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Old 10-25-2016, 09:15 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Zombiepatrol View Post
Can anyone point me to more threads about ceiling work? Why do we want to remove the inner shell? Is it for thermal/leak reasons or other reasons.. We are trying to figure out plans right now and just got our bus so any input is helpful. Anyone that knows about what to remove for flooring would be appreciated also. At the back of our bus, the black part has a 4 inch crack in it, but I am unsure if that part is removed or just built over the top.
I won't be doing it on this build... But from the little bit of insulation I've seen by pulling my interior lights, I would think spiders holding hands would have about the same r-value.

I really think it was to satisfy a government form's check box... Insulation
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:08 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
I won't be doing it on this build... But from the little bit of insulation I've seen by pulling my interior lights, I would think spiders holding hands would have about the same r-value.

I really think it was to satisfy a government form's check box... Insulation
I thought I read that spray foaming was r32 per inch? Which is a lot. read below its less than half of this. I' was basing my air conditioning on this number and now I'm off to talk to google again. For the heat end of the roof insulation I'm going with a small 5 ft wide roof rack for a bit of shade and white paint on the bus roof itself.

If we use foam board are we great stuffing it in so its sealed?

Here is write up I found on foam
Open cell spray foams are between .5 and 1 lbs per cubic foot, and have an R value of 3.0 – 4.0 per inch of insulation. R values are additive, so you can multiple the number of inches of insulation thickness times the R value to arrive at a total insulation value.
A typical 2×4 stud filled with open cell spray foam will have an R value between 10.5 and 14. This R value is similar to that of R13 fiberglass batting; however, fiberglass generally does not provide as tight a seal as a foam product would, since it is unable to achieve as tight of a seal.
Open cell foam is relatively easy to cut, which allows installers to fill the cavity passed the edge of the studs and to cut off the excess. This can’t be done with closed cell foams, but they require much less thickness to provide the same R value.
Common Applications: Open cell foam is generally used above grade in walls and sometimes in attics. Some open cell foams have restrictions on the spray height (limited to 5-6″ maximum in a horizontal installation).
Price: More than R13 fiberglass; less than closed cell foam. Expect to pay about $1.25 for the first board foot in a room, and $0.80 for each additional board foot, depending on installation size.
Closed Cell Foam – R6 – R8

Closed cell spray foams are between 2 and 4 lbs. per cubic foot. They sport an R value of 6.0-8.0 per inch of insulation, about double their open cell foam counterparts. Just like for open cell foam, R-values are additive.
Two inches of closed cell foam will provide R12 – R14 of insulation. Three inches will get you over R20, more than sufficient for exterior walls even the coldest climates in the United States.
Common Applications: Closed Cell Foam can be used throughout an entire house. It has the advantage of forming its own vapor barrier, and it can be sprayed to any thickness. The only drawback of closed cell foam is the price.
Price: More than open cell foam; one of the most expensive insulation options. But, doesn’t require a separate vapor barrier. Expect to pay $1.75 for the first board foot in a room and $1.25 for each additional board foot.
Check with a Spray Foam Installer – R Values Vary

Before you commit to a spray foam installation, check with your installer to confirm the R value of the product. Since R values can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and based on the chemical make-up of the foam, it’s important to understand the specific foam you’ll be installing.
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:30 AM   #13
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Before you insulate you should read this web page.
The R Value Myth | Allied Spray Foams
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Old 10-26-2016, 05:12 AM   #14
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MM's bus isn't spray foamed. It has the fiberglass "insulation".
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:56 AM   #15
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If there is already insulation will it need replaced

Hi everyone,
I see articles and pics of people removing the ceiling and removing the existing insulation and replacing it. Is that necessary, if so why?
Thanks
Wes
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:14 AM   #16
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Hi everyone,
I see articles and pics of people removing the ceiling and removing the existing insulation and replacing it. Is that necessary, if so why?
Thanks
Wes
Its necessary unless you wanna tin can to live in. Thermal efficiency is real important when you live in it.
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Old 10-27-2016, 10:39 PM   #17
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Thinking about the insulation today, I came up with a couple of thoughts... My wife had planned on using the bus and doing the conversion over a longer period of time. However, the more I research spray foam insulation the more I want it. However, the prep work required for the spray foam doesn't lend itself doing the conversion one room at a time.

Possible Option #1: This led to a thought, what about doing the spray foam myself? Has anybody used the home depot 2 part foam spray?

Possible Option #2: Another thought was to use thinner rigid insulation and then fill the gaps with spray foam. Any experience out there with this combo method?

A third option was to do the 2-part foam then lay in a thin sheet of rigid on top of it... Really just a hybrid of option 2.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:50 PM   #18
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I just did my ceiling and floor today.😀 I tried everything from grinders with various wheels and punches etc. After reading muddaEarth posts I bit the bullet and bought a air chisel. 4 hours later I had all my panels off . Easy . As for the floor I started with a pry bar and brute force. Then I got smart and set my skillsaw depth to just less the I needed and cut a grid pattern into the floor and pulled the small parts out. Easy.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:02 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by toasterman12 View Post
Then I got smart and set my skillsaw depth to just less the I needed and cut a grid pattern into the floor and pulled the small parts out. Easy.
I entertained the thought of doing exactly that when it's time for me to rip my floor up. This post just clinches it. The only trick will be getting the first piece out... but I'll figure something out.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:49 AM   #20
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What sort of insulation might be in the roof of my 1998 AmTran?
I thump the ceiling with my fist and the thud tells mee it is full of something.
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