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Old 04-22-2018, 08:37 AM   #161
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Okay I read the whole thread. Here is my plan.
And I have options and questions. Please tell me where I am wrong or could improve.
The floor is bare with holes and still has the one front partition with the grab rail by the door installed. I want to use this partition still but am unsure if I want to build up around it or remove it. If I remove it and then it is 2” higher because of the new floor then that messes up the railing grab bar placement which is why I want to keep it. I don’t want to have to move where the railing is on the partition.

Clean and mop floor with a degreaser like awesome.
Use rustoleum rust reformer on all rusted areas.
? Do I need to do non rusted areas too?
? Do I need to paint the floor if it is going to be covered with lnsulation and wood frame?
Plug holes with the elastomeric caulking I found ( maybe in addition to plastic plugs like I have seen recomended earlier or aluminum rv tape that I alreday have from my Shasta redo)
Use the auto rubber undercoating spray cans for the bottom under the holes.
Build frame around bus floor with cross braces every 2 feet and since we will re use some seats we need to make sure 2x4 or 2x6 is in spots where we will re bolt the legs in. . Use the foam insulation sheets to fit in the framed floor.
1/2 inch plywood.
Vinyl floor glue.
Vinyl floor roll.
Edge trim. ? 1/4 round nailed down and glued to wall.

What sucks is then that will raise the height of the seats on the new floor to where they will no longer rest on the metal rail on the wall so I will need to build up where I need the seats to rest by putting wood in and screwing it to the metal rail the reason I want to use the seats is I have three small children and the bus seats will act as our eating booth and they have the integrated child restraints in them to keep them safer when driving.
I need ideas and guidance please. 🙏🏻
I do not plan on any changes to the ceiling or walls. We only use the camper during nice weather and for 1 to 2 weeks at a time you basically want something comfortable to take our naps in while doing road trips and like the idea of being able to move furniture that I need to move from my families houses back to our house in a different state.

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Old 04-22-2018, 09:06 AM   #162
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To fill the holes on my floor I bought a box of 5/32 x 7/8 washers and a couple of boxes of rivets. They were about $30. total.




I put a rivet and washer tru the top of the floor and someone went under the bus and held a washer on the bottom. I crimped the rivets and it sandwiched the washers over the hole. Took about 1-hour

There was about 5-10 holes that were over beams of exhaust that I could not get a washer on the bottom. I will probably epoxy pennies to these. lol
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:10 AM   #163
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You are right about the Chair Rail issue. I have a similar problem as I'd like to re-use two of my original seats.

I'm not happy with your "wood" idea though, I don't think wood is strong enough in this situation.

There are two other ways to deal with it.

1. Have someone shorten the original legs by the thickness of the floor raise. That can be done quite easily but it would lower the seat height a little.

2. Have metal spacers made for the chair rail. Again, this would be pretty cheap and you might be able to do it yourself with a drill press and some bar-stock. This would retain the original seat height.

Use Grade 8 bolts for both the chair rail and through the floor, and put some big washers under the floor. Better still, cut some small plates to spread the load between the underside of the floor and the nut.

You can also add seat belts when you do this. One of the reasons I want to make a dinette from the OEM seats is that they are much stronger than anything you can build from 2 x 4s and plywood, and they are the seats the passengers will travel in.
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:30 PM   #164
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floor thoughts/questions

I read this thread and I guess my big questions are these.

1)why wouldn't you just get down to the level rubber floor, clean it really well, then lay the subfloor over top of it... maybe a layer of insulation first, but rubber has insulation qualities of its own.
2) as far as the hole sealing... I assume you all are referring to the ones left behind by the removed seats. If so why wouldn't you just put the lock tight on the bolts you removed the grind the head off of them?

Maybe I am missing an obvious fact.. I'm a newbie after all.

P.s- My particular bus has no rust. If it had I can understand taking it down to metal
p.p.s- has any one looked to see what the "R" isolation factor for rhino liner is for the subfloor?
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:44 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyInTN View Post
I read this thread and I guess my big questions are these.

