Brake line fix

[SharkBus]

We started running our GMC 6000 after fixing a problem with the ignition----- the engine runs beautifully, the only problem is that the brake line on the passenger side rusted and busted.

Has anyone replaced brake lines on their bus before? We are thinking of getting a roll of tubing that we can bend ourselves and then hooking it up with rubber fittings.

[crazycal]

Brake line doesn't come in rolls and what kind of rubber fittings are you talking about? You need a tubing bender and a flaring tool.

[EastCoastCB]

yep. What Cal said.

[Robin97396]

If you can, remove the old brake line and take it to an automotive store so you get the correct length, hopefully preflared. Don't make any more bends than absolutely necessary.

[Roadrunner]

Do what Robin97396 said. Don't ever use rubber fittings on brake lines. They will not hold the pressure and you will lose your brakes.

[cowlitzcoach]

Taking your old lines into a shop to get some new ones is a very good idea. That way you not only get the right length and diameter but the correct threads on the nuts on the ends.

If you do decide to make up your own and make flares on the end, make sure you put the flare nuts on the line facing the correct direction before you make the flare.

Don't ask me why that is a good idea!

[Jolly Roger]

You need to follow a lot of the reccomendation's above including the flaring tool and fittings. The manufacterer's put them together like that for a reason?
There is a short length of rubber hose/tubing at each wheel well brake attachment to provide flexibility in the steel line while going down the road.
At a minimum use the same pressure rated tubing as what you are trying to replace.
You can get 10' length of brake line tubing but you need the proper tools to work it and the correct fittings to fit your flexible lines on both ends (from steel pipe flared to flexible tubing flared to tubing pipe end (male/female) to brake caliper flare connection (male/female) standard pipe thread to flare pipe thread have different OD (outside pipe diameter) which has kicked my butt many a time! for example a 1/4" OD (outer diameter) fitting does not work with a 1/4" ID (inner diameter).
This applies to automotive tubing of any kind and refrigeration tubing for any HVAC units. For your brakes I can only suggest
Carry what you want with you and if they can't match it?
Then your looking in the wrong place?
Most auto stores can't deal with medium duty equipment/buses so you should,be talking to heavy/medium duty truck suppliers?
Talk to the ones that know your equipment (local bus barn for me ) haven't been there
Since I bought it but the want to see there 223/jolly roger when I am ready.

[Robin97396]

These days you just buy brake lines the correct length at the store.

It is possible to flare them yourself, but modern brake lines tend to split when you try to flare them. If you've got time and patience to practice flaring and bending brake lines, great, cause you can get pretty good at it with a little practice.

[Dreamer1993]

You can definitely buy brake lines in rolls 25 or 50 ft usually. Buy the Good Ni-Cop lines they don't corrode as easy. Also use flare fittings . do not use compression fittings on brake lines.

[Robin97396]

The reason break lines come in so many different lengths pre-flarred, is because this modern metal doesn't take well to being stretched with a flaring tool. With practice you can get it right, but how much does it cost to practice?

[SharkBus]

Hey everyone---- the brakeline fix went really well,

we tore out the old line as far as it had been rusted, and after taking our measurements from it, we bought lengths of copper nickel brake line that were so easy to bend the re-installation went really fast.

We bled the old brake fluid during the installation and later replaced it.

This was all in the rear tires of the bus.

We just did our best to mimic the old line, the copper nickel line was so easy to work with it felt as easy as putting together lego.
~~~~~~~
One of the short rubber tubes that we took out was completely clogged up. I imagine this is because the bus had been sitting for so long. We realized that the front brake on the driver's side was also not working.... and I think it is because this soft tube is all gunked up too---

anyways we didn't fix it right away and after taking it on the highway now that brake has seized -- we smelled it burning and the wheel rotor was very hot and scuffed shiny.

We intend to replace the brake lines to the front tires with the copper nickel line and new rubber tube since it went so well for the back!

(yes we used flare fittings)

Has anyone had experience fixing a brake caliper that had seized?

[freakn]

If it is the caliper that seized, replace it. Try undoing the line or the bleeder at the caliper, if you get fluid out and the caliper releases, you may have a collapsed hose. I have seen hoses cause this problem before.
You have come this far, it might be a good idea to change all your hoses and the front calipers. Piece of mind and all that...

[bansil]

Originally Posted by SharkBus

Hey everyone---- the brakeline fix went really well,

we tore out the old line as far as it had been rusted, and after taking our measurements from it, we bought lengths of copper nickel brake line that were so easy to bend the re-installation went really fast.

We bled the old brake fluid during the installation and later replaced it.

This was all in the rear tires of the bus.

We just did our best to mimic the old line, the copper nickel line was so easy to work with it felt as easy as putting together lego.
~~~~~~~
One of the short rubber tubes that we took out was completely clogged up. I imagine this is because the bus had been sitting for so long. We realized that the front brake on the driver's side was also not working.... and I think it is because this soft tube is all gunked up too---

