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Old 08-10-2015, 01:14 PM   #121
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Thanks for showing that, jazty. I hadn't seen those before! Was it difficult to crack open and re-close after "fixing" the blue LED?
They're easy to open, but the clips that hold the back on broke during the process. After cutting the LED out I glued it back together with cyanoacrylate (super glue). The whole process only took a couple minutes.

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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Did you happen to check the quiescent (no-load/idle) power consumption..?
Oh, you better believe I did! It's negligible. I don't remember exactly, but I think the quiescent load was initially about double that of a small LED. Of course, after clipping the LED the load went down to about half. Mere milli-amps.
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:29 PM   #122
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Want A/C to run when vehicle is off

I was considering purchasing a eurovan but you cant power on the a/c without turning on the car. How would I go about doing this?

My other option is buying a e350 shuttle but again I would need to have the vehicle on to use the rear a/c. One particular e350 im looking at, the a/c doesn't work so if I had to purchase a different type of ac system, I guess it wouldn't be a big deal?

I would love to have additional power available for interior lights but I figure I'd just buy a LED roll and it'd hardly use any power.

Suggestions?

Thank you kindly!
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:35 PM   #123
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Skoolie Electrical Issue?

I have an 86' Thomas full size. I recently bought a brand new battery and the second battery is fairly new, but for some reason it won't start up. All my levels are fine, but it won't even crank. Under the hood there is a small white wire that is disconnected close to the starter. Should I reconnect and give it a try or is that risky?


-Abbey
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:42 PM   #124
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Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Year: 2000
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Engine: ISC 8.3
There should be a large wire and a small wire connecting to the starter (to its solenoid, really, but they're usually combined into a single unit). If there's no small wire connecting to the solenoid that's a good clue. If the length, routing, and residual bends in this mystery white wire look like they'd get it to the starter, and if it has a connector that fits an unused terminal on the starter, there's a good chance that's where it belongs.
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:17 PM   #125
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Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
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Search, search and search some more gently on the forum.

Nat
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Old 08-16-2015, 04:37 PM   #126
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Florida (in the bus)
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: ahhhh 40'
Engine: 3116
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Hey Plasma, Have you done the math and stuff to figure out what it would cost to go solar in a bus ? I have 2 small 5000 btu window A/C units, an apt size refrigerator, a small microwave, an electric oven. Now I do live in Florida so 2 a/c's running 24/7 is normal but I can get buy with one if needed. Do I have enough space on the roof of a 40' bus to live comfortably understanding that all that stuff doesn't run all the time or at the same time. I have about 256 sqft of available space up on roof.
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Old 08-16-2015, 05:06 PM   #127
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: central texas
Posts: 79
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas/International
Chassis: 3700
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 72
Just a few quick and dirty estimates

depending upon the panels you get you can fit about 2500 watts of panels on top of a long bus, the panels may cost about $3500,

charge controllers about $1000, wires/connectors/fuses/boxes about $1000,

I twill cost at least $2000 for the roof rack to hold the panels and yes it will cover the whole roof, more if you want them to tilt easily.

Your 5000btu unit probably pulls about 4.5 amps AC when running, this equals to about 45amps Dc,

You may need up to 3000 or 4000 amp hours of battery to run the AC when the sun is not shining, this of course can vary but plan on $2000 to $3000 for batteries,

All this stuff will add at least a ton of weight to your bus,
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Old 08-16-2015, 05:26 PM   #128
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That is about what I came with too. I think I am going to wait till the price gets more reasonable. I think I could run a good propane generator 24/7 or just pay to get regular electric and save a bunch of money. I would love to help with a clean environment I just cant afford it, I know that sounds stupid but Uncle Sam and GE have a deal.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:13 AM   #129
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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50 amp vs 30 amp

I'm just now getting ready to install shore power. I have a base understanding of the differences between 50amp and 30amp circuits. Could you comment on why I wouldn't install 50amp? It doesn't look to be much more money, and if it's backwards compatible with 20 or 30amp stations, why wouldn't I? It seems the benefits of potentially adding additional appliances would be worth the minor cost increase?

Thanks!

Steven
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:53 AM   #130
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30A can run a single A/C unit, it takes 50A to run 2 - A/C units.
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