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Old 01-25-2019, 12:43 AM   #1
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Black Goo Removal

I may have discovered the secret of the goo. You know the black gooey adhesive that is generously used by bluebird to stick the fiber glass in the walls and ceiling. I tried a test spot using some naphtha degreaser and it worked but makes a mess and would be painfully slow. I tried heating with a heat gun, again a gooey mess.

Then I thought "What if it was cold?" Right now it is 3*f outside. Using a small ball peen hammer I lightly tapped on the frozen goo. After a little tapping it breaks off in nice little chunks leaving the paint underneath undamaged and mostly clean. It doesn't seem to be leaving any reverse hail dents or causing damage to the exterior paint either.

When I have time I am going to pick up some dry ice and see if making it really cold might make it easier still. I also want to see if I can get a needle scaler to work at a low enough pressure to not tear up the interior paint.

I know "pictures or it didn't happen". Below is what I removed in about 30 sec of cautious tapping. Scraping with a metal putty knife worked too but it scratched up the paint.

Ted
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:18 AM   #2
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Ward had a crazy asphalt-based goo. I spent 6 months removing it and the rust underneath.

Good job man!
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:58 AM   #3
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Believe it or not, that's a sound deadener. Causes the sheet metal to vibrate less. Kinda like the stuff they put on stainless steel sinks. Along with various other things, I'm actually thinking of doing spray on bed liner when the walls are stripped. When I get a bus that is. The quieter the better.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:18 AM   #4
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Believe it or not, that's a sound deadener. Causes the sheet metal to vibrate less. Kinda like the stuff they put on stainless steel sinks. Along with various other things, I'm actually thinking of doing spray on bed liner when the walls are stripped. When I get a bus that is. The quieter the better.
It also does a great job of collecting condensation between it and the metal over time. At least on old Wards.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:02 AM   #5
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My concern is that spray foam won't stick to the goo very well or it might eventually separate from the metal. Also as ECCB mentioned rust might be hidden underneath or leave the potential to rust. I think the 2.5" to 3" of spray foam I plan on adding should take care of the sound deadening.

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Old 01-25-2019, 10:05 AM   #6
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Different "goo" seems to have been used over the years. My '46 had a layer of asphalteum on the floor and it was almost perfectly rust free.


Also a royal beotch to get off for painting!
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:11 AM   #7
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Different "goo" seems to have been used over the years. My '46 had a layer of asphalteum on the floor and it was almost perfectly rust free.


Also a royal beotch to get off for painting!
I think it would work better on floors than ceilings!
Man that's some nasty stuff to remove.
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:40 PM   #8
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I got back to goo removal today. Unfortunately (not really) I was on a ski trip a couple weeks ago and missed the night time lows of -22*F at home.

I picked up some dry ice blocks and denatured alcohol. First I sprayed the wall with alcohol and then used magnets to hold the blocks on the wall.The alcohol helps conduct the heat from the wall to the dry ice more quickly and lubricates the scraper. I used 2 blocks so each area had twice the time to cool as it took to scrape an area. I was able to get most of the goo off the panels below the windows in a few hours. It took a total of 20lbs
of dry ice ($24) and about a half gallon of alcohol ($5)

I scraped as far down into the pocket behind the chair rail as I could reach. I'll either come back to the pockets with a longer scraper or hit it with naphtha. When I get a warm day and all the alcohol is evaporated/ventilated I'll clean up the scrapings with a shop vac. I'll finish up by wiping the goo residue with some naptha.

Here is a video of how well it works. Its faster when you can use your other hand to press the scraper toward the wall instead of holding a phone to video.

https://youtu.be/vDCDf60qr4s

Next up will be the ceiling. I'm going to pick up some stronger magents that have threaded rod so I can drill holes in my dry ice blocks and attach them to the magnets with fender washers and wing nuts.

