Floor prep questions

[WanderlustExistence]

Yes we will be getting the can or two for inside for sure, no spray.

Marc, that's true. We are getting "waterproof" vinyl flooring with a smart core. So I'm hoping that is a good investment and should help. I don't want anything to do with spray foam so I think I will leave the bottom as is then.

I really appreciate you all teaching me as I go. I apologize in advance for some dumb questions along the way lol.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Rustoleum makes a something that looks like paint called rust reformer. But someone told me the PAIL of rust reformer is what you want, not the spray can. It's different and significantly better.

That was probably me that told you that!

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Paint or primer will not "cover" nail holes unless the hole fills with paint first.

Good point
It should “fill” the small nail holes?

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

That was probably me that told you that!

EastCoast
So I was trying to skip the ospho type step and go straight to the rustoleum rusty metal primer. Well all ready to paint with my respirator on and happened to read instructions. Says “do not use on galvanized”. Oh boy. I am pretty sure my floor is galvanized. In googling have found that galvanized metal is very hard to paint especially with alkyd and oil based primer/paints. I think all rustoleum falls under this. Have you had experience with any paints not sticking? Anyone used The rustoleum rusty metal primer #7769 on floor?
If I go to HD get the kleen version of ospho then what primer paint do I put down? I’m doing it now and stuck. Someone please give me a push. Any method that can finish today?

[o1marc]

Treat the whole floor with Prep&Etch according to the directions, then coat with your Rustoleum metal primer.

[Tango]

What he said. You must etch galvanized (and aluminum) in order to get paint to stick.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by fadderall

EastCoast
So I was trying to skip the ospho type step and go straight to the rustoleum rusty metal primer. Well all ready to paint with my respirator on and happened to read instructions. Says “do not use on galvanized”. Oh boy. I am pretty sure my floor is galvanized. In googling have found that galvanized metal is very hard to paint especially with alkyd and oil based primer/paints. I think all rustoleum falls under this. Have you had experience with any paints not sticking? Anyone used The rustoleum rusty metal primer #7769 on floor?
If I go to HD get the kleen version of ospho then what primer paint do I put down? I’m doing it now and stuck. Someone please give me a push. Any method that can finish today?

Ospho is PERFECT for galvanized. Makes the paint STICK and treats the rust.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Others have talked about doing spray foam under the bus, but there are too many obstacles in the way to do it properly.

I was one of those saying there's too much stuff under there. And I think I've changed my mind!! I was under there with cinder blocks, 4x4 and a jack just to check my plan for lifting some of the weight off the suspension before cutting the roof off. All of my electrical, brake, etc. lines are in two nice neat bundles that run along the inboard side of the frame rails. From the frame rails to the skirts there is NOTHING. And even between the frame frames, the lines are probably +6" from the floor. Enough to get a spray nozzle in there. I might just give mine a spray from underneath.

Mine is an RE. Fuel tank area will be tricky. Front and rear axles maybe tricky too. But with a 40' bus, there's A LOT of real estate in between.

Originally Posted by ECCB

Ospho is PERFECT for galvanized. Makes the paint STICK and treats the rust.

Wander/Fadder,
I used Corroseal on my floor. I believe that Ospho is cheaper. Anywho, I "painted" my floor with the Corroseal and then painted directly over top of that with the Rustoelum. I did NOT prime. It's been pained for about a year now. I've been sliding sheet metal back and forth, dragging angle iron around, etc. The paint has taken more than just an extreme beating. Where I moved sheet metal, the paint has scrapped off of course. I don't have any peeling or flaking paint tho. And even where the floor is exposed, it is NOT rusting. And with all the rivets I have removed and e-windows that literally blow open, I get puddles on the floor. Once I'm done with all the metal work, I will give it another thorough cleaning, use what I have left of the 1 gallon jug of Corroseal just because and repaint it before spray foaming over everything.

[FunkyKoleMedina]

Originally Posted by fadderall

Good point I had not thought of that. So I will paint first. If I use a thick paint and or primer should also make the holes a bit smaller as well. I should probably put some drop cloths in the understorage to catch the drips.

Do you think the paint or primer will cover the small nails holes, or do I need to patch those too?

I would go underneath and use some aluminum tape or duct tape on the bottom of the holes to give some backing from your material. Once it dried, just peel off the tape and continue your process. Getting drop cloth all set up down there sounds like an unnecessary amount of work to accomplish the same thing imo.

You could also use JB weld putty for the floor holes. I used some on a few holes on the body, applying from the inside with masking tape on the outside to create a smooth, secure backing. Worked great!

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Treat the whole floor with Prep&Etch according to the directions, then coat with your Rustoleum metal primer.

Originally Posted by Tango

What he said. You must etch galvanized (and aluminum) in order to get paint to stick.

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Ospho is PERFECT for galvanized. Makes the paint STICK and treats the rust.

Thanks guys!
I did the prep&Etch except I already took back the Rustoleum when I got the Prep&Etch. I called Rustoleum and they recommended Bullseye 1-2-3 primer and it says galvanized metal on the label. I used that today. In looking back I think you guys are right the rusty metal primer might have been better after the etch but I think it will be fine this way. Any thoughts on Bullseye 1-2-3 good or bad? Did I screw up the floor?

