Floor prep questions

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus

LOL I do wonder about a galvanic reaction, though. I wonder if the epoxy/glue/whatever is enough of a barrier to prevent it?

Another option would be electrical box "knock outs". At the right time and place they'd be free and plentiful. Just have to know an electrician.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

That looks like a grinding wheel. I tried that ... for about 5 minutes. Use a sanding flapper wheel instead. I bought a 7 inch for the 4 1/2 grinder. Definitely have to remove the guard for that size. They do make them in 4 1/2 as well if you are so inclined.

The grinding wheel is good for removing REALLY thick rust that's still tight (the 5 minutes I used it). But a fresh flapper will be just as good and probably quicker.

Random internet pic

I used a 4.5" one because that's what I had and the people I bought the bus from said it worked better than one of the other options. It worked great. I kept kept repeating to myself "you cannot convert rust that you remove" because I have a tendency to get carried away. I did the whole floor in 3 hours. All I have left is a few areas that are hard lumps of ick (2nd pic) and then the area with rivets around the wheel wells and the driver seat (1st seat?. I guess I'll see what the ospho does to it. Maybe I can skip the wire brushing on that? That would be a lot harder than using the angle grinder and the flap wheel sander.

Then there is an area with some rust on the ceiling (3rd pic) and some on 2 side structural pieces near the rear wheel well (4th pic). I haven't seen any threads that address those. And advice appreciated!

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[Tango]

A twisted wire wheel will get around things like rivets without grinding them down.

But...you absolutely MUST wear good eye protection! Those little stainless darts will come of the wheel at about 300 mph.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by ben2go

You people belong in a tree. You're all nuts. [emoji3]

I was going to say Y'all are crazy but I can see your nuts.


I have a welder, sooooo...... I'll plug weld my holes if I ever get a bus.

If anyone uses the aluminum foil duct tape, you can spray automotive undercoat on the holes from underneath to seal water out. Flex Seal will work also.

Wait, won't aluminum foil tape have a problem with a bad mixed metal reaction?

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[2martins]

Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus

My ceiling panels are the same gauge as the outside skins. My hands would die cutting that into 100+ little pieces with tin snips.

How about just cutting strips that are wide enough to cover 2 bolts and epoxy/sealant/whatever the whole thing down? I was thinking aluminum foil tape, but that's a dissimilar metal.

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[2martins]

Originally Posted by Tango

A twisted wire wheel will get around things like rivets without grinding them down.

But...you absolutely MUST wear good eye protection! Those little stainless darts will come of the wheel at about 300 mph.

That's the reason I am nervous about the ceiling stuff. Well, that and Ospho dripping on me can't be a good thing.

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[FuzzWantsABus]

Originally Posted by Tango

A twisted wire wheel will get around things like rivets without grinding them down.

But...you absolutely MUST wear good eye protection! Those little stainless darts will come of the wheel at about 300 mph.

A twisted wire wheel ended up working the best and fastest on both my floor and the ceiling panels. But yeah, the little darts suck, so definitely be careful. I used one of the full-face shields, and was glad of the protection.

[Twigg]

This will shift rust faster than most things ... good for other stuff too:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-ne...aler-1108.html

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by 2martins

How about just cutting strips that are wide enough to cover 2 bolts and epoxy/sealant/whatever the whole thing down? I was thinking aluminum foil tape, but that's a dissimilar metal.

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Assuming you are making metal to metal contact between the adhesive.

[PNWorBUST72]

I got some of those stiff nylon brush heads for my drill from Amazon, says it removes rust and paint...

I'll be trying them during the week and let you know but it seems like it will have an easier time getting into the nooks/crevices then most things I have seen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then its OSPHO pre treatment and a good coat of Rustoleum oil based high perf paint for me I think.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Wait, won't aluminum foil tape have a problem with a bad mixed metal reaction?

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If the floor is preped, de-rusted with a rust converter, and sealed, no. There won't be any issues with the aluminum tape over a sealed steel floor.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by ben2go

If the floor is preped, de-rusted with a rust converter, and sealed, no. There won't be any issues with the aluminum tape over a sealed steel floor.

Seal them after, good advice. That made filling the holes easy. I think I just may use this method.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Seal them after, good advice. That made filling the holes easy. I think I justly use this method.

....

[2martins]

Originally Posted by PNWorBUST72

I got some of those stiff nylon brush heads for my drill from Amazon, says it removes rust and paint...

I'll be trying them during the week and let you know but it seems like it will have an easier time getting into the nooks/crevices then most things I have seen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then its OSPHO pre treatment and a good coat of Rustoleum oil based high perf paint for me I think.

