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Old 06-08-2017, 01:57 PM   #81
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Yeah, I was wondering about the statute a little until the BS started piling up. My hip waders are in the other bus, of course. I've gotten in trouble for exhibiting humor without adding the "ha ha" at the end of the line. Some people get it and some people think your nucking futz.

I think the plastic with a dab of caulk would be very adequate for plugging the bolt holes. If I had holes in my floor I'd probably do it that way. Welding is good but you spend a lot of time on your knees and then you've still got to climb underneath and dab each plugged hole with something to keep it from rusting on the bottom side of the floor.

My knees would be aching for a week, so yeah I'd go with the plastic. 5 minutes and you're done. The screw holes are a different matter unless you can find tiny plastic thingies. A dab of caulk pretty well covers a screw hole.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:04 PM   #82
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Plastic is fine. Its dissimilar METALS that cause galvanic corrosion. Are we still confused on this??
Copper, Aluminum- those kinds of materials react with steel. Plastic will not.
Little scraps of steel could be glued in place and forgotten, too.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:07 PM   #83
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Some people get it and some people think your nucking futz.
He only has Midwest as his location. Had he a state or city I could have had a good time.

They wouldn't be wrong but that's another story.

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I think the plastic with a dab of caulk would be very adequate for plugging the bolt holes. If I had holes in my floor I'd probably do it that way. Welding is good but you spend a lot of time on your knees and then you've still got to climb underneath and dab each plugged hole with something to keep it from rusting on the bottom side of the floor.
Yeah, I'm going to have to remember to get a rattle can of black for the bottom of my patches. Hopefully I can get to them all without having to drop the differential or someone equally as stupid.

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My knees would be aching for a week, so yeah I'd go with the plastic. 5 minutes and you're done. The screw holes are a different matter unless you can find tiny plastic thingies. A dab of caulk pretty well covers a screw hole.
I would sit or lie on my belly but yeah, I hear you.

I'm sticking with the spray foam idea.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:08 PM   #84
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Plastic is fine. Its dissimilar METALS that cause galvanic corrosion. Are we still confused on this??
Copper, Aluminum- those kinds of materials react with steel. Plastic will not.
Little scraps of steel could be glued in place and forgotten, too.
This guy... confusing everyone with facts.






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Old 06-08-2017, 02:51 PM   #85
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The first floor I ever replaced I used Blackjack roof repair to seal the steel floor before laying down new plywood. The holes go away. That bus still leaks because of the type of windows it has and the plywood is rotting again, but that steel floor is as good as the day I put that tar on it. When I went under the bus I could see each little screw hole had about a 2" long tar worm hanging from it. The odd part was it didn't smell like tar at all even on hot summer days.

That was long before I found this site. I'd never even heard of ospho.
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:09 AM   #86
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The first floor I ever replaced I used Blackjack roof repair to seal the steel floor before laying down new plywood. The holes go away. That bus still leaks because of the type of windows it has and the plywood is rotting again, but that steel floor is as good as the day I put that tar on it. When I went under the bus I could see each little screw hole had about a 2" long tar worm hanging from it. The odd part was it didn't smell like tar at all even on hot summer days.

That was long before I found this site. I'd never even heard of ospho.
That might be worth looking into AFTER the rust treatment.
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:11 AM   #87
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"That sounds like the 11th commandment. Yeah, that plastic might corrode from contact with the steel floor." It could very well be the 11th. I was told the 12th commandment is "Thou shall not commit douche' baggery"

Side from the humor, I am liking a lot of the ideas that are being posted. I am hoping to get into mine shortly. only issue with mine is I can not have it down long as I need it to go racing. Hoping this winter the drag car will be done and ready for spring in Dec and I can get the bus interior done.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:19 AM   #88
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The floor I repaired with tar was heavily pitted and was unusually thick metal. I never thought about painting it before applying the tar since the tar is petroleum based. I did not use marine grade plywood, but the standard 3/4" plywood is holding up well except near the sidewalls where the windows still leak. That bus became a mobile storage container and it's still here.
The cheapest shortie I bought was $400 back then. It was for hauling bicycles and canoes as well as going to the kids' sporting events. I thought putting new plywood on the floor was a little extravagent, but look how much money I've pumped into this '97 bluebird. I even sprung for a $50 paint job this time.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:47 AM   #89
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The floor I repaired with tar was heavily pitted and was unusually thick metal. I never thought about painting it before applying the tar since the tar is petroleum based. I did not use marine grade plywood, but the standard 3/4" plywood is holding up well except near the sidewalls where the windows still leak. That bus became a mobile storage container and it's still here.
Not sure if you're implying it's a bad idea or not.

Rust treat, Rust-Oelum, roofing tar, foam board, marine grade. Rust-Oelum is oil based. I wouldn't think that would be a problem but then I don't know a damn thing about paint.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:37 AM   #90
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I don't think there would necessarily be any problems with using other rust treatments. At that time rust treatment meant using oil base paint. I just felt that with all that tar on the steel it would have been redundant to have painted the steel first. If the paint eventually pealed it could allow water to get under the tar allowing rust, because the tar would be adhered to the paint rather than the steel floor.
I thought the tar worked quite well actually. That metal floor is still protected after over 20 years. Surprisingly it didn't stink. The biggest drawback is pitying the next person that tries to replace that floor.
That was an extremely pitted floor, but it was still strong. I wanted to apply something that would fill all those pits to stop rust and prevent water contact. It worked and it was a cheap fix. A bit on the unorthodox side possibly, but it worked.

Would I do that again? Yeah, given a similar situation with a heavily pitted floor in a low end bus.

Somebody was putting tar on the roof of this '97 I'm in now. I could see spraying the roof with bedliner.
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