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Old 01-20-2015, 07:04 PM   #31
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Great picture, your black wires are "hot" they all connect to circuit breakers (they won't blow like fuses, they reset)

So the black 12v form breaker, goes into your switch which looks like a high amp/resistor switch so one lead will be a different voltage than the other to control fan speed.

Notice 8 gage wire feeding the bar connecting all the circuit breakers together?

That powers everything attached to those breakers.

On tablet what was question again? Lol will check later
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:05 PM   #32
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Ugh hate tablets at times
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:19 PM   #33
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Basically the question is, does it matter which terminal wires I connect to the heater fan? (Obviously not the middle wire). There is a red and black wire on the heater, which I assume are positive and negative, but I'm not sure.
The wires coming off right now that go to the heater are identical, so theres no way to track them through the wire bundle. So does it matter which terminal off of the switch I connect to the heater fan?

These are the wires coming off of the heater. I checked the circuit with a multi-meter and it checked.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:33 PM   #34
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From my experience, you should see if connecting different leads to the fan motor to 12v yield different speeds. In my bus, I think the motor used different sets of windings--one for low and one for hi. Both were sent 12v and, interestingly, would spin the same direction regardless of the polarity of the voltages I sent them! Didnt know you could do that. Im not sure if many switches use resistors to give a low speed. Most fans I see have some way of making the low speed built into the motor. Experiment! As long as the potential current is low--small ga wire--you probably wont kill yourself ;)
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:04 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_m View Post
From my experience, you should see if connecting different leads to the fan motor to 12v yield different speeds. In my bus, I think the motor used different sets of windings--one for low and one for hi. Both were sent 12v and, interestingly, would spin the same direction regardless of the polarity of the voltages I sent them! Didnt know you could do that. Im not sure if many switches use resistors to give a low speed. Most fans I see have some way of making the low speed built into the motor. Experiment! As long as the potential current is low--small ga wire--you probably wont kill yourself ;)
yep. my heater like that grounds through the chassis and both wires get 12vdc positive. like you said, its for the two speeds.

op, you need a couple more hose clamps.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:59 AM   #36
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mine has a wire from screw on top of heater to the chair rail for the ground
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:38 AM   #37
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O.k. Lets get back to basics.
Did someone come up with a how to diagram in color with the overlays? If not, is there a dummy's guide out there? I have two new eu2000i watt gasoline gens that can run together or separate. I don't have/plan for solar and no gas. Just 12v and 110. I want the option for using shore power. It seems like mine will be basic compared to some.
A diagram would be great! How do I power the box/switch that will separate the gens from the shore power so my outlets can be powered from the box/switch rather than straight from the generators?
Thanks for any and all help!
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Old 02-12-2015, 01:00 AM   #38
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It's probably best to know if you are going for 30amp or 50amp shore
power as one is wired as straight 120volt (30amp) and the other is two
120volt circuits combined to make 240volt (50amp). Either way they will
require a transfer switch, which can be manual or automatic, your choice
or budget. It basically switches your main power input between generator
or shore power. 30 amp uses three wire shore power cord and 50 amp
uses a 4 wire shore power cord. HTH
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:44 PM   #39
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I'll run 30 amp shore. Sounds like I just feed the gen 30 amp output to the transfer switch and then to circuit breakers, then to the outlets. The transfer switch will have a second input for 30 amp from shore. I guess I was making it too complicated.
Thanks,
Bob
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:39 AM   #40
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running two 8D batteries (1100CCA ea) to start/run TC2000 (cummins). here's the problem...batteries totally drained (wouldn't turn on the meter) after two weeks of sitting. Recharged at napa (yay!) likely a parasitic load and have meter to chase it down but need to resolve cable issue first.

so, the bus had a new alternator, batteries and looks like 'new' grounding cable assembly about 6 mos prior to our acquisition. Now
1. wondering about cable assembly (looks stetchy as in too short, poor soldering job, questionable post sizing). shoddy work leads me to question whether what I'm looking at is even correct. For example, BB manual says use cable spec'd to SAE J1128 wondering if 2/0 SAE J1127 (as is currently installed) is really different from SAE J1128 and

2. where the heck to find correct replacement (pref preassembled unit but will go with cable by the foot) .

3. also, how to tell if the terminals fit given that the napa website shows terminal measurements. (although I could contact napa on this one)

and finally,

4. where the hockeysticks is the fusebox in a tc2000?
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