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Old 04-22-2018, 02:32 PM   #1
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Year: 1986
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Rated Cap: 87, says Gillig...
Gillig Phantom Front Door Rehab

Although the air operated door would have been cool to keep, the fold in mechanism and the big gap at the top and bottom of the door were unacceptable. During my frigid December drive home from CA to MD that door a huge source of cold and drafts.

Initially I was thinking about replacing the folding door with a regular exterior house door. However after taking a closer look at the original bus door I have decided to keep it, eliminate the air and folding features, and convert it to a conventionally opening.

The goals are:
1) Keep it looking reasonably stock on the outside
2) Must be able to use conventional house door knobs/locks.
3) Must must be a good sealing door and be draft free
4) Must be strong, safe and secure

The first step is simply to get the door to open and close like a straight door. Removing the roller at the top of the right (as seen from the inside) side of the door stops the folding of the door.


Once that roller is removed, the door sections will open together but they won't open to a full 90+ degrees. The roller is shown below left.



Removing the other hardware shown above from the upper control box leaves the box looking like the pic below



Once that hardware is removed, the door will now swing past 90 degrees.



I am still working out the details for the trim out and locking. I intend to use tinted plexiglass inserts over the existing windows (on the inside) to add privacy and double insulate the door. I will be using aluminum channel and tube to build out the door frame and create a suitable place to install handles and locks. More to come...

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Old 05-03-2018, 08:23 AM   #2
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Posts: 505
Year: 1986
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Chassis: Phantom
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Rated Cap: 87, says Gillig...
The aluminum I ordered should be here today so hopefully this weekend I can make some headway with the door project. In the meantime I have been working on:
1) Reinforcing the stairs and
2) Cleaning up the washer fluid cubby behind the door.

Although this is a door rehab thread, I decided to document these efforts here.

1) As for the entry way stairs, since the below pic was taken I have removed the rubber tread on the bottom step, and test fit some reinforcing at the front. The stairs are aluminum, but under the stairs is a metal support bracket. This bracket was badly rusted and needed some help.


I snapped this pic this morning as I was headed out the door; I will get some pics from underneath tonight after work.


I used a 2.5" wide piece of aluminum on top with a 2" piece of steel angle iron on the bottom for strength. I used 3/8" elevator bolts to tie the pieces together. I will be installing a piece of aluminum angle over the elevator bolts to tidy things up, close the bottom gap, and hide the elevator bolts. Behind the aluminum trim I will be building up that bottom step and creating a bottom door jam for the door to seal against.

2) The washer fluid reservoir cubby...

It was actually pretty clean in there. Here is a pic after cleaning and paint prep.


And here it is after rust paint; it will still need a top coat. The two cut air lines in the pic used to go up the A-pillar to the door opener. I am considering re-using one of those lines to put an air tool regulator and connector in that space.


I considered using a smaller washer fluid reservoir and turning that space into a shelf, but will probably abandon that idea in favor of the air connection.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComfortEagle View Post
I am still working out the details for the trim out and locking. I intend to use tinted plexiglass inserts over the existing windows (on the inside) to add privacy and double insulate the door. I will be using aluminum channel and tube to build out the door frame and create a suitable place to install handles and locks. More to come...
Here are a few of the aluminum pieces I bought to trim out the door. They are 1.5" X 4" rectangular tube (.125" wall thickness). I used a table saw to turn the tube into U-channel (the pieces on the right are scrap).




The goal this weekend is to trim these piece to fit over the bus door, closing the gaps around the door and providing a solid place to mount a conventional house door latch and lockset. The bus door itself is 1.25" thick so these pieces fit perfectly over the door.
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:41 AM   #4
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Looking good, can’t wait to see more of what you plan on doing
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Old 05-05-2018, 02:08 PM   #5
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Looking good, can’t wait to see more of what you plan on doing
Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I cut the long piece of channel down to rough length today and did a test fit.




I also snapped a few pics of the rusty underside of the stairs. I will eventually disassemble everything rustproof, paint, and reassemble...


