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06-20-2019, 03:29 PM
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#41
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Sadly, that was when I asked her if I should leave now...
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*grins*
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06-27-2019, 05:50 PM
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#42
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45
I think I have four options:
- Angle grinder with flap wheel.
- Hole Cutter.
- Air Chisel.
- Det-Cord
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5. Demo Hammer
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06-27-2019, 08:13 PM
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#43
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 69
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 5.9, Spicer-5
Rated Cap: 44 Big butts/66 Lil ones
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When drilling hard material, get the best bit you can find, use lots of pressure (all you can muster) and real slow drill speed. I find the same tactic works at the metal lathe ( I am no expert, just a self taught backward machinist! ) If I encounter some hard metal that just heats up and destroys my lathe bits, I just slow the lathe down and increase the feed pressure and that same workpiece will cut like butter.
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06-27-2019, 08:15 PM
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#44
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Cooling and lubrication of the bit ought not be overlooked, either.
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-27-2019, 08:24 PM
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#45
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 69
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 5.9, Spicer-5
Rated Cap: 44 Big butts/66 Lil ones
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Yes, that too.
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06-27-2019, 08:26 PM
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#46
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one_eyed_jack
When drilling hard material, get the best bit you can find, use lots of pressure (all you can muster) and real slow drill speed. I find the same tactic works at the metal lathe ( I am no expert, just a self taught backward machinist! ) If I encounter some hard metal that just heats up and destroys my lathe bits, I just slow the lathe down and increase the feed pressure and that same workpiece will cut like butter.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Cooling and lubrication of the bit ought not be overlooked, either.
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Huh, huh... Huh, huh...
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06-27-2019, 09:15 PM
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#47
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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The boy simply ain't right...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-27-2019, 09:38 PM
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#48
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
The boy simply ain't right...
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But I ain't wrong, either. LOL
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06-28-2019, 05:44 AM
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#49
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Nor did I imply so. Just Cap'n Obvious stepping up to the plate! [emoji41]
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-28-2019, 02:00 PM
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#50
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 4
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So, I’m pretty sure I know the fastener type. They’re used on some light bar kits for off roaring to run wires through the body of the truck without causing leaks. It’s sort of a deformation fastener, I forget the name to.
Hollow, using a special tool to flare the inside and punch itself into place. Then (on the light kits) there is a tap to cut threads to bolt to (or in the case of an LED light bar, a hollow bolt that lets wires pass through)
I forget the fastener name type though. So you may have to drill with a bit slightly larger than the threaded hole itself. Much like drilling out a rivet
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06-28-2019, 05:04 PM
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#51
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
How do you stop the pilot bit from turning the nutcert which I guess happened with trying to drill them out? If the pilot bit can't drill thru, then no way the hole saw stays centered.
John
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The bit was just the right size. Some of the anchors started spinning just before the hole cutter part touched the metal, so I just angled/wobbled the drill carefully until it caught.
Carefully that is, the second time around. The first try I broke a bit, then bent the other.
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06-28-2019, 05:42 PM
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#52
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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It's Friday night, so I intend to do some angled wobbling myself, after indulging in imbibing a wobbly pop, or few...
__________________
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