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Old 08-04-2004, 09:50 PM   #11
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Location: near flint michigan
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here's a silly idea that popped into my brain the other day concerning a van as a tow vehicle. Lots of van's have V 8 engines with much more power than the van actually needs to attain cruising speed.

If you had a heavy duty tow bar connecting the van to the bus, and a good method to engage/disengage the driveshaft while the vehicles are moving could the van be used to assist the skoolie in climbing steep hills while in the mountains?? One driver in the bus, and a second driver in the van with both vehicles working in tandem to climb the steep hills faster than the 35mph the skoolie would otherwise be cruising at? A 350 cubic inch chevy van engine has nearly the same displacement as a lot of skoolie engines !

Perhaps not the safest .....just a crazy idea that popped into my brain, thought i'd pass it along.
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes (who will watch the watchmen?)
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:03 PM   #12
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I have seen some of the push vehicles on the veggie power pages using VW Golf's cut in half and pushing the drive vehicle. Only catch to your idea is that in most states is that a towed vehicle can't have a driver or passenger. I don't know how they get the throttles synchronized.
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Old 08-05-2004, 07:30 PM   #13
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Here's Sharkeys page on his 'Pusher' project...he also has some great old pics of Buses
His bus project is pretty nice too

Michael & Millie
Are you questioning my Aaa-thoritttyy ?
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Old 04-24-2005, 08:04 PM   #14
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle, Washington
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Year: 1981
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American FE
Engine: Cummins 555 9.1 L diesel
Rated Cap: 77
how thick are the walls and ceiling?

For screwing into the walls, ceiling, and roof, how deep can you go without puncturing right through the other side? For installation of wall framing or roof decks, what length screws are you using? I assume the inside layer of the bus skin, sheet steel or aluminum, is strong enough to hold the cabinetry--or are people also using the vertical steel ribs of the bus?

1981 Bluebird All American
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:27 AM   #15
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I just let the drill cut through the interior steel sheet …and that was that for most of my interior wall attachments. Eventually I would run into a place in the interior where a wall would match up with the buses steel framing and make an attachment there.
But it’s not necessary to attach to the framing for most stuff…a good metal screw; going through the interior skin does a great job at holding things where they should be.

My exterior wooden panels were a different story …
I attached them to the bus making sure the bolts always went through a steel upright framing member with bolts ,nuts etc.
And then used a good epoxy on the nut to make sure vibrations wouldn’t loosen them.

If I was to do it again I’d use the smallest toggle-bolt dealy’s I could find for attaching the sections of wall framing that protrude out into the rig …I’m talking about up at the ceiling .
Not sure what the designated term for them is….’anchors’, maybe?
You drill out a hole that will fit them, insert it into the hole…then by a screwing action, you force the toggles to expand inside the hole. You get a very strong attachment this way.

On our bus for the main sidewall interior framing attachments …I used regular old Angle-iron attachments that I metal screwed to the steel to secure the framing.
Here’s a pic ... medet2.jpg

I did the same for the attachments that held the inside walls up.
Seems to be a very strong way to go about this because a few weeks ago I ripped out most of the interior stuff in our bus and can say it was so strongly attached I had to work really hard at getting them out.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:07 PM   #16
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Re: Framing the interior

i have built 2 skoolies in the past, on the last one we used a product called RIV-Nuts ( they are a cross between a pop rivet and a threadded nut) to put up the cabinets, i started using them when i got into aviation, and thought they would work well (which they did) they are shallow enough to not have to go thrugh the outer skin, and depending on the size you use, they can gold more than a few hundered lbs. they sell kits at harbor freight might be worth a look and may make somthing a little easier for you
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