Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #41
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Plymouth MA
Posts: 186
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

Found this in another section of Skoolie.net:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13540
__________________
The tool storage is nice, but where do I put the bed?
Ryan Grimm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 08:10 PM   #42
Mini-Skoolie
 
D&ACaple's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 24
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: Ford B-700
Engine: Cummins 5.9l Turbo Diesel
Rated Cap: 28
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

ok, so im not an electrical genius.... I know not to touch the wrong wire, water is not your friend, and never urinate on a pig fence.... well got a bit more than that, my issue right now is I have a service panel. 70amp homelite panel, with a double 15 amp breaker, and a 20 amp breaker... wiring the breakers and the power legs are ready, but what im havin troubles grasping is what wires from my 50 amp cord gets hooked up to in the power box, red green black and white... I can do an outlet but this one I don't want to chance, any help would be great
__________________
Yes..... it IS a bus, and no you can't have it!
D&ACaple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 10:03 PM   #43
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upstate NY (Mohawk Valley)
Posts: 1,094
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

If the cord is molded to the plug, and has the standard color code:

Black - Hot leg #1 to one side of the main disconnect double breaker
Red - Hot leg #2 to the other side of the main disconnect double breaker
Green - Safety ground - this goes to a buss bar grounded to the panel box frame
White - Neutral - should go to a second buss bar completely insulated from the panel, ground, and the bus chassis

If someone wired the plug onto the cord with screws, you had better have it checked to be sure they used the right colors on the right pins.

At your option the panel and safety ground can also be bonded to the bus chassis, or isolated with the AC devices on non-conductive mounts.

If the panel was not previously a "sub-feed," there may be only one buss bar. The first panel off of an electric meter connects the neutrals and safety grounds together, but sub-feed panels must keep them separate. You may have to purchase an isolated buss to install in the panel. Or, if there are only a couple of circuits, you could join all the white wires together with wire nuts, and put the safety grounds into the buss bar.

If you tie the neutral and ground together anywhere in the bus wiring, it will trip any Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters "upstream" of the outlet you plug into.

You get 240 volts from the black to the red. Double breakers (two slots wide with joined handles, not two handles in one slot) will connect across the two sides to provide the 240 volts to a device requiring it.

You get 120 volts from the black to the white, and also from the red to the white. If you have heavy loads, such as two 120-volt air conditioners or heaters, it is good practice to split them half on the black/white pair and half on the red/white pair to balance the load.

When wiring 120-volt branch circuits, the white goes to white, the green or bare goes to green, and the black goes to a breaker mounted on either the black wire side or the red wire side of the panel.

(Edit: Panel board branch circuits are generally split in rows black/red/black/red from top to bottom, not in columns, e.g. left side black, right side red. Although the bars that feed them are in columns, the tabs that the breakers connect to alternate sides.)

If you are actually describing a 120-volt panel with a main that is not a double breaker, and there is only one power bar going down the panel to feed the branch breakers, then cap off the red wire with a secure wire nut, and use the black, green, and white for your 120 volts as described above. Do not let the second hot wire contact anything.
__________________
Someone said "Making good decisions comes from experience, experience comes from bad decisions." I say there are three kinds of people: those who learn from their mistakes, those who learn from the mistakes of others, and those who never learn.
Redbear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 12:28 PM   #44
Bus Nut
 
PDBreske's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 593
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bookmobile body by Farber
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Navistar DT466/Alison MT643
Rated Cap: 1
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

Redbearís explanation is solid. I had the same issue when I was wiring my breaker box, but I donít have any 240V requirements, ever. I disconnected the red wire at the shore power connection on the side of the bus, then bridged the two sides of the breaker box to feed both buses with the single black wire (120VAC). The red wire is still inside the conduit from the shore power to the box, but I doubt Iíll ever want or need to use it.

When connected to shore power, the blade of the power cord that connects to the red wire will go unused and the black wire will carry all the electrical supply on its own. I wonít ever have more than about 2000W of equipment running at the same time (in fact, I donít think Iíll have that much if I run everything at once).
__________________
.
Read about the "Camel" RV Conversion project!

