Best countertop?

[sdHeights]

This has worked well so far - 3/4 ply, doubled on edge, epoxy coated. It's light, but probably more delicate than butchers block style.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by BeeLDub

Bottle caps!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BULSAMdD...areoffcentered

...not really. But they look cool!

I was thinking about bottle caps!

[Ronnie]

We did ceder, with table top epoxy on the counter top and marine varnish on everything else.

[gs1949]

I intend to use wood for countertops. Cedar looks nice, but it is pretty soft, and would dent if anything heavier was ever dropped on it. I think a harder wood would be better. I'm thinking salvaged planks of old growth, edge grain, Douglas Fir, which will be expensive, but not that difficult to find around here

[Ronnie]

Ceder is a bit soft. I like and we have plenty of it. The table (bar) top epoxy is meant for uses like this and can be coated very thick and give a bit of dent resistance. Although I would prefer not to test it too much.

For those who do epoxy coat wood ALWAYS do both sides. Otherwise there is a tendency to warp. Completely sealing the wood keeps it stable

[gs1949]

That's a very good point about sealing the entire piece of wood, including the ends, to prevent warping. But I would think that a couple of coats of spar varnish or something like that would be fine for unexposed parts. And the reason I want to use edge grain is that wood sawn that way is both less prone to warping, and a little harder so it would wear better.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

We did ceder, with table top epoxy on the counter top and marine varnish on everything else.

looks very nice

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Ceder is a bit soft. I like and we have plenty of it. The table (bar) top epoxy is meant for uses like this and can be coated very thick and give a bit of dent resistance. Although I would prefer not to test it too much.

For those who do epoxy coat wood ALWAYS do both sides. Otherwise there is a tendency to warp. Completely sealing the wood keeps it stable

good point about sealing all surfaces - you can often fox dents on wood by putting a few drops of water on the dent, then heating a spoon close to red hot then press it on the water in the dent - the finish is just porous enough for some of the steam to filter through, and the steam coupled with the heat is often enough to pop the dent out ( SSSHHHH, I'm giving away trade secrets that can be worth a lot of money when fixing someone's prized concert piano )

[Ronnie]

I will have to give that a try.

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

We did ceder, with table top epoxy on the counter top and marine varnish on everything else.

Beauty, eh!

[joeblack5]

I bend this up from a SS sheet out of a commercial kitchen. was a pain to remove the glue on the back. The stainless hood was retro fitted with a normal box fan an vented to the outside. I like this SS because it is magnetic and so it is easy to attach hooks.



This is above the wheel well, the other side has the sink.


johan

[HappyInTN]

Originally Posted by joeblack5

I bend this up from a SS sheet out of a commercial kitchen. was a pain to remove the glue on the back. The stainless hood was retro fitted with a normal box fan an vented to the outside. I like this SS because it is magnetic and so it is easy to attach hooks.



This is above the wheel well, the other side has the sink.


johan

bet the upkeep on that is easy. Very durable.

[Yukon Cornelius]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

We did ceder, with table top epoxy on the counter top and marine varnish on everything else.

Beauty, outstanding craftsmanship as always

[Yukon Cornelius]

Originally Posted by gs1949

That's a very good point about sealing the entire piece of wood, including the ends, to prevent warping. But I would think that a couple of coats of spar varnish or something like that would be fine for unexposed parts. And the reason I want to use edge grain is that wood sawn that way is both less prone to warping, and a little harder so it would wear better.

In my experience large pieces of end/edge grain are a bit less prone to warping, but still tend too. However they are fairly prone to cracks or splits when larger than your average cutting board. Sealing both sides will definitely help to prevent this.

I would be Seven Shades of Savage if I spent the amount of time that an end grain counter would take, and then drove down the road and had it split. What size chunks are you thinking?

[Yukon Cornelius]

My countertop in progress

[musigenesis]

This looks great.

[gs1949]

Yes, that does look very good. What kind of wood do you have in there?

I was thinking of using salvaged, old-growth 2X10s, but I have given up on that idea after seeing how much that will cost.

[Yukon Cornelius]

Originally Posted by gs1949

Yes, that does look very good. What kind of wood do you have in there?

I was thinking of using salvaged, old-growth 2X10s, but I have given up on that idea after seeing how much that will cost.

It's a block of Maple that began it's life as a shuffleboard table, by the time I milled it down true it's now a 2 5/8" thick.
It wasn't deep enough to cover the entire cabinet, so I added some walnut to the front face. Which ironically is the only fancy lumber I've had to pay for thus far for the bus, everything else (fir beams, oak floor, cabinets, oak panelling, birch live edge, etc) has been scrounged or traded.

[Drew Bru]

Originally Posted by Yukon Cornelius

It's a block of Maple that began it's life as a shuffleboard table, by the time I milled it down true it's now a 2 5/8" thick.

Damn, that's not a countertop that's a workbench! Put a vise on the front edge and you're good to go. Looking great, man.

[gs1949]

Yes, that looks awesome.