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Old 05-14-2018, 01:53 PM   #6
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Sweet, love it when people create innovative solutions to fit their need
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Old 10-21-2018, 05:08 AM   #7
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It's been a while but I finally did some more work on the door. I installed the 1.5X4 inch aluminum channel on the door and installed the locks.

For door lock and latch, I used:

Schlage Z-Wave Connect Century Touchscreen Deadbolt with Built-In Alarm

Schlage Century Front Entry Handle and Interior Lever

Although the aluminum channel hasn't been "permanently fastened" to the door, the door is fully functional, and feels like the door to a vault.


Eventually, I will be painting the entire door black (probably black...), so the aluminum pieces will blend into the door a bit...


I thought the squared off design of the Schlage lock and latch was in keeping with the Gillig's angular shape...


A layer of tinted plexiglass will be going behind the door windows, and the inside of the door will be trimmed in wood...


Eventually the bus will have it's own Smart Hub, but for now the bus lock is on my Samsung Smart Things home hub...


Obviously more to come on the door, like trimming out the door jams, trimming the interior of the door, and painting the exterior.

However, for now the door is fully functional and quite secure. And being able to lock the bus is nice...
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Old 10-21-2018, 09:34 AM   #8
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Brilliant solution! Looks good! Original windows retain the visibility needed!
Just started working with aluminum for the first time myself, to trim out my e-hatch and fab a door for it. Having mine welded now....
That stuff ain't cheap like steel....cut it right the first time!
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:00 AM   #9
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Brilliant solution! Looks good! Original windows retain the visibility needed!
Just started working with aluminum for the first time myself, to trim out my e-hatch and fab a door for it. Having mine welded now....
That stuff ain't cheap like steel....cut it right the first time!
Thank you for your comments. You are right about the aluminum; it is not free. And the only place I could find the 1.5 X 4 inch aluminum tube I needed was online; also not free...

However, that 1.5 X 4 is the perfect size: it slides right over the existing door and is wide enough to take the lock set.
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:50 AM   #10
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Outstanding, that looks very clean buddy.
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Old 10-22-2018, 10:32 AM   #11
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Awesome! Maybe i wont need to use steel on mine..
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:38 PM   #12
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cool stuff!! same door lock i have at home.. its the only one that had a driveable deadbolt with lots of torque.. good choice for a bus door lock
-Christopher
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Old 10-23-2018, 04:25 PM   #13
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The more i look at this, the more i like it.. im going borrow your idea..i had the basics but you filled in the holes of my plan..its really a great job.
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Old 10-23-2018, 04:27 PM   #14
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Only thing i see that could be an issue is the bottom corner. A leg slicer..ouch
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Old 10-24-2018, 06:33 AM   #15
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Rated Cap: 87, says Gillig...
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Only thing i see that could be an issue is the bottom corner. A leg slicer..ouch
Bottom corner?

Leg slicer?
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Old 10-24-2018, 05:57 PM   #16
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Bottom corner?

Leg slicer?
The bottom corner of the door looks sharp. Easy to hit something about knee high..ive done it on a rv door.
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Old 11-07-2020, 05:44 PM   #17
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Rated Cap: 87, says Gillig...
Finally (2 years later...) getting around to finishing up the front door. I am trying to get the bus weathered-in for the "long and cold" southern Maryland winter.


The door jam and door trim have been aligned for a nice tight seal...
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Old 11-07-2020, 07:37 PM   #18
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Was the 1.5x4 piece that goes vertically slid over the left end that holds the latch and lock, a custom cut extrusion, or?

Looks good by the way!
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Old 11-07-2020, 07:45 PM   #19
Bus Nut
 
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Was the 1.5x4 piece that goes vertically slid over the left end that holds the latch and lock, a custom cut extrusion, or?
It was a 1.5X4" tube; I cut the end off to make it a U. The inner diameter matched closely to the thickness of the door.
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:03 PM   #20
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That door looks great. Excellent fab.
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