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Old 05-30-2018, 07:04 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by MambaJack View Post
I have some leftover laminate and a foam sheet at home. May just try this to see if the laminate joints buckle. That would be my main concern

Yes please! I'd like to hear your results. I personally wouldn't trust it. Even 3/8" plywood on top of the foam is going to be better and is cheap insurance.


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Interesting. I like the idea of not having the additional cost or height of plywood. What concerns would there be doing it this way? in this case, does anything get glued? Insulation to metal or laminate to insulation?

I personally like glue. PL Premium. I'd glue it all down, except for the top flooring if it's intended to float since that probable means it expands and contracts a lot depending on humidity and temperature.
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:06 AM   #12
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So, how has the no furring strip method worked for any or all of you? Now the question i have is, will the screws ran clear through the metal floor be a thermal bridge?
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Old 10-07-2018, 04:58 PM   #13
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With my plan to use linoleum flooring in my wheelchair bus, plywood that is secured, will be mandatory.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:11 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
I've got the metal floor, an inch of XPS, 3/4 inch of plywood, and then snap together "luxury" vinyl planks. So far so good! Framing under the floor didn't seem useful.
How is going without running framing under your floor? Any regrets?
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:43 PM   #15
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Year: 1997
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Originally Posted by mikeypj View Post
How is going without running framing under your floor? Any regrets?

I had initially planned to go this route, but changed my mind and went with a 2x2 frame. I didn't think the foam alone would work and feared that over time the ply would warp.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:11 AM   #16
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My floor is 3/4 plywood floating on 2 inch styrofoam insulation. No subframe. This is only the area that is walked on and has the heat pex running through it under the plywood. It's been in for over three years. I get an occasional squeak when walking on it but, no worse than a lot of old houses. No squeaks when driving.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:27 AM   #17
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I put 2" XPS down with no subframe and 5\8" tongue and groove plywood on top. I used copious amounts of PL Premium and some screws to hold it all together. 5+ years and going strong. No sagging, no squeaking.

My only regret is using the screws in the first place.
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:20 AM   #18
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I didn't use any 2x framing on my floor other then around openings where the foam would be seen. The foam is very dense and very hard to compress. We laid the foam down and went over it with 5/8 plywood. The plywood was then screwed down through the foam to the original floor. Worked great for us and the floor is very sturdy/solid.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:45 AM   #19
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I plan on laying down 3/4 plywood and laying a floating floor across it . I figured it had a plywood and rubber top before so it should work fine for me . I did go through and patch all of the seat holes . I didn't insulate cause I don't plan on using it much in winter .
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:12 PM   #20
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I put down 2" styrofoam length ways & staggered the seam line, meaning starting from the back 4ft wide piece against left wall narrower piece against rt wall then reversed for the next section forward that way there wasn't a seam the length of the bus. then i took 1 1/8" tg plywood laid crossways, {Had to trim about 4" off the ends} started 1st one butted up tight against the back then put a bead of glue in each groove before fitting in next piece then put screws in fwd edge of last piece installed. Floor feels very solid & altho I'm no engineer I think this should let the floor float enough to prevent major problems.
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