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Old 05-01-2017, 11:03 AM   #11
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Now, it is safely covered by a layer of two inch rigid foam, one inch of foil faced foam, 5/8ths inch of OSB and a series of mix and match rugs and carpet pieces.
2 inch foam AND one inch foil? I'm thinking of turning the framing 2x4s sideways and going 3 1/2". Is there any advantage to using 3/4" ply?

I'm doing a roof raise so losing ceiling and flooring isn't a concern. I would like to do the same on the sides but I dunno how much of that I'm willing to give up.

Floating floors... Transcendence (Mudda Earth) glued his 2x4s. Katelyn screwed hers. Ply all the way across isn't going to leave a lot of room for movement anyway but what's the right thing to do? Make them snug? Cut them 1/8" short both sides? Screw/attach to the floor but not the sides? Final flooring will likely be wood as well. I think tile would break or at least the grout would need constant work from the bus flexing. Any good videos out there?
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:55 AM   #12
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I haven't heard of any videos on tile, but several people have done it previously. It's more common in the larger coaches of course. You apply the tile and grout with a more flexible method than used in normal housing.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:04 PM   #13
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I haven't heard of any videos on tile, but several people have done it previously. It's more common in the larger coaches of course. You apply the tile and grout with a more flexible method than used in normal housing.
Sorry, I meant videos on floating floors, what to attach where, etc.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:34 PM   #14
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That's also been a frequent subject here. I find it interesting that floating floors vary from truly floating to screwed or glued down.

The general though is that a floating floor would eventually be held down by the partition walls you build in the bus.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:02 PM   #15
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That's also been a frequent subject here. I find it interesting that floating floors vary from truly floating to screwed or glued down.
Exactly!!

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The general though is that a floating floor would eventually be held down by the partition walls you build in the bus.
That's what I was thinking too. I have 1,000 lbs of birch ply that is now cabinets, counters, etc. sitting on top of it. It's got the walls keeping it from sliding off the floor when I pull 4.7 G on a left turn. With cabinets and counters attached to the walls, even upside down, the flooring should stay in place. I can see screwing/gluing/otherwise attaching to keep it from squeaking but no need for other movement.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:22 PM   #16
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I've also got plans for a floating floor, but I'm sure going to tack it down so it doesn't tend to get misaligned. I have no experience with floating floors, but in a vibrating vehicle it just makes sense to prevent any possible movement, even if it's not tightly fastened down.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:33 PM   #17
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I've also got plans for a floating floor, but I'm sure going to tack it down so it doesn't tend to get misaligned. I have no experience with floating floors, but in a vibrating vehicle it just makes sense to prevent any possible movement, even if it's not tightly fastened down.
Assuming 1/8", where the hell is it going to go?
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:45 PM   #18
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Either you're taller than I am or you've got a shorter ceiling height. I've got a few inches to spare before I start brushing the ceiling.

I've had such good luck with this 1/2" rigid styrofoam panels against the windows that I plan to also use that on the floor capped with plywood. It should be 1 1/4" total.

I thought you were doing a roof raise?
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:48 AM   #19
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Either you're taller than I am or you've got a shorter ceiling height. I've got a few inches to spare before I start brushing the ceiling.

I've had such good luck with this 1/2" rigid styrofoam panels against the windows that I plan to also use that on the floor capped with plywood. It should be 1 1/4" total.

I thought you were doing a roof raise?
I'm confused now. 1/8" leeway on the flooring on each side and front/back. Not that there's a hard stop for the front or back. The bed will be raised in the back and there is no stop at the front really.

But anywho, ... yes, I'm probably taller and have a shorter ceiling. I have a 74" bus and apparently I'm more than 74". If I stand up straight, I hit the ceiling. Walking around working ain't bad but I don't want to live that way. If I had the 78" bus, I'd consider leaving as is. But even with a 78" bus, a raise for cabinets would be a "nice to have". Probably not nice enough for the work but since I'm in a 74" there's no choice so ...

I raise the roof 18" and lose 3 1/2" top and bottom (standard 2x4 width) and pick up some serious insulation. The big question is will I give you 3 1/2" on each side to go with it.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:08 AM   #20
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I did 3 1/2" in the floor and ceiling and 3" on the walls. Its pretty much a big styrofoam cooler now... It is extremely easy to heat and cool.
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