anyways we didn't fix it right away and after taking it on the highway now that brake has seized -- we smelled it burning and the wheel rotor was very hot and scuffed shiny.

We intend to replace the brake lines to the front tires with the copper nickel line and new rubber tube since it went so well for the back!

(yes we used flare fittings)

Has anyone had experience fixing a brake caliper that had seized?

that was STUPID, you could have killed someone, DO NOT half ass brakes for everyones sake

Please take pictures of what you did for the rear brakes so we can help you sort this out

just replace the calipers, taking them apart,honing them and replacing o-rings is not a viable option nowadays

since you super heated the rotor you probably messed up the tempering of the metal and it will wear very quickly now

We will all help you do safe things, for our buses brakes are the most important thing

[SharkBus]

Hi Bansil, thanks for your concern... but I'm not sure if you read the post fully.

We managed to do a really excellent job on the rear brakes and there are no issues there.

The front brake on the driver's side didn't seem to be working as well as the other three once we took it on the road to test it.

We concluded that we would change the front brakes for new to be extra safe, but the front brake seized during a drive for parts.

Any other advice on how to replace the calipers on the front driver's side wheel would be super appreciated

[treenail]

A point of clarification.

Brake lines are double flared with a special tool. Most people who would take on a job like this would know about DF but not everyone.

After dealing with a line here and a line there on vehicles over the years I look really hard at the rest of the lines when one fails.

[SharkBus]

That's a good point, treenail --

The lengths of brake line that we used for the job were pre-flared to manufacturer standards so being new to this kind of mechanical fix, it gave us peace of mind.

I would recommend pre-flared lengths of copper nickel brake line for those who may be otherwise intimidated by a brake line fix, as it is easy to work with and also has a great lifespan as it is extremely resistant to rust.

In Canada we found it at Parts Source.

[Dreamer1993]

Yes definately make sure the rest of your brake lines are good. ALot of the times u replace one and it will blow the next weakest one. Ive never seen pre-flared brakelines that would be long enough for a bus. if your replacing the one to the back wheels

[bansil]

Originally Posted by SharkBus

Hi Bansil, thanks for your concern... but I'm not sure if you read the post fully.

"We realized that the front brake on the driver's side was also not working.... and I think it is because this soft tube is all gunked up too---anyways we didn't fix it right away and after taking it on the highway now that brake has seized"

This above is what I read, hence my response

Originally Posted by SharkBus

Any other advice on how to replace the calipers on the front driver's side wheel would be super appreciated

The front calipers will come off with a few bolts taken out
go to Vatozone, Napa whatever is your choice get

1) get calipers 1 right and 1 left(when replacing them make sure the bleed screw is on top the reason for right and left) loaded with pads ~$82 each

2) get 2 new banjo bolts for them ~$5 ea

3) make sure you have new copper washers for the banjo fitting ~15 set

4) get 2 rubber front brake lines ~30 ea (these can/will collapse internally and may look new on outside but bad inside, what happens you apply brakes and hose collapses from vacuum when pedal releases=instant locked or dragging brakes)

5)front rotors ~135 ea (you may be able to have yours turned for $25 each, problem is the one that was abused when caliper was locked I wouldn't take a chance with it,being soft, or hard glazed or even internally cracked from the extreme heat it endeared)

so for about ~$550 you can have all new brakes that should last 75k miles

I would replace all of this at same time, if rear rubber hoses and the 1 front were bad the other front is also bad, since you hand one front caliper lock up, the other is probably bad, this is just my take on it, your mileage may vary

[bansil]

to add you may have two flat springs holding those calipers on like some old fords instead of bolts


Banjo bolt and fitting


NEVER REUSE THESE COPPER WASHERS (unless you are trapped in the Sahara running out of water, OR you are about to be eaten by a Lava monster)

[SharkBus]

Thanks so much for the thorough information, Bansil! It's really helpful--- look forward to doing this fix and posting how it goes!