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06-29-2018, 10:50 AM
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#81
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
Wow that's sooooo much work, I'm really glad my Thomas has screws holding the ceiling up
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It wasn't much work. I got them out single handedly in about three or four hours total.
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06-29-2018, 12:10 PM
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#82
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Greenwood, Indiana
Posts: 669
Year: 1999
Coachwork: New Flyer
Chassis: D45HF "Viking"
Engine: 11.1L Detroit Diesel S60
Rated Cap: 51,600
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I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".
Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.
The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
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06-29-2018, 12:14 PM
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#83
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee
I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".
Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.
The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
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Rivet shaft is called a mandrel. You should tap them out with a center or drift punch before drilling as many times the rivet is aluminum and the mandrel is steel. If you catch it just right as you're drilling it will catch the mandrel and snap the drill bit.
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06-29-2018, 12:14 PM
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#84
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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100 degrees tomorrow when I start tearing mine apart, yay
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06-29-2018, 02:52 PM
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#85
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee
I can testify to the, er, difficulty, on drilling out rivets that still have a "core".
Those that didn't have the "core" (center pin, whatever you want to call it), I was able to drill out in about 10 seconds. Start slow, then speed up the drill as head material is removed, finally, pop! the head is off.
The ones that still have that "core" (like a zit that hasn't "popped" yet), the drill bit can't settle into the channel and jumps all over the place. Chances are the bit settles off-center and you end up drilling the material behind the rivet without the whole head coming off. Not fun.
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Punch the mandrels out with a pointy bit on a $15 air hammer. Then you use a sharpened chisel bit and the rivets shear right off. I can do a whole bus in a few hours now.
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06-29-2018, 04:24 PM
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#86
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Greenwood, Indiana
Posts: 669
Year: 1999
Coachwork: New Flyer
Chassis: D45HF "Viking"
Engine: 11.1L Detroit Diesel S60
Rated Cap: 51,600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Punch the mandrels out with a pointy bit on a $15 air hammer. Then you use a sharpened chisel bit and the rivets shear right off. I can do a whole bus in a few hours now.
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HA! My $15 air hammer bit the dust after a week of removing the fiberboard on the walls, and the store I bought it from wouldn't take it back - "abused" . Don't really want to buy another $15 tool if its going to break like that. I'd easily pay twice or three times that for one that'll last for the whole conversion....
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06-29-2018, 04:27 PM
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#87
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Greenwood, Indiana
Posts: 669
Year: 1999
Coachwork: New Flyer
Chassis: D45HF "Viking"
Engine: 11.1L Detroit Diesel S60
Rated Cap: 51,600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Rivet shaft is called a mandrel. You should tap them out with a center or drift punch before drilling as many times the rivet is aluminum and the mandrel is steel. If you catch it just right as you're drilling it will catch the mandrel and snap the drill bit.
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Mandrel ... gotta get my jargon correct....
Steel?!? No wonder my drill couldn't bite into it. Next time I'm in the tool section I'll pick up a center punch. I really hate those rivets...
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06-29-2018, 04:30 PM
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#88
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkyDee
HA! My $15 air hammer bit the dust after a week of removing the fiberboard on the walls, and the store I bought it from wouldn't take it back - "abused" . Don't really want to buy another $15 tool if its going to break like that. I'd easily pay twice or three times that for one that'll last for the whole conversion....
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I've de-riveted a few buses and my $20 one is still good. I think I did wear one out, but I can't remember.
A really NICE one is still only like $30 or so.
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07-18-2018, 05:37 PM
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#89
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 76
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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For someone that is more of a visual learner, is there a video floating around that shows how to remove the rivets with the angel-grinder and air-hammer method? It would be super appreciated!
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07-18-2018, 06:05 PM
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#90
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggins
For someone that is more of a visual learner, is there a video floating around that shows how to remove the rivets with the angel-grinder and air-hammer method? It would be super appreciated!
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This guy copied my method! lol
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07-18-2018, 06:19 PM
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#91
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I'm glad mine was screws, wait it didn't matter, I paid someone else to remove them. Wish my inside roof looked that clean.
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07-18-2018, 06:21 PM
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#92
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I'm glad mine was screws, wait it didn't matter, I paid someone else to remove them. Wish my inside roof looked that clean.
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I do them for free. For FUN.
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07-18-2018, 06:28 PM
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#93
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I do them for free. For FUN.
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You do know I just bought a BB, you're welcome to come back up here.
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07-18-2018, 07:38 PM
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#94
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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If you bring it down here, the rivets will be gone in an hour or two.
Buy me a sixer or roll a nice one.
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07-19-2018, 05:43 AM
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#95
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 5
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Great video!
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07-19-2018, 10:09 AM
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#96
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 76
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
This guy copied my method! lol
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This video is PERFECT. Describes exactly what I was looking for. I wish I had a bus right now so I could just get to work on it immediately!
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