Floor prep questions

[Hobotang]

Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus

Interesting! If you use it, let us know how it went.

Will do. Probably using a variation for the windows, 3M offers a UV stable 4000 as well. Not as strong but it'll do just fine


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[Earp_C]

What about Tite Seal self adhesive waterproof flashing? Tough, sticks to everything, rubber based and waterproof. Thoughts?

[FuzzWantsABus]

Seems like an interesting option, Earp. I don't know how much it costs? Or how easy/hard it is to manipulate into covering only small areas? It may very well make a great sealant, if it's easy to cut into small pieces and apply that way instead of in large sheets.

[Earp_C]

It can be cut to size with a utility knife. Link to product below. On the fence about it. I may go the nylon fastener with sealant route. I don’t want a failure after the fact.

http://www.cofair.com/window.aspx

[diannetea]

Originally Posted by Hobotang

Spoke to a few folks in the marine/manufacturing industry, as well as a 3M rep. -- They all stand by this 5200 stuff. Bonds to everything permanently, even metal.

You may need to use their primer too:

When using 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200 with metals, it may be
necessary to prime the surface to achieve adequate adhesion and durability of the
bond. 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Structural Adhesive Primer EC-1945 B/A may be used
for priming of most metals.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5...-cure-5200.pdf

[mapletwag]

Originally Posted by Marvin

Here are a few pics from this afternoon.

Can you explain to me your process here? My floors are maybe 65-70% covered in adhesive. I spent the day yesterday with the wire brush on the drill getting the adhesive off the wheel wells, but I feel like there has to be an easier way?
We saw on a thread there's really no point in spending all that time removing the adhesive when you're just gonna paint over it, but we were thinking we want a smooth as possible surface before priming. What are you painting with in these photos? Our floor has virtually no rust but that adhesive is really stuck on.
Thanks!

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by mapletwag

Can you explain to me your process here? My floors are maybe 65-70% covered in adhesive. I spent the day yesterday with the wire brush on the drill getting the adhesive off the wheel wells, but I feel like there has to be an easier way?
We saw on a thread there's really no point in spending all that time removing the adhesive when you're just gonna paint over it, but we were thinking we want a smooth as possible surface before priming. What are you painting with in these photos? Our floor has virtually no rust but that adhesive is really stuck on.
Thanks!

If there is no rust you can leave the adhesive. Prime over it. The primer will stick where it needs to and the whole lot will be covered anyway.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

If you do want the adhesive off a side grinder with a cup brush could be your best friend.

[Earp_C]

So....I left the adhesive. Scrubbed the floor, rinsed twice and let it dry out completely. Put one coat of Rustoleum primer, plugged the bolt holes with plastic fasteners and sikaflex. Just finished with another coat of primer. Looks good and the primer has bonded well with the adhesive. We plan to plywood on top of metal floor and spray foam under the bus due to my 6’1” height and not wanted to split the bus in half for a roof raise. I’ll probably put a thin layer of foam between the plywood and metal floor or vibration reduction and the fill in and gaps. I’m happy with the results.

[ben2go]

You people belong in a tree. You're all nuts.

I was going to say Y'all are crazy but I can see your nuts.


I have a welder, sooooo...... I'll plug weld my holes if I ever get a bus.

If anyone uses the aluminum foil duct tape, you can spray automotive undercoat on the holes from underneath to seal water out. Flex Seal will work also.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Hey you?
Cut out the TREE stuff.
I think I was the first one to propose the foam under side verses inside?
All,the muck under side needs to scrubbed,pressure washed to,get rid of the gunk and make sure you,know or replace or move any wiring that is going to foamed

[Robin97396]

You'd also do well to tac weld some chicken wire up in the larg flat areas. Are you planning to spray it with undercoating?

[Earp_C]

The plan was spray foam. It already has undercoating from factory. With this I will have 2.25” of head clearance. After the 2” in the ceiling, thermal barrier and finish. I could throw 1” in the floor under the ply and good down to 1.25” head room. That’d be tight!

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

Hey you?
Cut out the TREE stuff.
I think I was the first one to propose the foam under side verses inside?
All,the muck under side needs to scrubbed,pressure washed to,get rid of the gunk and make sure you,know or replace or move any wiring that is going to foamed

Haha. I will for now.


You were from what I read.

If you're referring to my post, I didn't mention foam undercoating. I was speaking of the rubberized auto undercoating over the seat bolt holes with aluminum foil tape on the inside. if the foil tape ever moves, the undercoating usually stays in place and keeps the holes sealed. It has worked for me with no issues, except I used crappy silver Duck tape, not true foil duct tap.

[o1marc]

When talking about 2" of insulation in the ceiling, isn't that going up in the cavities between the ribs and not losing any headroom from it. Or are some of you adding even more, or adding to the outside of the ribs?

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Not referring to any bodies post.
Whether we do insulation (regardless of type or application) there is NO way that seperate said the bus skin from the bus body?
No matter what direction any one chooses the floor level connection will always be steel on steel and effect what is done in any bus floor?
I also think about carrying around and underpinning my bus to heat the underside of the bus,the engine bloc, water tanks and through radiant heat the entire metal of the bus?
Heat rises and if we are already trying to heat these things why not use there steel bodies. Especially the flooring to our benefitIf we are parked for awhile.
A dual fuel torpedoe heater with some underpinning? I think would do wonders because once the heat radiates into the flooring and up into the walls then even a plain old bus becomes a radiator? Keeps the engine,tranny,rear end warm and ready to go.
Never plan on living in that climate but have research the option of using a diesel or kerosene or propane heater and keep the fumes and or moisture out.
This is a cheaper solution but in my mind if I needed to live in cold climates then a duel fuel diesel/kerosene heater with some underpinning that I could shut off and drive away from might be it?

Heat rises? Many advantages from from heating the bottom and using it to our advantage?
Call me crazy all you want but we have metal skins that can really suck in the summer but why not use them to our advantage in the winter?

[BowserJournal]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I've got a BUNCH of scrap steel. My plan is to cut little pieces of 18ga and metal glue them over the holes from the seats.

I was going to do the same thing but use rivets instead. I like your idea better. What are you using epoxy,liquid nails, etc?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BowserJournal

I was going to do the same thing but use rivets instead. I like your idea better. What are you using epoxy,liquid nails, etc?

I never got around to it on that bus, but an epoxy would be my choice.
I'll be stripping the floor out of my new shorty some day, and that will be what I'll do.

[FunkyKoleMedina]

Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus

Marvin!!! Thanks, this is great! This is exactly the sort of thing I was hoping for. Thanks also for the info about Krud Kutter. I'll check it out. Super helpful, thank you again!!

I used denatured alcohol after I did all my grinding, worked great. Cleaned really well and evaporated quickly. Corroseal worked as it should. In case some of you have some around like I did, might save a trip to the store and some $$

[FunkyKoleMedina]

and "safer"