Ted
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:30 AM   #9
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WHAT FER? THATS PUT ON TO HELP WITH SOUND DEADENING ISNT IT I MAY BE WRONG?
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:37 AM   #10
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Here in maine we use roofing tar and spray over it with acrylic enamel best rust proofing you can get if its stays soft and pliable
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:39 AM   #11
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WHAT FER? THATS PUT ON TO HELP WITH SOUND DEADENING ISNT IT I MAY BE WRONG?
It can trap moisture between it and the metal. Seen it myself.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:28 AM   #12
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It can trap moisture between it and the metal. Seen it myself.
BB painted the sheeting where they put the goo. I havn't found much rust there. I am finding rust under the goo on the welds between the ribs and horizontal members.

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Old 02-18-2019, 10:00 AM   #13
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WHAT FER? THATS PUT ON TO HELP WITH SOUND DEADENING ISNT IT I MAY BE WRONG?
My concern is rust hidden under it. I plan on painting the interior when I get it cleaned up. Also I plan on spray foaming and don't want to risk it not sticking to the goo or the goo separating from the metal with the extra weight of the foam.

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Old 02-18-2019, 12:24 PM   #14
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BB painted the sheeting where they put the goo. I havn't found much rust there. I am finding rust under the goo on the welds between the ribs and horizontal members.

Ted
Ward didn't paint so I had a TON of work getting the tar off, dealing with all the rust, then painting.
And man- THE ugliest welds I've seen were the factory ones on that bus!
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Old 02-18-2019, 05:36 PM   #15
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It can trap moisture between it and the metal. Seen it myself.

Yes it can and does!! Very glad I removed it on mine. By the way, by far the easiest and neatest to clean up afterward is stripping it off using an oscillating multi-tool with a scraper blade. Slices off like a dream.


I bought this one and it was worth every penny!!


https://www.harborfreight.com/Variab...ool-63113.html
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:24 PM   #16
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Yes it can and does!! Very glad I removed it on mine. By the way, by far the easiest and neatest to clean up afterward is stripping it off using an oscillating multi-tool with a scraper blade. Slices off like a dream.


I bought this one and it was worth every penny!!


https://www.harborfreight.com/Variab...ool-63113.html
Good idea. My buddy has one I could borrow and try.

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Old 08-13-2019, 11:01 PM   #17
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WD40 is your friend.

I tried an oscillating tool and it would only work if it is over 100 *f in the bus or if you soften it with a heat gun.

I tried several thinner/degreasers; naphtha, acetone, carbosol and xylene. They would dissolve the surface but would evaporate or wipe off without removing enough goo to be useful.

I tried some WD40 and it actually dissolves and softens the goo. On areas I have already scraped it melts the goo so it can be wiped off to clean metal. On the thicker spots which can be up to 1/4 inch it seems to be soaking in and softening the goo down to the metal. I've made 2 applications and will make at least one more. After applying and sitting over night the bare metal will still have a film of WD40. The surface of the goo is sticky in the thin spots and almost dry in the thicker spots.

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Old 09-26-2019, 11:28 PM   #18
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I finished scraping most of the goo today. The WD40 did soften the goo but it still had to be hot out to make much progress scraping. If the bus was in the sun on a 90*F+ day then the ceiling would get to around 140*f. At this temperature scraping was pretty easy. Problem was this year we didn't have very many 90*F days. A heat gun does work but it seems like it takes forever to heat a large enough area to accomplish much.

After trying both heating and freezing the goo. I much prefer scraping it off while cold. It comes off much better and will require less clean up with solvent. The only challenge is getting it very cold. This could only really be done in the winter on a very cold day.

Next up is clean up with solvent.

Ted
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Old 09-29-2019, 12:50 PM   #19
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I am getting the Idea that you have something different than what I am looking at. The coverage on mine is very sparse. It looks more like overspray than a proper coat. I had assumed that it was put there to hold the insulation in place while they installed the ceiling metal.
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Old 09-29-2019, 12:54 PM   #20
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I am getting the Idea that you have something different than what I am looking at. The coverage on mine is very sparse. It looks more like overspray than a proper coat. I had assumed that it was put there to hold the insulation in place while they installed the ceiling metal.
I wish mine was a light coat. Spray adheasive would have been much nicer to deal with. I filled almost 1-1/2, 5 gallon buckets when I was scraping.

Ted
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