Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-26-2018, 10:21 AM   #21
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycle61 View Post
I don't think that would be a good idea to install into a bus. It looks heavy and fragile, and I would be concerned that even if you got the base connected firmly to the bus, an accident would send a lot of old lumber airborne towards the back of your head.
It's actually not particularly heavy or fragile. It's a big hollow box. And I honestly don't see what the difference would be between installing this or, say, a refrigerator. I've also seen people build closets about this size, which they of course then have to attach to the bus. I don't really see what difference the age of the lumber is going to make in a crash.

firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:37 AM   #22
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,778
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
The armoire...

Okay, I think L brackets for the bottom will work. The leg portion of that looks pretty thick and study. use four L brackets for the bottom, we will start there.

The L bracket should be four inches long on each leg, or five inches would be even better. We, you, are going to be using mostly 1/4 bolts for this project. You will probably need someone else to help you when we do the floor bolts.

You might also use four wood screws and they are going to be bigish in the diameter and about 1 1/4" long.

use grade five hardware. for this grade 8 is useless over kill and grade 2 is just junk.

Look up on the internet how to recognize grade 2, grade 5 and grade 8 bolts. you want the stuff with three hash marks.

Let me know if you prefer the metric system and we can work that way too.

You will put two 1/4" bolts in the floor for each L bracket. Use a 5/16" to drill all the holes we will be making.

we are going to attach all the L brackets to the Armoire first. Then attach to floor, and then we will do top/ side last.

are you with me so far?

Try to find L brackets that have 1/4" holes, do not go any shorter than 4" longer we can work with.

KEEP ALL RECEIPTS. you will return all extra hard ware to keep the costs down and we may have a false start or two. Working remote can be tough todo.

I think the holes should be all in a row, some L brackets have the holes kind of in a zig zag pattern.

I think the L brackets should be about 1/8' thick metal. Steel.

we will put all four brackets inside, so you will have to work in the space where drawer goes.. tight confines.

Do you think you can work in that tight spot? If not we will rethink what we do, Is that okay for you?

How are we so far?
magnakansas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:41 AM   #23
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
Do you think you can work in that tight spot?
Yes, I think I can. Thank you, this is EXACTLY what I needed!
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:41 AM   #24
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
I'd suggest fastening it to any part of the bus it will touch.....floor, wall, etc. Preferably in as many places as possible. Since this thing is going to be right behind your seat, I'd also put a some cargo tie-down rings along the edges (top and bottom) and use cargo straps to strap that sucker in while you're moving. Easy enough to unhook when you've settled in at your campsite. Bolt the tie down rings to the ribs, ideally.
Attached Thumbnails
tie-downs.jpg  
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:42 AM   #25
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,778
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
can we have...