My first passion is photography. Visit my website to see some of my work.
.
PDBreske is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 01:27 PM   #45
Site Team
 
bansil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 4,847
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

Only issue is when dealing with 50 amp 120V power(like campgrounds have etc) you can then bring in two separate 120V lines Red and Black and use theoretically up to 100 amps of 120v power

When I wired mine I divided loads up: one heater/AC plug on red (front of bus) and one heater/ac plug on the black (back of bus

The rest of the loads I just divided up between the red and black side

This lets me use 2 heaters and ac's etc on 50 amp power, (as well as say blender/microwave oven and rotisserie at same time...and when we are hosting parties we can use a ton of power) when I plug into 30/20 or even 15 amp power all my receptacle's are hot...I just have to remember to "count amps and usage"

At house I am plugged into a 15 amp circuit, which is plenty for 1 ac, chop saw a few lights and fridge

At camp grounds the 120 V lines are actually out of phase 180 degrees (this helps stabilize campground and such from having too much on one leg)

So while I do not have 240V in my bus (since they are not both connected to anything) I still have 2 hots coming in and could for some reason actually put in 240 for say a 12 person hot tube and sauna room
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
bansil is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 09:14 PM   #46
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 4
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

Quick question for the electrical gurues: I am working on installing a fusable disconnect into a conversion and I have used 10/3 for running between a 6 circuit panel; I only have 8 total outlets, 1 will be powered full time for a fridge/freezor and another will be a laptop charger/cell phone charger outlet(from an inverter) on the road and the others will only be used once plugged in on shore power. With only 4 of the 8 outlets running more than 50% of the time even when on shore power, do I need 50 amps and is 10/3 gauge OK(is only running approx. 2 ft. between panel and disconnect) or will 30A be sufficient. A small pottery wheel, a task light and maybe a small electric fan being my other loads once plugged in. I know 10/3 is only rated at 30 A, so will I be in danger of using 10/3 or do I need to upgrade.
shutterbug3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:02 AM   #47
Bus Nut
 
bus-bro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 664
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

10 gauge wire can only handle 30 amps. In rv's, a 30 amp circuit is 120, a 50 amp would be 240. 6 gauge wire for all 3 conductors on the 50 amp service.
bus-bro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 03:04 AM   #48
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

Quote:
Originally Posted by shutterbug3
Quick question for the electrical gurues: I am working on installing a fusable disconnect into a conversion and I have used 10/3 for running between a 6 circuit panel; I only have 8 total outlets, 1 will be powered full time for a fridge/freezor and another will be a laptop charger/cell phone charger outlet(from an inverter) on the road and the others will only be used once plugged in on shore power. With only 4 of the 8 outlets running more than 50% of the time even when on shore power, do I need 50 amps and is 10/3 gauge OK(is only running approx. 2 ft. between panel and disconnect) or will 30A be sufficient. A small pottery wheel, a task light and maybe a small electric fan being my other loads once plugged in. I know 10/3 is only rated at 30 A, so will I be in danger of using 10/3 or do I need to upgrade.
You want the common sense answer, or what is written in the code book?

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #49
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 4
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

I won't be pulling any 240 circuits from the panel, only 120; the owners are planning on running the only 240 circuits from the shore power pedestal
shutterbug3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2014, 09:05 AM   #50
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
Re: How To: Bus Electrical Systems - AC

tell me what is wrong with this idea. i plan on totoally isolating my 120v ac from the rest of the body/chassis. a simple plug to the power pole or generator leading through the breaker box and on to dedicated wall plugs. no chassis gound, no body ground. if no wire can touch the metal, and can only be plugged into either the power pole or the generator, then how will this not work? how will it not be safe?

i plan an entirely seperate system for 12v dc through inverter for solar power and another system for 12v dc only for lights/fans/other.

pick it apart and chastise me!
claydbal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bus Electrical Systems - DC Les Lampman Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 60 12-02-2016 12:48 PM
Leveling systems lornaschinske Conversion General Discussions 0 08-04-2012 11:42 AM
Electrical Systems noahyay Conversion General Discussions 11 07-29-2005 06:43 AM
Sewer Systems Steve Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 0 06-16-2004 01:31 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.