is really cold just makes it even more harsh.

I got a security system that has remote start and just rigged it so that the bus won't start unless you hit the "lock" button, no power to ECM LOL
I haven't gotten it complete yet (life story there) but one day LOL.
It controls lights as well, since I don't have any electronic locks on doors I used that feature to control other relays.
It has a remote that will tell you what doors are open and after hacking the wires out for the door trips I rewired them to that thing so I can see on the remote if a door opens. It's only good for 100-200' though.
I'm so old school I still have a dumb phone and use Windows 2k3 standard LOL.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by PatrickBaptist

Yeah I've got a set to install the seals....
"your boost charge isnt going to warm up much with the intercooler" I didn't mean it would.
"agreed on any engine that you shouldnt just go out and Stomp it when its cold.." Right and boosted air that is really cold just makes it even more harsh.

I got a security system that has remote start and just rigged it so that the bus won't start unless you hit the "lock" button, no power to ECM LOL
I haven't gotten it complete yet (life story there) but one day LOL.
It controls lights as well, since I don't have any electronic locks on doors I used that feature to control other relays.
It has a remote that will tell you what doors are open and after hacking the wires out for the door trips I rewired them to that thing so I can see on the remote if a door opens. It's only good for 100-200' though.
I'm so old school I still have a dumb phone and use Windows 2k3 standard LOL.

one of my Home automation servers is still running on 2k3 standard.. slowly im migrating it over to the newer version of the Home automation software that runs on 10 pro.. that 2k3 VM is rock stable... i reboot it maybe twice a year at most..

-Christopher

[Joe45]

Just realized I've been assuming my bus has an EBPV contraption. It was a Phoenix area bus, so it never saw even close to freezing temperatures. I'm hoping they left that out!



Gonna have to look at it and see. What's the easiest way to tell if it has, or has not, one of those EBPV things?

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by Joe45

Just realized I've been assuming my bus has an EBPV contraption. It was a Phoenix area bus, so it never saw even close to freezing temperatures. I'm hoping they left that out!



Gonna have to look at it and see. What's the easiest way to tell if it has, or has not, one of those EBPV things?

Look at where the exhaust connects to the turbo, if there is a linkage at the end of the turbo output OR look at the pedestal in front and if it has wires going to a solenoid into the pedestal then it has a EBPV.
The atual valve is on the turbo and a linkage goes between the valve and an actuator (which is usually what leaks).
This doesn't do anything for the Orings that leak on the top and bottom (2 small and 2 large) of the pedestal. So even without a EBPV, the pedestal can still leak.
IF you ever rebuild yours DO NOT USE A HONE ON IT, it will damage it and the new actuator will not seal good enough and it will leak again. Just clean it up best you can without scuffing or scratching where the big spring is and you will be fine.

[Johnny Mullet]

The EBPV would be directly under the turbo and the rod would be attached to the turbo outlet........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgOET6m_0Jg

[cadillackid]

Johnny has it right, on mine I just have a pedestal that the turbo sits on with no wires or actuator rods, don’t confuse it with a turbo wastegate, which came on the HO versions of the 444e and on all versions for late 02+
The wastegate is on top of the turbo if you have one. The EBPV is under it if you have one.
Christopher

[Joe45]

Thanks pards! Good info!

I'll take a look and maybe post a photo asap.

[PatrickBaptist]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

one of my Home automation servers is still running on 2k3 standard.. slowly im migrating it over to the newer version of the Home automation software that runs on 10 pro.. that 2k3 VM is rock stable... i reboot it maybe twice a year at most..

-Christopher

What you said W2k3 is rock stable, I use it on a older laptop, boots fast everything loads fast. It supports the quad core CPUs still so works great for me.