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Old 09-18-2016, 09:38 AM   #21
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have you tried a "kreg jig"?

its the absolute best way to attach 3/4" plywood together at right angles.

you could do away with the angle iron flange if you had a kreg jig.

the jig lets you drill and drive pocket screws into a very secure joint.

my bus is built of plywood boxes, screwed together with the kreg jig and the the pieces are screwed together like cabinets. its very strong.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:01 AM   #22
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<<<the jig lets you drill and drive pocket screws into a very secure joint.>>>

Exactly right.....the pocket screw has been used in the furniture industry for decades. Add a thin bead of a good wood glue and you'll get a joint that's approx. 6 times stronger than the plywood or particleboard themselves.
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf View Post
have you tried a "kreg jig"?

its the absolute best way to attach 3/4" plywood together at right angles.

you could do away with the angle iron flange if you had a kreg jig.

the jig lets you drill and drive pocket screws into a very secure joint.

my bus is built of plywood boxes, screwed together with the kreg jig and the the pieces are screwed together like cabinets. its very strong.
I don't have one, I'm very familiar with them though. Unless something has changed, Kreg pocket screws are proprietary.

If I were going that route, I'd just rip a 2x4 down to 2x2 and use Spax washer screws to fasten that to my bus walls... The same way I did my 2x4 stud walls for wall behind bed. (And use all materials I already have)

Then I'd fasten my OSB to studs, then cedar to OSB.
But, I lose rigidity at the doorway (the edge you trim out where you see when pocket doors are open)

By using 1x1 angle for vertical, I can clip a dog ear on one side, and screw that to the 1x1 angle running horizontal. Kinda like a lap joint. And I'm saving wall width.

Also need to mention... My windows slide fore & aft horizontally with vertical crossbar in the middle. My pocket door wall is "breaking" at that vertical crossbar... So I can slide the rear window forward or the forward window backward.

Deep tinted windows, so you'll never see the construction from outside.

Also, for my walls... I'm using treated sill plates, and sheeting with OSB 1" from floor. And as mentioned, fastening everything with Spax heat treated washer screws. Except for OSB coated screws & air nails for cedar boards.
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Old 09-18-2016, 06:08 PM   #24
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See if a photobucket video works...



All metal will be trimmed out in cedar
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