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04-14-2017, 08:15 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 261
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas EF
Engine: Cat 3126
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Cutting Spray Foam
We recently finished our spray foam job and it needed trimmed. We found an electric foam saw by Milwaukee but it was $600. Not happening.
We then purchased this saw to hand cut it, and it was terrible. The foam kept pinching the blade and not allowing it to go back and forth. Because of my need to take everything apart and mod it I decided to make a $600 foam saw for $50
The saw handle comes off with two easy screws. Then use a reciprocating saw blade to make the pattern ON THE OPPOSITE end the handle was on. Cut it out with a Dremel. It may need to be filed down to make it slightly thinner. Insert and enjoy cutting foam the easy way. Although the video doesn't show much action, once I got the hang of it it was a breeze.
I don't know why the second picture keeps uploading sideways. Sorry.
If you guys like this, please follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, etc. We also have a blog.
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04-14-2017, 08:42 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That's sure a lot easier than the way I trimmed my foam. Good job. New inventions with danger involved. I'll be looking forward to seeing how well that works on the ceiling.
I felt like kicking the foam guy's butt for putting so much foam on my ceiling and walls.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-14-2017, 08:43 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 261
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas EF
Engine: Cat 3126
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Not dangerous as far as I can tell. The foam keep the blade straight. I used it on the ceiling today. It was working ok but it would have been better with more foam. The blade just didn't have an much to bite into. Also, it's pretty dang heavy to keep above your head for long.
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04-14-2017, 09:14 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I skinned my knuckles a whole lot a times with my sawing and there's no way to get away from the shoulder pain of working overhead.
I think you did it right.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-14-2017, 11:11 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 261
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas EF
Engine: Cat 3126
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Here's a better write up for those interested...
Electric Foam Saw | Sasquatters
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04-15-2017, 05:40 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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I used a machete , cut it like butter. did my hole bus in an hour.
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04-15-2017, 08:02 AM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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I guess a sawzall is out of the question? I'll try the machete like Dave suggested.
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04-15-2017, 10:16 AM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 261
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas EF
Engine: Cat 3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss
I guess a sawzall is out of the question? I'll try the machete like Dave suggested.
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This whole thread is about using a sawzall...? It would never work with smaller blades though.
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04-15-2017, 11:26 AM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sasquatters
This whole thread is about using a sawzall...? It would never work with smaller blades though.
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No, that was posed as a question. Has anyone tried using one? I wonder if that might work....but as you said, the blade is probably too short....but maybe in tight spaces.
Just putting some ideas out there.
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04-15-2017, 11:41 AM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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More often than not this is my go to tool.
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04-15-2017, 12:12 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.
Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-15-2017, 12:16 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.
Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
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I've never heard of the foam being terribly hard to cut. Maybe your guy used some slightly different formulation?
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04-15-2017, 12:18 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 261
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas EF
Engine: Cat 3126
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My method used a sawzall. That's what Milwaukee calls a reciprocating saw. Same thing. You just need to buy a long blade and modify it. I don't see how a grinding wheel can cut through 2' or more of foam.
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04-15-2017, 12:30 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I like your sawzall method. That long blade does look like it could be a little dangerous though.
I didn't realize there would be a difference in the density of various types of foam. As I've said, and complained, many times my foam was like cutting wood. No solvents or other problems, but that 3# closed cell foam is very solid. I couldn't tell you if there is any advantage to either type of foam, but I'd rather be carving on the soft foam with a bread knife than to be cutting it with a hand saw.
Live and learn.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-15-2017, 12:39 PM
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#15
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
I never thought of using a grinder with a thin blade or I'd have tried it.
Those kits must be very soft foam if you can cut them with a machete.
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It's a great tool & can make some very precision cuts plus on Styrofoam very little mess.
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04-15-2017, 03:06 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Robin: Maybe the closed cell is a bit tougher to cut. And I love my grinder so I'll be giving that a shot too.
On a side note....
HD carries Loctite-Tite Foam which comes in a 12oz can and it's closed cell foam insulation. I'll be using it behind my dash and other tight places etc to help drown out engine noise.
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04-15-2017, 03:29 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I've been using the canned foam for the places the commercial foam guy either missed or couldn't spray properly. I'm planning to drill holes in my back door and wheel chair doors to attempt to fill them with foam. After that I'll cover them with rigid foam panels and then plywood to match the rest of the interior.
It just keeps getting better and better. Every little baby step makes a noticeable difference, but this is sure one long row to hoe.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-15-2017, 03:50 PM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T
More often than not this is my go to tool.
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(see original post to look at the picture again)
That isn't a grinder. It's a Fein oscillating tool. Mine is a different brand, but I thought of the same tool for shaving foam. It'll only plunge maybe 1-1.5 inches deep and the cut piece would have to be snapped away so that it could reach in and cut more. But the flush cutting design of the tool really lends itself nicely to working on a wall like this. I wonder how the production rate compares to a crazy-big blade like that 36 incher. "Slow and steady" might win the race.
Seems like a bow saw modified with the blade rotated 90 degrees would do, especially if one person held each end. A thin blade is prone to buckling when pushed, but if it can be pulled alternately from each end, it won't buckle.
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04-15-2017, 03:58 PM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
I've been using the canned foam for the places the commercial foam guy either missed or couldn't spray properly. I'm planning to drill holes in my back door and wheel chair doors to attempt to fill them with foam. After that I'll cover them with rigid foam panels and then plywood to match the rest of the interior.
It just keeps getting better and better. Every little baby step makes a noticeable difference, but this is sure one long row to hoe.
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That's a great idea. I have to insulate the doors too!!
I'm still working on my rust issues but the next step is insulation which won't be too long from now... I've actually learned alot of it from watching your build, so thank you for sharing as you go...blood, sweat, tears and all [emoji1]
Long row to hoe you say? I'm laughing because I thought I'd be hitting the road in March! How naive.
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04-15-2017, 04:08 PM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 774
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
(see original post to look at the picture again)
That isn't a grinder. It's a Fein oscillating tool. Mine is a different brand, but I thought of the same tool for shaving foam. It'll only plunge maybe 1-1.5 inches deep and the cut piece would have to be snapped away so that it could reach in and cut more. But the flush cutting design of the tool really lends itself nicely to working on a wall like this. I wonder how the production rate compares to a crazy-big blade like that 36 incher. "Slow and steady" might win the race.
Seems like a bow saw modified with the blade rotated 90 degrees would do, especially if one person held each end. A thin blade is prone to buckling when pushed, but if it can be pulled alternately from each end, it won't buckle.
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I think it's the thinner blades that gets stuck and pinches. Maybe you could use one of the other options to get the big stuff of quick and finish up with your Fein oscillating tool. That's just a suggestion. I always start out with the greatest intentions and then switch to something else and find it works better but only for a while and then I go back to my initial setup and then switch again lol. Maybe I get bored easily.
I saw a really nice Machete at work today that I'm considering because I know it'll probably take a multitude of tools before I get the job done.
We're winning the race....just a little slower than we thought! I thought I would be finished in March. <sigh>
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