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07-27-2018, 11:03 AM
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#201
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Mine felt ok. Then I pulled the plywood up. Nowhere near as bad as soe I've seen (in person and here) but certainly not rust free. What state did yours come from?
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07-27-2018, 01:17 PM
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#202
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
You'll need a cage; for the unicorn you've caught.
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My 92 Ward had no rust. My 04 IC has zero. My 99 Freightshaker doesn't have any either.
Just gotta buy outside the rust belt and even then a bit of luck helps. 
The one I got from Colorado did have some floor rust and a little on the body, but nothing terrible. Just superficial, mostly.
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07-27-2018, 01:53 PM
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#203
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 73
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas Build
Chassis: International
Engine: 466E
Rated Cap: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Mine felt ok. Then I pulled the plywood up. Nowhere near as bad as soe I've seen (in person and here) but certainly not rust free. What state did yours come from?
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Mine has been a school board, Florida bus all its life. So I got lucky.
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07-27-2018, 02:06 PM
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#204
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderlustExistence
Mine has been a school board, Florida bus all its life. So I got lucky.
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I've seen plenty of rusty FL buses. LOTS of saltwater all around FL.
Inner FL doesn't have rust issues, just moldy buses around here.
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07-30-2018, 07:10 AM
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#205
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderlustExistence
Mine has been a school board, Florida bus all its life. So I got lucky.
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Except for the drive back, I would have preferred an AZ, NV, NM bus.
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07-30-2018, 09:40 AM
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#206
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 73
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas Build
Chassis: International
Engine: 466E
Rated Cap: 66
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Yeah, guess I lucked out. The only real rust is on escape hatch and a tad on the windows.
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07-30-2018, 01:42 PM
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#207
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadderall
EastCoast
So I was trying to skip the ospho type step and go straight to the rustoleum rusty metal primer. Well all ready to paint with my respirator on and happened to read instructions. Says “do not use on galvanized”. Oh boy. I am pretty sure my floor is galvanized. In googling have found that galvanized metal is very hard to paint especially with alkyd and oil based primer/paints. I think all rustoleum falls under this. Have you had experience with any paints not sticking? Anyone used The rustoleum rusty metal primer #7769 on floor?
If I go to HD get the kleen version of ospho then what primer paint do I put down? I’m doing it now and stuck. Someone please give me a push. Any method that can finish today?
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We used it on galvanized accidentally and freaked out. Then we read WHY they say that. Its because it might not stick. Our stuck just fine; we were unable remove it so we moved on. But we DID ospho first, and that could well be what made it stick. Not sure.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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07-30-2018, 03:00 PM
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#208
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins
We used it on galvanized accidentally and freaked out. Then we read WHY they say that. Its because it might not stick. Our stuck just fine; we were unable remove it so we moved on. But we DID ospho first, and that could well be what made it stick. Not sure.
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Ospho is commonly used to prep galvanized surfaces for paint.
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07-30-2018, 03:02 PM
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#209
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WanderlustExistence
Yeah, guess I lucked out. The only real rust is on escape hatch and a tad on the windows.
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Probably because roof hatches and windows on most school buses leak.
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07-31-2018, 01:39 PM
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#210
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2martins
We used it on galvanized accidentally and freaked out. Then we read WHY they say that. Its because it might not stick. Our stuck just fine; we were unable remove it so we moved on. But we DID ospho first, and that could well be what made it stick. Not sure.
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I’ve since used etch and prep (same as ospho) and then bullseye primer. I was going to use the rustoleum rusty metal primer instead of ospho so glad I read instructions for once. 
The ospho or etch and prep does make that stick. I think it etchs the galvanized coating down so that it will stick. Yours should be good. I would also think that if the floor has rust all over (as I have seen in many threads) then the rustoleum rusty metal primer would work without ospho because the rust all over means A. It’s not galvanized or B. The galvanic coating has already been sacrificed to the rust gods and no longer will interfere with the paint adhesion.
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07-31-2018, 04:36 PM
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#211
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadderall
I’ve since used etch and prep (same as ospho) and then bullseye primer. I was going to use the rustoleum rusty metal primer instead of ospho so glad I read instructions for once.
The ospho or etch and prep does make that stick. I think it etchs the galvanized coating down so that it will stick. Yours should be good. I would also think that if the floor has rust all over (as I have seen in many threads) then the rustoleum rusty metal primer would work without ospho because the rust all over means A. It’s not galvanized or B. The galvanic coating has already been sacrificed to the rust gods and no longer will interfere with the paint adhesion. |
Rusty metal primer doesn't convert rust. It will stick to rusty metal, but its not a one step cure all for rusty floors.
Ospho is cheap enough that I just mop it onto the floor. Rusty or not.
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08-01-2018, 06:50 AM
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#212
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Ospho is cheap enough that I just mop it onto the floor. Rusty or not.
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Cheap insurance.
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08-01-2018, 01:21 PM
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#213
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Cheap insurance.
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In auto body shop class after high school they had us use it on EVERY bit of bare metal we came across.
Cheap insurance!
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08-01-2018, 04:33 PM
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#214
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 29
Year: 2000
Chassis: Bluebird All American RE
Engine: Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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How much time should I devote to removing the remainder of the goo/sealant/adhesive that was left from the old subfloor? Been fighting with it for way too long, it's this really nasty grey stuff that really doesn't want to come up.
Should I send the effort to get the rest of it? Or should I just prime and paint over it?
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08-02-2018, 07:21 AM
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#215
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekyoung
How much time should I devote to removing the remainder of the goo/sealant/adhesive that was left from the old subfloor? Been fighting with it for way too long, it's this really nasty grey stuff that really doesn't want to come up.
Should I send the effort to get the rest of it? Or should I just prime and paint over it?
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Heat gun from Harbor Freight.
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08-02-2018, 09:24 AM
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#216
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 73
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas Build
Chassis: International
Engine: 466E
Rated Cap: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Probably because roof hatches and windows on most school buses leak.
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Yes, I'm not surprised or upset about it.
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08-02-2018, 12:42 PM
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#217
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Heat gun from Harbor Freight.
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I've not found anything gooey on a bus that aircraft stripper or a wire wheel on a drill won't remove!
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08-02-2018, 01:04 PM
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#218
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I've not found anything gooey on a bus that aircraft stripper or a wire wheel on a drill won't remove!
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Mine came up with just puling on it and using the heat gun. Wire wheel will throw rubber snot everywhere. Chemicals don't scare me but they can be messy. Xylene removed the "rubber cement" that covered the wheel wheels after removing the mat.
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08-02-2018, 01:08 PM
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#219
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Mine came up with just puling on it and using the heat gun. Wire wheel will throw rubber snot everywhere. Chemicals don't scare me but they can be messy. Xylene removed the "rubber cement" that covered the wheel wheels after removing the mat.
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Hmmm we must have different goo's to deal with.
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08-02-2018, 01:28 PM
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#220
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Hmmm we must have different goo's to deal with.
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When I mentioned the heat gun to EK I was thinking of the weather striping stuff I had along the walls and wheel wells at the floor. It was 1/2" maybe 3/4" weather striping of some sort or another. It did NOT like coming up just scrapping it and pulling. Heat gun worked great.
The rubber mat stuff glued to the top of the wheel wells left behind what looked like rubber cement. The xylene poured on paper towels and left to soak for 2 or 3 minutes worked wonders. Went back with a rag and the rubber cement wiped off easy peezy.
Decals and the like on the outside of the bus would be good wire wheel candidates.
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