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Old 06-29-2018, 10:50 AM   #81
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Wow that's sooooo much work, I'm really glad my Thomas has screws holding the ceiling up
It wasn't much work. I got them out single handedly in about three or four hours total.

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Old 06-29-2018, 12:10 PM   #82
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I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".


Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.


The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:14 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".


Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.


The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
Rivet shaft is called a mandrel. You should tap them out with a center or drift punch before drilling as many times the rivet is aluminum and the mandrel is steel. If you catch it just right as you're drilling it will catch the mandrel and snap the drill bit.
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:14 PM   #84
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100 degrees tomorrow when I start tearing mine apart, yay
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Old 06-29-2018, 02:52 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by MarkyDee View Post
I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".


Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.


The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
Punch the mandrels out with a pointy bit on a $15 air hammer. Then you use a sharpened chisel bit and the rivets shear right off. I can do a whole bus in a few hours now.
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:24 PM   #86
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Punch the mandrels out with a pointy bit on a $15 air hammer. Then you use a sharpened chisel bit and the rivets shear right off. I can do a whole bus in a few hours now.

HA! My $15 air hammer bit the dust after a week of removing the fiberboard on the walls, and the store I bought it from wouldn't take it back - "abused" . Don't really want to buy another $15 tool if its going to break like that. I'd easily pay twice or three times that for one that'll last for the whole conversion....
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:27 PM   #87
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Rivet shaft is called a mandrel. You should tap them out with a center or drift punch before drilling as many times the rivet is aluminum and the mandrel is steel. If you catch it just right as you're drilling it will catch the mandrel and snap the drill bit.

Mandrel ... gotta get my jargon correct....



Steel?!? No wonder my drill couldn't bite into it. Next time I'm in the tool section I'll pick up a center punch. I really hate those rivets...
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:30 PM   #88
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HA! My $15 air hammer bit the dust after a week of removing the fiberboard on the walls, and the store I bought it from wouldn't take it back - "abused" . Don't really want to buy another $15 tool if its going to break like that. I'd easily pay twice or three times that for one that'll last for the whole conversion....
I've de-riveted a few buses and my $20 one is still good. I think I did wear one out, but I can't remember.
A really NICE one is still only like $30 or so.
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:37 PM   #89
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For someone that is more of a visual learner, is there a video floating around that shows how to remove the rivets with the angel-grinder and air-hammer method? It would be super appreciated!
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:05 PM   #90
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For someone that is more of a visual learner, is there a video floating around that shows how to remove the rivets with the angel-grinder and air-hammer method? It would be super appreciated!
This guy copied my method! lol

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Old 07-18-2018, 06:19 PM   #91
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I'm glad mine was screws, wait it didn't matter, I paid someone else to remove them. Wish my inside roof looked that clean.
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:21 PM   #92
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I'm glad mine was screws, wait it didn't matter, I paid someone else to remove them. Wish my inside roof looked that clean.
I do them for free. For FUN.
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:28 PM   #93
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I do them for free. For FUN.
You do know I just bought a BB, you're welcome to come back up here.
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:38 PM   #94
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If you bring it down here, the rivets will be gone in an hour or two.
Buy me a sixer or roll a nice one.
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Old 07-19-2018, 05:43 AM   #95
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Great video!
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:09 AM   #96
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This guy copied my method! lol


This video is PERFECT. Describes exactly what I was looking for. I wish I had a bus right now so I could just get to work on it immediately!
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