1)why wouldn't you just get down to the level rubber floor, clean it really well, then lay the subfloor over top of it... maybe a layer of insulation first, but rubber has insulation qualities of its own.
2) as far as the hole sealing... I assume you all are referring to the ones left behind by the removed seats. If so why wouldn't you just put the lock tight on the bolts you removed the grind the head off of them?

Maybe I am missing an obvious fact.. I'm a newbie after all.

P.s- My particular bus has no rust. If it had I can understand taking it down to metal
p.p.s- has any one looked to see what the "R" isolation factor for rhino liner is for the subfloor?
The factory flooring often looks ok and its rotten and rusty underneath. Its also pretty smelly. Headroom is at a premium so removing what's there helps in that regard too. If you only have the rubber floor and no plywood underneath its a lot easier.

The bolts that hold the seats have a nut underneath the bus. They don't go into a threaded hole in the floor.

Rhino liner has no insulation properties. There's simply no substitute for real insulation.
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Old 04-24-2018, 06:45 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyInTN View Post
I read this thread and I guess my big questions are these.

1)why wouldn't you just get down to the level rubber floor, clean it really well, then lay the subfloor over top of it... maybe a layer of insulation first, but rubber has insulation qualities of its own.
2) as far as the hole sealing... I assume you all are referring to the ones left behind by the removed seats. If so why wouldn't you just put the lock tight on the bolts you removed the grind the head off of them?

Maybe I am missing an obvious fact.. I'm a newbie after all.

P.s- My particular bus has no rust. If it had I can understand taking it down to metal
p.p.s- has any one looked to see what the "R" isolation factor for rhino liner is for the subfloor?
What you are missing is two things:

1. Most times the OEM plywood has to come out and the floor rust remediated. Occasionally there is none, but that is rare.

2. Most people need to preserve as much ceiling height as possible, so taking it down to the metal and adding insulation and a new sub-floor is optimum.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:49 PM   #167
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What About Henry's Wet Patch 209 For Bolt Holes

Anyone tried this product? Says it can do holes up to 1/4" or 2" long without reinforcement. My holes are about 1/4". This stuff is for sealing roofs (including metal) and even can be applied under water. Its like the roof tar stuff.
I know someone on here was saying they did a bus and used the Henry's roof tar under plywood to cover the whole floor. Sorry, the search sucks I cant find the original post.
Anyone tried Henry's Wet Patch XR209?
Anyone think it will or will not work?

I am thinking I put a dollop in each hole and some in between then use a putty knife to smear across both holes.

What order would you apply?
scrape, rust reform, patch holes, then prime/paint?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Henry-Compa...alant/50255591

Thanks guys
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:37 AM   #168
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I am thinking I put a dollop in each hole and some in between then use a putty knife to smear across both holes.
No clue on that. Might need to have something underneath even if it's just duct tape to keep it from dripping?

Quote:
What order would you apply?
scrape, rust reform, patch holes, then prime/paint?
No. I would scrape, rust reform, paint, then patch if you are using the rubberized stuff. I do NOT look at the link but I'd worry about paint sticking to it. Paint will stick to bare metal and the rubberized stuff should stick to it. I'd worry about the paint peeling as the top layer.


Just my 2¢.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:04 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
No clue on that. Might need to have something underneath even if it's just duct tape to keep it from dripping?

No. I would scrape, rust reform, paint, then patch if you are using the rubberized stuff. I do NOT look at the link but I'd worry about paint sticking to it. Paint will stick to bare metal and the rubberized stuff should stick to it. I'd worry about the paint peeling as the top layer.


Just my 2¢.
Good point I had not thought of that. So I will paint first. If I use a thick paint and or primer should also make the holes a bit smaller as well. I should probably put some drop cloths in the understorage to catch the drips.

Do you think the paint or primer will cover the small nails holes, or do I need to patch those too?
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:28 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by fadderall View Post
Good point I had not thought of that. So I will paint first. If I use a thick paint and or primer should also make the holes a bit smaller as well. I should probably put some drop cloths in the understorage to catch the drips.

Do you think the paint or primer will cover the small nails holes, or do I need to patch those too?
Paint or primer will not "cover" nail holes unless the hole fills with paint first.
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