I gotta start just listening to you guys.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I was one of those saying there's too much stuff under there. And I think I've changed my mind!! I was under there with cinder blocks, 4x4 and a jack just to check my plan for lifting some of the weight off the suspension before cutting the roof off. All of my electrical, brake, etc. lines are in two nice neat bundles that run along the inboard side of the frame rails. From the frame rails to the skirts there is NOTHING. And even between the frame frames, the lines are probably +6" from the floor. Enough to get a spray nozzle in there. I might just give mine a spray from underneath.

Mine is an RE. Fuel tank area will be tricky. Front and rear axles maybe tricky too. But with a 40' bus, there's A LOT of real estate in between.

Wander/Fadder,
I used Corroseal on my floor. I believe that Ospho is cheaper. Anywho, I "painted" my floor with the Corroseal and then painted directly over top of that with the Rustoelum. I did NOT prime. It's been pained for about a year now. I've been sliding sheet metal back and forth, dragging angle iron around, etc. The paint has taken more than just an extreme beating. Where I moved sheet metal, the paint has scrapped off of course. I don't have any peeling or flaking paint tho. And even where the floor is exposed, it is NOT rusting. And with all the rivets I have removed and e-windows that literally blow open, I get puddles on the floor. Once I'm done with all the metal work, I will give it another thorough cleaning, use what I have left of the 1 gallon jug of Corroseal just because and repaint it before spray foaming over everything.

I read about the corroseal here and looked into it. Looked like good stuff, but I couldnt find it local and already went down the prep and etch road.
I am anxious to see the results of that spray foam underneath. After all the videos I have watched I am still nervous about spraying it underneath. Do you think it will stick to the undercoating and years of grease or do you plan to pressure wash/degrease the whole underside? I would love to see it if you get it to work. I think its a great idea.

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by FunkyKoleMedina

I would go underneath and use some aluminum tape or duct tape on the bottom of the holes to give some backing from your material. Once it dried, just peel off the tape and continue your process. Getting drop cloth all set up down there sounds like an unnecessary amount of work to accomplish the same thing imo.

You could also use JB weld putty for the floor holes. I used some on a few holes on the body, applying from the inside with masking tape on the outside to create a smooth, secure backing. Worked great!

The tape is a good idea except there are over 100 seat holes and hundreds more nail holes. Would take me forever to find and tape them all. I just ran a few drop cloths under the bus and went for it today. Thanks.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by fadderall

Do you think it will stick to the undercoating and years of grease or do you plan to pressure wash/degrease the whole underside? I would love to see it if you get it to work. I think its a great idea.

I was going to say not a chance in hell but yeah it probably would as there are lots of crevices and things for it to "hold on to". If/when it fell off, it would do it in large chunks I would think. I don't know how "windy" it gets under there at 65 mph. Probably not too bad with mine. I have 26" side skirts. All of that said, I would take it down to the truck wash and spray it. It's not +2600 psi but it's still a pressure washer. A pocket full of quarters would be cheap insurance.

Originally Posted by fadderall

The tape is a good idea except there are over 100 seat holes and hundreds more nail holes. Would take me forever to find and tape them all. I just ran a few drop cloths under the bus and went for it today. Thanks.

I would have taped the seat bolts. Those are the biggest and uniformest. Except for the fuel tank and axles, the rest are fairly easy to find. I wouldn't worry about the ground getting dirty but then mine is parked in a gravel lot.



Anywho, did your paint stuff fill the seat bolts?

[fadderall]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I was going to say not a chance in hell but yeah it probably would as there are lots of crevices and things for it to "hold on to". If/when it fell off, it would do it in large chunks I would think. I don't know how "windy" it gets under there at 65 mph. Probably not too bad with mine. I have 26" side skirts. All of that said, I would take it down to the truck wash and spray it. It's not +2600 psi but it's still a pressure washer. A pocket full of quarters would be cheap insurance.

I would have taped the seat bolts. Those are the biggest and uniformest. Except for the fuel tank and axles, the rest are fairly easy to find. I wouldn't worry about the ground getting dirty but then mine is parked in a gravel lot.



Anywho, did your paint stuff fill the seat bolts?

I should of taped but just did it. The Bullseye 123 went on pretty good. 2 coats took 2 gallons. The paint filled some of the nail holes but not seat bolt. Im going to put the wet patch over each one anyway. The good thing is that the white primer makes ALL the holes really stand out.

[Ninjakitty]

I used water proof a/c ducting tape to cover my bolt holes and nail holes. Looks good.from.under the bus as well.

I'll probably throw se sealant on the underside of the holes as I wire wheel and paint the underside.

[WanderlustExistence]

What if you don't have rust issues? Do you still need to use something other than rustoleum?

[Ninjakitty]

I'd only use rust converter on rust. Of not, just some Rustoleum should be fine

Originally Posted by WanderlustExistence

What if you don't have rust issues? Do you still need to use something other than rustoleum?

[WanderlustExistence]

Originally Posted by Ninjakitty

I'd only use rust converter on rust. Of not, just some Rustoleum should be fine

Thanks so much. I wasn't sure and saw almost everyone using the converter, so I was scared to do just rustoleum but I think it will be fine too. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by WanderlustExistence

What if you don't have rust issues? Do you still need to use something other than rustoleum?

You'll need a cage; for the unicorn you've caught.

[WanderlustExistence]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

You'll need a cage; for the unicorn you've caught.

Our floors are soooo nice. We have a couple rust spots on the window area and the escape hatch but the floors look great! Just need to be cleaned up. I think I very well may have got a unicorn!