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Old 05-01-2017, 10:36 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Here are a few pics from this afternoon.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
I'd have a hard time saying if there'd be a reaction. Considering the pennies are largely steel electroplated with copper, I just don't know enough about metalurgy to venture a guess. I don't think copper is a reactive metal, and it's already on steel penny blanks.

Someone plugged holes in their floors with pennies a while back and I thought it was a cute and useful idea. They did use epoxy of some sort. I'd think pennies would be pretty good because the copper coating would keep the penny from rusting. Not that our pennies are best used to plug holes or anything. They do make cheap washers.
They're zinc, coated in copper and all copper up to 1982.

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Here's the history, according to the U.S. Mint:

From 1837 to 1857, the cent was made of bronze (95 percent copper, and five percent tin and zinc).
From 1857, the cent was 88 percent copper and 12 percent nickel, giving the coin a whitish appearance.
The cent was again bronze (95 percent copper, and five percent tin and zinc) from 1864 to 1962, except: In 1943, the coin's composition was changed to zinc-coated steel. This change was only for the year 1943 and was due to the critical use of copper for the war effort. However, a limited number of copper pennies were minted that year.
In 1962, the cent's tin content, which was quite small, was removed. That made the metal composition of the cent 95 percent copper and 5 percent zinc.
The alloy remained 95 percent copper and 5 percent zinc until 1982, when the composition was changed to 97.5 percent zinc and 2.5 percent copper (copper-plated zinc). Cents of both compositions appeared in that year.
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:26 PM   #23
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Ok, good history lesson. So what's the verdict? Are pennies reactive when placed over holes in a steel floor? I still have no idea. I'd guess no reaction, but that's just a guess.

Sometimes I find old pennies, not necessarily the same as modern plugging the holes in your floor pennies. They don't seem reactive with anything no matter where I find them.

Or have I missed the point that pennies are not made of steel? I should have known it wasn't steel. It's very easy to make them into washers. Buying a washer used to cost a nickel.

Apparently zink isn't real valuable if they can use it to fill in pennies. Any metalurgists want to weigh in on its reactive nature?

I've use JB Weld to seal a hole in a gas tank. I probably didn't have a penny for the hole. Actually if I had put a penny over the hole I knew my x-wife would go take it and I'd have a hole in my tank again.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:10 AM   #24
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Fuzz

I Corrosealed my floor today actually...

1. Yes, all that grinding was worth it and the more rust you can get off, the better. In regards to wiping it down with mineral spirits, it says on the bottle to not use mineral spirits. I went with Krud Kutter instead from Home Depot and it was perfect.

2. I haven't sealed the holes yet but now that the floor is done, I was planning on sealing it with Gorilla Construction Adhesive. Hope it's a good solution.

Gorilla 9 oz. Construction Adhesive-8010003 - The Home Depot

3. I grinded/cut out the caulking and will re-caulk it with the Gorilla stuff now that it has been Corrosealed. You want to do it after you Corroseal since you may cut the caulk off and find rust hidden under there. I basically mopped the floor with Corroseal and got every crack covered.

*Note - Trim out the edges first and then take a roller and do the rest of the floor. I did it the other way around and just started rolling and realized that it wasn't filling in the sides, so after it dried a bit, I went around the edge with a foam brush and got in the cracks. Very slippery!

The stuff comes out just like milk. Super thin. So just take and lather it on and go over it a few times to layer it.

Good luck!
Marvin!!! Thanks, this is great! This is exactly the sort of thing I was hoping for. Thanks also for the info about Krud Kutter. I'll check it out. Super helpful, thank you again!!
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:14 AM   #25
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I've use JB Weld to seal a hole in a gas tank. I probably didn't have a penny for the hole. Actually if I had put a penny over the hole I knew my x-wife would go take it and I'd have a hole in my tank again.
I mean, it's funny, but it's not.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:53 AM   #26
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I used bondo hair for my small holes up to 1 inch. Very easy to apply and the next day they were totally cured. I still have to weld a couple larger holes on my floor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:09 AM   #27
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Hi all. I am reading some really good things and something I fear I am going to have to tackle at some point soon.

A couple of things if I may add to this. I have a buddy who is really good at body and paint. He uses panel bond to bond body panels onto cars. I think that would be a really good option over JB Weld or some epoxies. the panel bond is meant to take the abuse of everyday driving.

also another product to seal the floor would be Por15. Not sure exactly how it works but it does and very well. It will actually stop the rust and doesn't let it proceed further.

Just my .02 worth.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:20 AM   #28
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Hi all. I am reading some really good things and something I fear I am going to have to tackle at some point soon.

A couple of things if I may add to this. I have a buddy who is really good at body and paint. He uses panel bond to bond body panels onto cars. I think that would be a really good option over JB Weld or some epoxies. the panel bond is meant to take the abuse of everyday driving.

also another product to seal the floor would be Por15. Not sure exactly how it works but it does and very well. It will actually stop the rust and doesn't let it proceed further.

Just my .02 worth.
WOW I have never heard of Por15, wish I would have discovered it sooner. For the panel bond, do you think it might be able to patch tiny pin holes that we couldn't get welded? We welded as much as possible but still tiny holes. What I have found on the panel bond is it is for putting a "patch" on with another piece. I don't want to use caulking, so I'm wondering if this would work alone.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:30 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Zombiepatrol View Post
WOW I have never heard of Por15, wish I would have discovered it sooner. For the panel bond, do you think it might be able to patch tiny pin holes that we couldn't get welded? We welded as much as possible but still tiny holes. What I have found on the panel bond is it is for putting a "patch" on with another piece. I don't want to use caulking, so I'm wondering if this would work alone.
Yes the panel bond will cover small pin holes. It is sand able and paint able. When my body guy was doing the 1/4 panels on my racecar he put it on a little think and spread it out so it would fill in any gaps. He could then sand and use filler. But a lot less filler, the panel bond attaches better than filler.

Por15 is some pretty crazy stuff.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:36 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Zombiepatrol View Post
WOW I have never heard of Por15, wish I would have discovered it sooner. For the panel bond, do you think it might be able to patch tiny pin holes that we couldn't get welded? We welded as much as possible but still tiny holes. What I have found on the panel bond is it is for putting a "patch" on with another piece. I don't want to use caulking, so I'm wondering if this would work alone.
Por15 is good but really expensive.
Rust Reformer is AWESOME stuff, and is around half the price-

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Reformer.../dp/B002KIAYCY
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