a picture of the space this is going to sit? Might help form a plan for attachment of upper area of armoire. did i spell that wrong?
magnakansas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:46 AM   #26
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
I agree with this. My motto is "belt and suspenders!" I would definitely also attach to the ceiling and wall just as a build in closet would be. You could remove the legs of the armoire or attach extra wood to the bottom to be able to afix it even more firmly through the floor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
I'd suggest fastening it to any part of the bus it will touch.....floor, wall, etc. Preferably in as many places as possible. Since this thing is going to be right behind your seat, I'd also put a some cargo tie-down rings along the edges (top and bottom) and use cargo straps to strap that sucker in while you're moving. Easy enough to unhook when you've settled in at your campsite. Bolt the tie down rings to the ribs, ideally.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
2martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:51 AM   #27
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
a picture of the space this is going to sit? Might help form a plan for attachment of upper area of armoire. did i spell that wrong?
I'll get a picture later today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
I'd suggest fastening it to any part of the bus it will touch.....floor, wall, etc. Preferably in as many places as possible. Since this thing is going to be right behind your seat, I'd also put a some cargo tie-down rings along the edges (top and bottom) and use cargo straps to strap that sucker in while you're moving. Easy enough to unhook when you've settled in at your campsite. Bolt the tie down rings to the ribs, ideally.
My plan was to have horizontal e-track down the entire wall, and use the cargo tie-downs that clip in to the track. My reasoning was that it would give me the flexibility to tie down pretty much anything at any point along the bus wall. In that case, it would be the track that is bolted to the vehicle. I was basing this on what I've seen in 18 wheelers that haul a lot of furniture. Does anyone use this system, and is there any reason why it wouldn't work?
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:55 AM   #28
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
My plan was to have horizontal e-track down the entire wall, and use the cargo tie-downs that clip in to the track. My reasoning was that it would give me the flexibility to tie down pretty much anything at any point along the bus wall. In that case, it would be the track that is bolted to the vehicle. I was basing this on what I've seen in 18 wheelers that haul a lot of furniture. Does anyone use this system, and is there any reason why it wouldn't work?
Had to look it up, as I didn't know what a horizontal e-track was. Looks perfect, to me. Wish I had known about such a system myself!
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 10:56 AM   #29
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
Had to look it up, as I didn't know what a horizontal e-track was. Looks perfect, to me. Wish I had known about such a system myself!
It's nice to know I know SOMETHING! Lol.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 11:19 AM   #30
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Anti tip straps similar to these would help.
Attached Thumbnails
Child-Proof-Safety-Anti-Tip-TV-Strap.png  
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 02:44 PM   #31
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,264
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by firebuild View Post
My plan was to have horizontal e-track down the entire wall, and use the cargo tie-downs that clip in to the track. My reasoning was that it would give me the flexibility to tie down pretty much anything at any point along the bus wall. In that case, it would be the track that is bolted to the vehicle. I was basing this on what I've seen in 18 wheelers that haul a lot of furniture. Does anyone use this system, and is there any reason why it wouldn't work?

I *LOVE* E-track. i have this on ... well ... *ALL* my trailers and it is infinitely useful for securing stuff. I have probably over 100 straps for it (and they come in 12', 16', and 20' lengths, for those who may need to secure larger items). I don't (yet) have any in my bus, but I do have a few pieces of E-track scraps I could cut and install. I used 1/4" bolts in my enclosed trailer and none have failed yet - and I have a tendency to really crank down my straps if needed (not so much with furniture, though). Anything strapped in will "ride like a Cadillac" and I am confident it will remain where it's supposed to even in a crash.


Use 1/4" steel rivets if you need to install in a place where you can't put a nut. Don't use aluminum rivets, as you *NEED* the extra strength of steel, as well as preventing future electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
Brad_SwiftFur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2018, 05:57 PM   #32
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 14
Use what you got!

My 10cents here:
Use what you already have!
I cut off the seat backs.
I used the existing bus seat brackets along with original nuts and bolts to fasten the seat brackets to the floor joists. I used the original bus seat clamps and original huge wood screws to fasten the couch to the seat brackets. Same with the club chair. On both pieces of furniture I used the original holes and nuts/bolts for seatbelts too.
Under the couch is sliding storage bins. Under the club chair is the fresh water tank. Which has an access panel outside.
All other furniture has the same bolted to the original floor holes and joists.
Safety first!
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20180627_183543279.jpg  
JocelynDavis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2018, 02:22 AM   #33
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by JocelynDavis View Post
All other furniture has the same bolted to the original floor holes and joists.
That does seem like the easiest way to go, if things line up right! I had to switch gears for a bit as I had a little painting crew available. I have such a compressed timeline for getting everything done I have to take help whenever I can get it, so we have been working on Buster's exterior. I will get back to the bolt-down in the next coupe of days.
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2018, 08:03 AM   #34
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,778
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
we will be here when you come back

we'll get back to it,
when you can do it.
waiting just for you
then we'll see what you can do.
Take some time to mull
how to drill some holes.
ponder nuts and bolts
a new idea can be a jolt.
I'll talk in a day or so
when we finish we'll have some joe.

william
magnakansas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2018, 04:42 PM   #35
Bus Nut
 
firebuild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: US nomadic
Posts: 556
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Lewis
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Rated Cap: 14
William, your last name wouldn't happen to be "Shakespear," would it? LOL
firebuild is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.