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Old 09-07-2016, 03:32 PM   #131
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I just posted for advice then this thread shows up in the list. What timing!

Time to dig through this thread. Thanks in advance for posting this.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:36 PM   #132
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So dumb question... why would anyone install a 30 amp instead of 50, knowing that you may want to eventually add appliances?
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:01 PM   #133
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One consideration is the availability of 50 amp service. The Big Time, fancy schmancy RV parks usually have it, but most smaller ones and I believe all the state and national parks are only 30. But...you can set up a 50 with a 30 amp pigtail adapter so that you can use either.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:03 PM   #134
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8 way warning flasher bypass

Ok Plasma, I've got one for you.

I have 2002 GMC Thomas Minotour cutaway. 7.5l Diesel.

Making good progress on this thing as a weekend camper. Have installed 2 x deep cycle marine batteries, and inverter which runs a single AC outlet (all I'll need).

I've also tied in the whole bus safety system circuit into the house bank with a controller. Charged by alternator, and when key is off, overhead control panel with safety switches is isolated on house bank.

Now, what I want to do is repurpose the external 8 way amber and red flashers into spot lights for external lighting. I'm having trouble finding info on how to bypass the relay. I've traced some of the wiring, but with all the bus wiring intact in the overhead it's a little tricky. Ideally I'd eliminate the relay so switch just turns lights on and off. And ideally I'd have front and rears isolated from one another.

I have located the relay. I've also come across another controller which has some sort of magnetic bar that controls the different functions of the lighting system. Red flashing when doors are shut, when doors open this controller switches system to illuminate the amber flashers, then when doors shut it turns off the system.

Obviously I can simply cut lamp wires on the back of the switch, and post relay/controller and wire directly to switch. However tracking down the wires for the rear lights is a task with all the other wiring.

I'm looking for the easiest way to eliminate the flashing. Any ideas?

Thank you very much in advance.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:26 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider View Post
Ok Plasma, I've got one for you.....
Plasma: Last Activity: 11-28-2014 03:07 PM. The man went POOF almost two years ago.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:01 AM   #136
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I am aware that this is an old thread but I want to add...

I have two 240 watt panels on my bus in parallel to an MPPT controller. One of the advantages of higher voltage panels is you can still be charging your batteries in very low lighting conditions! You need greater than 12 volts to charge a 12v battery bank. In low lighting conditions, an 18 volt solar panel may only produce 10-12 volts... not enough to even start charging your batteries. But I regularly see voltages high enough in the worst lighting conditions to charge my batteries with my higher voltage panels. This extends my hours of charging in the morning and evening hours. Even on rainy days I see 30 to 60 watts of charge going to my batteries.

Ross
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:13 PM   #137
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I concur! Just this morning I was admiring the same thing. We took the bus out to a wedding this weekend and had it parked fully in the shade of a couple trees. Even with the tiniest bit of indirect light the panels were at ~30v and the MPPT charge controller was putting in ~2 amps @ 14.6 volts Of course, that's next to nothing for a 455Ah battery pack, but it's neat nonetheless!
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:21 PM   #138
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So let me see if I understand this right.... the charge controller will step down the voltage of a panel to the appropriate voltage to charge the battery bank.... in other words take that 24v that the panel(s) are kicking out and feed the battery bank 14.x volts to charge?

That's been the primary reason I haven't been looking at higher voltage panels, afraid the 24 or 30v from the panels would cook the batteries.
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:50 PM   #139
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Only an MPPT charge controller can utilize the higher voltage panels. Mine can take panel voltage from anything around ~16v to as high as 100v. My battery bank is 3x 12v deep cycle (not marine) batteries in parallel. You want the panel voltage high to reduce line loss. My two panels are both ~36v grid-tie panels. I put them in parallel instead of series so that if one is shaded the other still provides power.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:22 PM   #140
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My bank is going to be 4x 6v ~220ah connected in 2 parallel blocks of 2 in series which will give me 12v 440ah capacity to start. Further expansion will be done in blocks of 4 the same way, with each block having its own panels and charge controller; however all blocks will be connected in parallel to an inverter (or two).

I figure three blocks will give me all the power I could ever need or want (1320 ah, lots of juice). Would rather have too much than not enough.
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