Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Iowa
Fresh Water Systems
Fresh Water System
Fresh water is available from either an external "city water" hookup or on-board storage.
The external system is pressurized by the water system at an RV park or city water supply.
Since water pressures at campgrounds vary, we recommend you install an in-line pressure regulator at the water supply faucet. This will protect the motor home water system and your supply hose from excessively high water pressure.
On some models, a manual valve also isolates the onboard fresh water storage tank. This valve can be used to fill the tank from the city water supply.
Sanitizing The Fresh Water System
Sanitize the fresh water tank and piping ~ every three months, and whenever the m for a prolonged period. This will discourage the growth of bacteria and other organisms that can contaminate the water supply. Use a chlorine/fresh water rinse as follows:
Prepare a solution of 1/4-cup household liquid chlorine bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite) to one gallon of water for each 15 gallons of tank capacity.
Close drain valves and faucets, pour chlorine solution into the freshwater tank filler spout, and complete filling with fresh water.
Turn water pump switch ON. (Be sure you have 12-volt DC power.) Open all faucets individually until water flows steadily, then turn off. This will purge any air from the lines.
Top off water tank with fresh water and wait three hours.
Drain the entire system by opening all fresh water tank valves, faucets, and plumbing line drain valves.
Flush the system with drinking quality water. Let the fresh water flow through the system for several minutes to flush out the chlorine solution.
After you stop the flushing, close the tank valve ' faucets, and drain valves. You can now fill the tank with fresh water, and the system is ready to use.
Aside from winterizing, there is very little care and feeding of the water system. Drain the water tank periodically, see instructions for chlorinating/sanitizing the water system, and refill with fresh water.
The best way is to take household bleach, 1/4 cup to each 15 gallons of tank capacity. Mix some in water (so you're not using straight bleach), and fill the tank. Run all the faucets (except the toilet) to get the solution in all the lines. Drive around the block to slosh it; then empty it. Next use a half cup of regular baking soda dissolved in a bucket of water. Fill the tank again and then drain it. Then fill and drain it one more time. At this point your tank should be pristine. Make sure you drain the system if your RV is to be left in cold weather. Burst pipes can cause a great deal of damage.
Water leaks are the bane of RVers. If a connection gets loose, water gets in. A good seal is essential to avoid dry rot. Check your roofs for gaps. Do not use a silicone sealer anywhere except around windows as it can become brittle.
The best 25 foot hose for connecting to city water is a 1/2 inch diameter permanently coiled hose as sold at camping world.
The pressure relief valve on the water tank is designed TO leak. Don't worry if you get a few drops from it from time to time. It's just doing its job.
The drain plug (anode rod) in the Suburban hot water tank is MADE to be "sacrificed". Bad water is intended to eat them up so they don't eat the tank up. They can need replacement in as little as a few months. The lowest cost source for replacing them is Camping World ($5.75), rather than $20 elsewhere.
City Water Connection
Connect the city water system as follows:
Open the protective door over the city water inlet (on some models only).
Connect one end of a potable water hose to park or city water supply. This will usually be a faucet or valve similar to your garden hose valve at home. "Potable water" hoses are available at RV supply stores.
Run the city water supply for a few seconds to clear the line.
Turn OFF the supply.
Connect the hose to the inlet fitting.
Turn ON the supply. Open all faucets and clear the lines. Close faucets.
Disconnect the city water as follows:
Close the park or city water supply valve.
Remove the hose from the city water supply.
Disconnect the hose from the inlet, coil and store it.
Filling The Water Tank
On some models, you can fill the fresh water directly to the city water connection. Open the tank fill v, remove the fresh water tank fill cap and vent plug. Monitor the filling of the tank continually. The i pressure at some park and city water supply ( damage the tank if left unattended. After filling i close the valve, replace tank fill cap and vent plug.
OVERFILLING THE FRESH WATER FROM A PRESSURIZED SOURCE WILL CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE WATER TANK OR STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS. MONITOR WATER TANK FILL CONTINUALLY.
The on-board water storage tank may also through a special filler cap outside the motor. To fill the fresh water tank, open the spout, remove vent plug, and fill the tank using a potable water hose. Check the monitor panel often to determine when the tank is full. If water is flowing from the top vent, your tank is overfilled. Stop filling. After filling the tank, replace vent plug and filler cap.
Avoid leaving water in the tank when the motor home is not in use. Turn the water pump OFF before draining the water tank. Whenever possible, drain the fresh water tank before traveling. Water in the tank will reduce the carrying capacity of the motor home.
Please read our Loading page for more information.
The on-board fresh water system is pressurized by a self-priming, 12-volt DC pump. The pump operates automatically when the pump power switch is ON and a faucet is opened. When the faucets are closed, the pump shuts off. At free flow, the pump draws approximately 7 to 7-1/2 amps, and can run dry for extended periods without damage. A20-amp fuse at the converter panel protects the pump circuit. Please read our Electrical Systems page for more information.
Turn the pump master switch ON to pressurize the system. When a faucet is opened after the initial filling of the tank, the water may sputter for a few seconds. This is normal and is not cause for concern. The water flow will become steady when all air is bled from the water lines.
Vibration, flexing and twisting while traveling pipe fittings loose. Check all plumbing for leaks, once a year. If the water pump runs when a faucet is close, suspect a leak. Be sure the tank drain tightly closed. Leaks occur most often around fittings. If necessary, tighten or clean the fittings. Do not over tighten fittings. Connection fixtures should not be tight (wrench. They will normally seal with hand-1 a leak persists at one of the fittings, completely and check for mineral deposits of foreign matter at the seating surfaces. Clean surfaces thoroughly and reinstall the fitting.
Connections at the water tank, pump are made with special clamps. They can be standard aircraft type hose clamps.
Leaks caused by freezing damage can be proper winterization of the system. See “STORAGE” chapter of this manual. Freezing damage is usually extensive and may include a burst water tank, split piping, and a damaged water pump, toilet, and water heater. If you experience this type of damage it can best be made by an authorized dealer.
A shower fixture is located in an exterior compartment. The water pump must be ON or city water pressure must be available for the shower to operate.
Water Purifier System
Water purifier systems help provide consistent drinking water quality as you travel. A special filter is part of this system, The filter cartridge is located in the cabinet under the galley sink. Your Owner's Information Package contains detailed operating and maintenance instructions concerning this system.
Please note that the special faucet at the galley is the only outlet for the purified water. Although purified water is not available at the standard galley and lavy outlets, the water available at these outlets is filtered by the water pump filter. Note also that this system is not designed for or effective in removing or neutralizing bacterial contaminants.
Waste Water System
The waste water system in your motor home is made up of sinks, tub, shower, toilet, plumbing drain and vent lines, a "grey water" holding tank, and a "black water" holding tank. Generally, water from the sinks and shower drains into the grey water tank; the toilet drains into the black water tank. The holding tanks make the system completely self-contained and allow you to dispose of waste water at your convenience. A flexible sewer hose is required to connect the holding tank outlet to the inlet of an approved waste water dump station or sewer system.
NOTE. Some floor plans require the shower and/or bathroom sink water to be drained into the black water tank.
The drain plumbing is similar to that used in your home. The system is trapped and vented to prevent waste gases from backing up into the motor home. The drain plumbing is made of ABS plastic, and is durable and resistant to most chemicals.