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Old 08-13-2016, 12:12 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Building a dual pocket door

In my storage building/cabin, I built a 32" pocket door for bathroom separation. I really like the way it turned out, and I used materials I had on hand, except the door.

I still have enough material to build a skoolie bedroom pocket door, but I've realized I need 70" of travel space for the rail. Because of roofline, that would put me off centerline of bus. So, I'll be making dual pocket doors.

My materials came from an old UPS store that shut down in a mall... They had a heavy aluminum curtain on an aluminum track system (shaped like uni-strut) with roller bearing wheels & hangers. (Super sweet free score!)

I've even used the aluminum uni-strut to build my suburban's kayak rack across the current roof rack. And I used implement pins to pin it to roof rack rails. Much more solid mounting!

Anyway, back on track...
Has anyone used pocket doors on their bus? Do you know of any builds that used pocket doors,

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Old 08-13-2016, 02:57 PM   #2
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The only true pocket doors I've seen used in conversions included roof raises. This makes sense, I guess, as many would otherwise have to duck going through the doorway. It also allows you to center a 28-30" door.
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:00 PM   #3
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Cabin pocket door


Aluminum rail & roller


Roller T assembly & sunken head cap screw


My kayak rack project with spring loaded ratchet strap



Center height of bus is 77"
I could use 70" of rail horizontally, just before the roof's curve breaks over on each side. I'll only be dropping about 3" below curve of roofline.

This is for my bedroom!, in my bus!
I'm only 5'11" (71") and if someone taller than me goes into my bedroom...
I'll tell her to bend over
Not very often will someone taller than me, be in my bedroom.


I picked up an old treadmill someone was throwing away...
It had a rectangle frame rail, so I chopped off one narrow side of rail, slipped it over my door and screwed it above eye sight.
I used hex head bolts and nylock nuts from the roller to inside the frame rail before I screwed it all to door. I used 1/2" board under the door, and screwed the rail at the top to the side of the door, then removed board... Leaving 1/2" floor gap. I screwed the aluminum rail to bottom of a rafter.


To test the resistance.... I took apart an ink pen, and used the straw to open and close the door.
It was perfect and cost me $20 for the door!
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:05 PM   #4
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I hear ya, man. At 6'3", I tend to be a bit more conscious of door and ceiling heights.
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BusFiend View Post
I hear ya, man. At 6'3", I tend to be a bit more conscious of door and ceiling heights.
One son is 6'6" and the other son is 6'3"... They got their height from my ex-father in law.
They're not in my bedroom very often... But I hear what you're sayin'
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:51 PM   #6
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Had an old piece of aluminum rail from a sliding shower door... It's about 3/4" taller than my unistrut. I wanted to put it up there to get some measurements.
The 1/2" foamboard is just for sizing.



Apparently I'm not 71" anymore... Barefooted, I had to tiptoe to hit the foamboard
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
Apparently I'm not 71" anymore... Barefooted, I had to tiptoe to hit the foamboard
Two words for you... gravity boots

https://www.amazon.com/Body-Solid-GI.../dp/B00KC3I2EQ
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Old 08-27-2016, 08:50 PM   #8
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Framing & Rail will be fortified with L clips



Left roller assembly


Right roller assembly


This is why I don't throw any garage door hardware, brackets, or bolts away!!!
Center brace


Right Roller


Cabinet shop buddy will build me two 18.5" doors like these bi-fold oak doors
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:45 AM   #9
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I'm on a mission....

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Old 09-11-2016, 01:22 PM   #10
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Cool idea

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Old 09-17-2016, 10:29 AM   #11
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
My Mahogany/Alder bedroom doors made it to the shirt shop yesterday, as I was headed out. Didn't have room in the truck and I wasn't headed bus, so I stored them safely....
Turned out awesome! I'll try to run back down there and grab some pics.

Here's a couple of small doors the door-maker brought in for us to engrave last week.


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Old 09-17-2016, 03:52 PM   #12
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Will have red cedar side walls the pockets slide into
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:41 PM   #13
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:43 AM   #14
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
I've got a question...
I'm going to Tec screw 1" angle iron to bus side walls and create a flange for my right angled interior walls to make my pockets... Then I'm going to cover it all with 6" t&g cedar boards.

Should I cover those walls (to the flanges) with OSB first, then nail/liquid nails the cedar to the OSB?
Or cover the walls with cedar boards and omit the OSB?

Example, my front & rear angle iron framing will create a 2" to 2 1/2" pocket with skinned wall material on both sides of door
Kinda hard to put into text...

Any ideas?

I'll try to create a mock up later
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:06 AM   #15
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WITH OSB


WITHOUT OSB
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:55 AM   #16
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IMO the OSB will make it easier to fasten the t&g to the wall. When I was younger my parents built a house with knotty pine t&g. It would have been so nice to have the backing of OSB when putting on the t&g.
Gordon

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Old 09-18-2016, 07:47 AM   #17
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
I think I'm going the OSB route...
Otherwise, I'd want a vertical angle iron rib in the middle.

Not really sure yet, the wall only extends out 26" on each side of doorway.

Tek screw OSB to angle iron, then air nail cedar to OSB
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:11 AM   #18
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Personally...I would avoid using any OSB in a bus. The glue used will not stand up to moisture well and buses sweat...a lot. That said...several good coats of old fashioned shellac will help a lot.
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:24 AM   #19
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How about using marine grade plywood?

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Old 09-18-2016, 09:28 AM   #20
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Marine ply is a bit pricey going in but absolutely the very best choice for use in an RV or bus. That is what I am using in mine. Thank goodness it a Shorty!
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