The small wire cup and wire wheels on the drill worked well on the rivet edges and the edges of the wheel wells yesterday. And they may hold up better. But the nylon ones are supposed to be really good for cleaning.

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[ThisBusPlusUs]

Excellent information in this thread.
Think I like the idea of the flat head bolts best, but may have to change plans depending on what I uncover when the floor comes up at the end of the month.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by ben2go

If the floor is preped, de-rusted with a rust converter, and sealed, no. There won't be any issues with the aluminum tape over a sealed steel floor.

I looked at aluminum tape and unless I do *several* strips over the holes perhaps as if I were going around a clock every couple of hours the tape just seems too thin. I think I'd rather use some of the wall metal (some pieces are thicker than the silvery stuff just below the windows- particularly the end cap covers and bits near the emergency exit) I am thinking of using the thicker metal to cover areas that are pitted or the one area that actually has a small hole and the wall metal which is thinner to cover the bolt holes two at a time at least if not 4 at a time. I may not have quite enough metal for that so I may need to get more. I got one of those old military steel desks that are TANKS for free and I could cut (plasma cutter?) sections out of that if needed and sell the rest to a scrap place. If I do that, I might use the desk top as part of the reinforcement for a storage bay or two. One of my storage bay doors is bashed in and won't open so it may get replaced with an undermount box for a semi bolted to the frame. Seems like finding a replacement door would be hard and I definitely don't have the skills to fashion one. Reinforcing a wall seems a lot easier.

What do y'all think of these plans and BIGGEST QUESTION: what do I do about the fact that the floor will no longer be flat once I reinforce it with metal? Rigid insulation isn't going to sit flat on that. I could perhaps spray a bit of closed cell spray foam and smush the rigid panels into it til level which would also hold them in place? I'm not sure how fast it hardens and whether or not I would be able to level it fast enough.

Even my alternative idea for the floor holes would leave the floor a little uneven. I have some left over partials rolls of bitumen "bitchethane" that is used in house construction under doors and windows. It's like really thick tar tape which sticks on anything. It's maybe 1/8" thick. It's pretty expensive so I wouldn't BUY it for this purpose probably, but it doesn't go bad and I have it in my garage anyway. I'm not sure I have enough but between the metal and this I definitely have enough.

Thoughts? Advice? I have read lots of threads about floors but I have not seen this issue addressed. I'm not sure if it's because people just use a mallet on top of some wood to make the rigid foam push down to smush in a bit where the metal patches stick up? Things go so much easier if the floor is flat before you start trying to build on it. I know the walls and ceiling aren't square but I should be able to get the floor flat at least.

Related to this, I found a way to park on my driveway that is very close to level. I can see leveling jacks being really helpful for this and also for parking in unlevel areas. Did anyone else do leveling jacks? Or are they only worth it if you are full time because they are realky expensive? I like the idea of boondocking but finding level places to park not in an RV park has got to be more difficult.

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[ben2go]

Undercoating usually takes care of the bottom side of the tape. I prefer and will weld my bolt holes closed.

If you're using insulating foam board, it will contour around the metal when the plywood subfloor is laid on top of it.

I haven't seen bitumen used in a bus that I am aware of.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by ben2go

Undercoating usually takes care of the bottom side of the tape. I prefer and will weld my bolt holes closed.

If you're using insulating foam board, it will contour around the metal when the plywood subfloor is laid on top of it.

I haven't seen bitumen used in a bus that I am aware of.

I agree.

Even at 25 psi compression strength, small irregularities will be pressed into the insulation the first time someone walks on it.

[gzimmerman372]

It was mentioned back somewhere (i just read this whole thread...thankfully I'm at work and got paid to do it!!) that if you tape with the aluminum foil type tape and then treat it under with flex seal it should keep any water from getting up under the tape and compromising the seal...what about painting both sides with flex seal? I personally have not worked with flex seal at all, would the gallon of it be thicker than the rattle can and be thick enough to hold form enough to seal the hold and not just drop through under the floor?

[87.Art]

Here is a comprehensive website that explains floor preparation very well.

https://www.custombuildingproducts.c...n-systems.aspx

Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus

Hey all.

Just finished grinding (hours and hours and hours) of rust off of the floor of the bus. I plan on painting on Corroseal to convert/seal what's left.

Questions are:

1. Should I make sure the floor is squeaky clean before applying (by wiping down with mineral spirits or somesuch)? I power-washed it, but it's not perfect.

2. I need to seal the holes in the floor. I am trying to choose between caulk, as I have seen many do, or aluminum tape, which I've heard of, but not actually seen. Regardless, should I do that before or after sealing?

3. A lot of the caulk around the joints between the walls/floor/floorwells was shriveled up and non-effective. It needs to be recaulked. Before or after sealing?

Thanks in advance!