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Old 07-14-2017, 01:35 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus View Post
Interesting! If you use it, let us know how it went.


Will do. Probably using a variation for the windows, 3M offers a UV stable 4000 as well. Not as strong but it'll do just fine


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Old 12-28-2017, 05:20 PM   #122
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What about Tite Seal self adhesive waterproof flashing? Tough, sticks to everything, rubber based and waterproof. Thoughts?
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Old 12-28-2017, 08:34 PM   #123
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Seems like an interesting option, Earp. I don't know how much it costs? Or how easy/hard it is to manipulate into covering only small areas? It may very well make a great sealant, if it's easy to cut into small pieces and apply that way instead of in large sheets.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:26 PM   #124
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It can be cut to size with a utility knife. Link to product below. On the fence about it. I may go the nylon fastener with sealant route. I dont want a failure after the fact.

http://www.cofair.com/window.aspx
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Old 12-28-2017, 10:10 PM   #125
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Spoke to a few folks in the marine/manufacturing industry, as well as a 3M rep. -- They all stand by this 5200 stuff. Bonds to everything permanently, even metal.
You may need to use their primer too:

Quote:
When using 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200 with metals, it may be
necessary to prime the surface to achieve adequate adhesion and durability of the
bond. 3M Scotch-Weld Structural Adhesive Primer EC-1945 B/A may be used
for priming of most metals.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5...-cure-5200.pdf
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Old 01-21-2018, 09:36 AM   #126
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Here are a few pics from this afternoon.
Can you explain to me your process here? My floors are maybe 65-70% covered in adhesive. I spent the day yesterday with the wire brush on the drill getting the adhesive off the wheel wells, but I feel like there has to be an easier way?
We saw on a thread there's really no point in spending all that time removing the adhesive when you're just gonna paint over it, but we were thinking we want a smooth as possible surface before priming. What are you painting with in these photos? Our floor has virtually no rust but that adhesive is really stuck on.
Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:19 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by mapletwag View Post
Can you explain to me your process here? My floors are maybe 65-70% covered in adhesive. I spent the day yesterday with the wire brush on the drill getting the adhesive off the wheel wells, but I feel like there has to be an easier way?
We saw on a thread there's really no point in spending all that time removing the adhesive when you're just gonna paint over it, but we were thinking we want a smooth as possible surface before priming. What are you painting with in these photos? Our floor has virtually no rust but that adhesive is really stuck on.
Thanks!
If there is no rust you can leave the adhesive. Prime over it. The primer will stick where it needs to and the whole lot will be covered anyway.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:09 PM   #128
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If you do want the adhesive off a side grinder with a cup brush could be your best friend.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:28 PM   #129
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So....I left the adhesive. Scrubbed the floor, rinsed twice and let it dry out completely. Put one coat of Rustoleum primer, plugged the bolt holes with plastic fasteners and sikaflex. Just finished with another coat of primer. Looks good and the primer has bonded well with the adhesive. We plan to plywood on top of metal floor and spray foam under the bus due to my 61 height and not wanted to split the bus in half for a roof raise. Ill probably put a thin layer of foam between the plywood and metal floor or vibration reduction and the fill in and gaps. Im happy with the results.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:41 PM   #130
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You people belong in a tree. You're all nuts.

I was going to say Y'all are crazy but I can see your nuts.


I have a welder, sooooo...... I'll plug weld my holes if I ever get a bus.

If anyone uses the aluminum foil duct tape, you can spray automotive undercoat on the holes from underneath to seal water out. Flex Seal will work also.
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