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Old 04-15-2017, 12:12 PM   #11
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I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.

Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:16 PM   #12
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I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.

Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
I've never heard of the foam being terribly hard to cut. Maybe your guy used some slightly different formulation?
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:18 PM   #13
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My method used a sawzall. That's what Milwaukee calls a reciprocating saw. Same thing. You just need to buy a long blade and modify it. I don't see how a grinding wheel can cut through 2' or more of foam.


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Old 04-15-2017, 12:30 PM   #14
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I like your sawzall method. That long blade does look like it could be a little dangerous though.

I didn't realize there would be a difference in the density of various types of foam. As I've said, and complained, many times my foam was like cutting wood. No solvents or other problems, but that 3# closed cell foam is very solid. I couldn't tell you if there is any advantage to either type of foam, but I'd rather be carving on the soft foam with a bread knife than to be cutting it with a hand saw.

Live and learn.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:39 PM   #15
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I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.

Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
It's a great tool & can make some very precision cuts plus on Styrofoam very little mess.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:06 PM   #16
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Robin: Maybe the closed cell is a bit tougher to cut. And I love my grinder so I'll be giving that a shot too.
On a side note....
HD carries Loctite-Tite Foam which comes in a 12oz can and it's closed cell foam insulation. I'll be using it behind my dash and other tight places etc to help drown out engine noise.

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Old 04-15-2017, 03:29 PM   #17
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I've been using the canned foam for the places the commercial foam guy either missed or couldn't spray properly. I'm planning to drill holes in my back door and wheel chair doors to attempt to fill them with foam. After that I'll cover them with rigid foam panels and then plywood to match the rest of the interior.

It just keeps getting better and better. Every little baby step makes a noticeable difference, but this is sure one long row to hoe.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:50 PM   #18
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More often than not this is my go to tool.
(see original post to look at the picture again)

That isn't a grinder. It's a Fein oscillating tool. Mine is a different brand, but I thought of the same tool for shaving foam. It'll only plunge maybe 1-1.5 inches deep and the cut piece would have to be snapped away so that it could reach in and cut more. But the flush cutting design of the tool really lends itself nicely to working on a wall like this. I wonder how the production rate compares to a crazy-big blade like that 36 incher. "Slow and steady" might win the race.

Seems like a bow saw modified with the blade rotated 90 degrees would do, especially if one person held each end. A thin blade is prone to buckling when pushed, but if it can be pulled alternately from each end, it won't buckle.
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:58 PM   #19
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I've been using the canned foam for the places the commercial foam guy either missed or couldn't spray properly. I'm planning to drill holes in my back door and wheel chair doors to attempt to fill them with foam. After that I'll cover them with rigid foam panels and then plywood to match the rest of the interior.

It just keeps getting better and better. Every little baby step makes a noticeable difference, but this is sure one long row to hoe.
That's a great idea. I have to insulate the doors too!!
I'm still working on my rust issues but the next step is insulation which won't be too long from now... I've actually learned alot of it from watching your build, so thank you for sharing as you go...blood, sweat, tears and all
Long row to hoe you say? I'm laughing because I thought I'd be hitting the road in March! How naive.

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Old 04-15-2017, 04:08 PM   #20
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(see original post to look at the picture again)

That isn't a grinder. It's a Fein oscillating tool. Mine is a different brand, but I thought of the same tool for shaving foam. It'll only plunge maybe 1-1.5 inches deep and the cut piece would have to be snapped away so that it could reach in and cut more. But the flush cutting design of the tool really lends itself nicely to working on a wall like this. I wonder how the production rate compares to a crazy-big blade like that 36 incher. "Slow and steady" might win the race.

Seems like a bow saw modified with the blade rotated 90 degrees would do, especially if one person held each end. A thin blade is prone to buckling when pushed, but if it can be pulled alternately from each end, it won't buckle.
I think it's the thinner blades that gets stuck and pinches. Maybe you could use one of the other options to get the big stuff of quick and finish up with your Fein oscillating tool. That's just a suggestion. I always start out with the greatest intentions and then switch to something else and find it works better but only for a while and then I go back to my initial setup and then switch again lol. Maybe I get bored easily.
I saw a really nice Machete at work today that I'm considering because I know it'll probably take a multitude of tools before I get the job done.
We're winning the race....just a little slower than we thought! I thought I would be finished in March. <sigh>

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