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02-04-2016, 10:18 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 16
Year: 1993
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 78 Pax
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Drilling Rivets
Tryinf to do this with little to no prior experience. Ive gotten a few to "pop", but they dont move after the fact, in out or around. What drill bit size should i be using andbehat should be happeninf with the rivets when i "get" them?
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02-04-2016, 10:41 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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I didn't drill any rivets. I used an air chisel. Which rivets are you trying to remove?
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Hopeless Busaholic!
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02-04-2016, 11:16 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 16
Year: 1993
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 78 Pax
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The rivets that hold on the metal wals and ceiling, behind which resides the old insulation.
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02-05-2016, 12:03 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 61
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I'd get the drill size just hairline bigger than rivet hole. Use old drill bit to test for size, then order some solid carbide drills and a punch. I wouldn't try drilling out rivet with cheap hardware store drills.
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02-05-2016, 12:37 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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The chances are that you're drilling 3/16" pop rivets. Does that sound right? I've successfully used a 3/16" drill bit titanium HSS drill bit for 3/16" pop rivets. Going a little bigger, like a 7/32" drill bit will take the flange right off of the rivet every time. Make sure you don't go to deep, though, if you plan on re-using the holes.
A chisel will work faster (air chisel or hand chisel with a guard and big hammer), but it's more likely to damage the skins. Again, this is only a concern if you plan on re-installing the material.
My Thomas used big, Philips head screws to hold the ceiling panels in. That was a real pain! They were torqued on there good. I did a run with an impact wrench and the ones that didn't pull out got the grinder treatment.
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02-05-2016, 01:33 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 16
Year: 1993
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 78 Pax
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Chisel is a brilliant idea. I absolutely do not want the skins anymore, so, that works. Thanks for the tip. Though, how hard is it to hand chisel the ceiling?
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02-05-2016, 01:44 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Not difficult per se, but you'll be sore. Ever try painting overhead? This will be much more taxing.
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02-05-2016, 02:06 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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If you have access to a decent air compressor get an air chisel at Home Depot for about $35 and a pack of chisels for $12 and go to town on the ceiling. If you look in Conversion Skoolie Projects for my thread "my build so far" there are some pics of an air chisel. In my opinion it is the only way to go.
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Hopeless Busaholic!
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02-05-2016, 03:04 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 61
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that's your opinion.
good work is when someone does least damaging to original part. lousy work is when someone leaves no return path. Normally, one can see workmanship or worker's aptitude by inspecting his work, never hire someone who prioritize speed over ingenuity and workmanship.
I watched enough of crappy work while working in the floor where they assemble million dollar jets, and some people (supervisor) force their way into assemblers, causing million dollars worth of rework and thousands of customer's complaints, makes me wonder how they ever become a supervisory position. These people have tons of rocks in their head, they just can't be dealt with.
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02-05-2016, 07:59 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner
If you have access to a decent air compressor get an air chisel at Home Depot for about $35 and a pack of chisels for $12 and go to town on the ceiling. If you look in Conversion Skoolie Projects for my thread "my build so far" there are some pics of an air chisel. In my opinion it is the only way to go.
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THIS^^^ is good advice.
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02-14-2016, 11:34 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 4
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: G 30
Engine: Chevy 350 gas
Rated Cap: 21
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lazy b or some were else
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02-15-2016, 12:10 AM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 16
Year: 1993
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 78 Pax
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Thank you again. The chisel works wonders. It also helps to punch out the pin in the middle of the rivet before going at it. But yeah, perfect.
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02-15-2016, 04:14 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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Yeah, been there done that. Punch them out and cut them off. There's only about 2 cajillian of them. Just be careful when you take the last ones out, they are pretty heavy and awkward. When the chisel gets dull put it on a grinding stone to sharpen it. That makes a world of difference. If you need anything else just holler, someone will be able to help.
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Hopeless Busaholic!
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02-15-2016, 04:47 PM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimplySophie
Thank you again. The chisel works wonders. It also helps to punch out the pin in the middle of the rivet before going at it. But yeah, perfect.
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I just do not get how the chisel is a good tool to take those rivets out, I tried with a manual an air chisel and it takes way to long but then I found a forum when a guy recommended and angle grinder and a sanding disk 60 grit and it basically takes 15 seconds/each to take the rivets out without damaging the surface. ( the surface gets sanded by the disk but does about it).
I will try to make a video of it to show.
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02-16-2016, 12:19 AM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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Rivet how-to
Using the air chisel, use the chisel shaped like a center punch first. Punch all the centers, pushing the hard metal pin back up into the rivet. Then change to the flat chisel and it knocks the heads of in 1 or 2 seconds. Keep a good edge on the chisel. It works great.
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Hopeless Busaholic!
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02-16-2016, 07:35 AM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Definitely the air chisel. I have tried cold chisel and hammer/mallet, grinder and air chisel. A it chisel worked like a dream for the most part but I think I have to wait for it to get a bit warmer. My cheap pneumatic air chisel seems to be not working properly. When it was tho, most of the rivets look less than 10 seconds each. On the seams there were bigger rivets on my bus. Those I started with air chisel then smacked them off with cold chisel and mallet
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02-16-2016, 02:37 PM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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Hey EricW, are you using air tool oil in it? If not, a few drops into the air inlet every so often makes a world of difference and lengthens the life of the tool.
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Hopeless Busaholic!
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02-16-2016, 04:32 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricW
Definitely the air chisel. I have tried cold chisel and hammer/mallet, grinder and air chisel. A it chisel worked like a dream for the most part but I think I have to wait for it to get a bit warmer. My cheap pneumatic air chisel seems to be not working properly. When it was tho, most of the rivets look less than 10 seconds each. On the seams there were bigger rivets on my bus. Those I started with air chisel then smacked them off with cold chisel and mallet
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Are we talking steel rivets or aluminium rivets ?
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02-18-2016, 07:42 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 153
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Just finished the ceiling. The aluminum rivets on the wall panels came out easily with air chisel but the rest I used the air chisel with the punch on it to pop out the middles then a normal hammer and cold chisel to get the 560 rivets on the ceiling.
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