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Old 02-22-2016, 09:26 PM   #21
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We're stumbling toward perfection.

Your description was fine, I just totally missed it.
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:27 AM   #22
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Ok, so now that I know my converter is normal..

Here is what I have come up with.. havent sized my wires and CBs yet because i need to read some specs on the draw of some things..



note: the distance between the converter, 150a solenoid, battery, relay, and 12v circuit breakers will be fairly close.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:10 PM   #23
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T92P11A22-120 - TE CONNECTIVITY / POTTER & BRUMFIELD - General Purpose Relay, T92 Series, Power, Non Latching, DPDT, 120 VAC, 30 A | Newark element14

anyone have experience with a product like the one in link?

Its a realay rated for 30a @ 120vac for $12.... i dont see anyreason why I couldnt use it to automatically switch between inverter and shore power.. the inverter would be wired to the normally closed pole and when plugged into shower power the shore power would send power through the solenoid

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Old 02-23-2016, 12:44 PM   #24
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ok that schematic doesnt show how the ground and neutral would work

the relay in the link is a double pole double throw relay, so it really looks more like this:



still dont know what to do with the ground..... i believe you are supposed to either the inverter ground or the shore ground..... i need a tptt lol
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:58 PM   #25
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Here's how I would wire the thing:



Use an A/B relay before the AC breaker panel and an on/off relay on the converter AC input.

All grounds go back to the bus body one way or another.
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:17 PM   #26
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Awesome, thanks for that! thats actually the same as I have drawn now except the relay is in front of rather than behind the converter which shouldnt make a big diff other than using an AC rather than DC relay ie the same pilot line.. I will probly swap to that set up just to keep things clean

so its ok to ground shore power to the bus? thats really my biggest question at this point

thanks alot for all of your help roach!

*edit, that does make a (bigger) difference because i can wire shore power directly too the converter rather than splicing in and the converter will still be switched off! very clean..
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:39 PM   #27
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also, im not very educated on charging batteries esp. with these converters... It seems like it would over charge if connected directly like shown?

I tested the charging circuit on my converter with a multimeter and it read 8v (not connected to a battery or anything), the other circuits read 12.8 - this is confusing to me as i would expect the charging circuit to have higher volts and just a low current
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:56 PM   #28
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If you wire the converter in before the breakers just be sure to use the proper 10ga wire (assuming a 30amp shore power plug) so the pedestal breaker protects the wire. I'd also check to see whether the converter itself has an internal fuse.

The 120v panel grounds to the bus body, otherwise a loose wire could short to the body but not trip the breaker creating a hot skin condition where the body is energized. Anyone touching the skin would then feel anything from a slight tingling to a massive shock depending on how well grounded they were at the time.

Some people have found mis-wired shore power pedestals that can cause the same condition. When plugged in somewhere new, testing your body with a cheap voltage checker is always a good idea.

I'd hook the charger to the battery then see what voltage you're getting. A good three stage charger will start off at ~14.4 volts at high amps to bulk charge (up to about 80% charge) then taper off to ~13.6v at low amps to finish the next 20%. Once the battery is fully charged, voltage drops down to 13.2v at very low amps to keep the battery topped off.

I just checked my auto battery charger and I'm getting 14.5v when attached to the battery and .65v when unhooked measuring at the clips.

12.7 - 12.8v is a fully charged battery. 12.1 is 50% discharged. For good battery life it's best not to deep cycle (drain) a deep cycle battery. They'll handle being drained a lot better than starting batteries but you'll get much better battery life if they don't go below 50%.
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:05 PM   #29
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ok good to know, ill test it when hooked up to battery! thanks for the great info.

do converters generally have separate circuits for charging and general use? im wondering if this is unusual/ if its ok to use any of the circuits to charge
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Old 02-23-2016, 04:24 PM   #30
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Since most things electronic draw power in standby mode my preference would be to put the relay on the input side of the converter. If you wire it in before the A/B relay you wouldn't need the on/off relay for the converter. When the shore power plug was pulled the A/B relay would switch to inverter input and power down the shore power line (and the converter) to that point.

Any input to the DC system (from converter or alternator) varies the voltage in the entire DC wiring continuum. Anything attached to the battery bank will get battery voltage whatever that voltage happens to be at the time. A 12v system is rarely at 12 volts and will work fine from 11 to 15 volts.
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