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04-20-2017, 09:33 AM
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#141
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Ridge Manor, FL
Posts: 311
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: Ford B600
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 20 person
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Once my project gets to that point I certainly will shoot you a message.
__________________
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The Bowser Journal
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Youtube - bit.ly/TheBowserJournal
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04-28-2017, 06:48 PM
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#142
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
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Hi there. We are buying our first bus this weekend and want to do solar panels which I see you explained to another person on here. My question is are we able to have it set up for solar power off grid but yet still have the option to plug into campgrounds on grid?
Thanks in advance 😀
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04-28-2017, 06:54 PM
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#143
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oswaltadventures
Hi there. We are buying our first bus this weekend and want to do solar panels which I see you explained to another person on here. My question is are we able to have it set up for solar power off grid but yet still have the option to plug into campgrounds on grid?
Thanks in advance 😀
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Start here
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
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04-28-2017, 08:22 PM
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#144
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Fairfield Bay, Arkansas
Posts: 163
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: Ward?
Engine: 8.2 liter ?
Rated Cap: 24 Passenger
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I absolutely agree with Stu and Filo! Go to the HandyBobSolar website and read!
I used two 240 watt (house size) panels and an MPPT charge controller to charge four 6volt golf cart batteries in series parallel for a 12v pack. Working great!
Welcome aboard!
Ross
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05-02-2017, 11:48 AM
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#145
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Also the answer is Yes, you can absolutely set things up like that. You can have your batteries charged by either energy source as well as powering your appliances with either energy source. Read up; it's complicated.
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08-20-2017, 09:13 PM
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#146
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 19
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Hey Plasma I have some solar related questions. Could you help a fella out?
Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
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09-17-2017, 03:40 PM
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#147
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 0
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IHi I'm living as I'm building and I'm at the A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING stage . I'm trying to get some input on wiring for shore power.
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03-12-2018, 11:03 AM
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#148
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Duncan, South Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Chevy Blue Bird
Engine: 3116 Cat
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Stranded copper wire
So happy I found this thread!
Our electrical is what's keeping us from really getting sh*t done. We need to get these walls closed up.
Anyway, were mainly wonder what this THHP wire is? None of our local stores (tractor supply or welding supply) have 2AWT black and red stranded copper wire. We only need about 10 feet of each. So, I figured I could just buy some online, but I keep seeing this stranded THHP. It definitely looks different than the stuff that isn't THHP so we're not sure what we need. And I guess we'll need lugs too? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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03-12-2018, 02:40 PM
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#149
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapletwag
So happy I found this thread!
Our electrical is what's keeping us from really getting sh*t done. We need to get these walls closed up.
Anyway, were mainly wonder what this THHP wire is? None of our local stores (tractor supply or welding supply) have 2AWT black and red stranded copper wire. We only need about 10 feet of each. So, I figured I could just buy some online, but I keep seeing this stranded THHP. It definitely looks different than the stuff that isn't THHP so we're not sure what we need. And I guess we'll need lugs too? Any help is greatly appreciated!
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You might be looking for THHN wire? Stiff-but-flexible stuff, good for wiring batteries. #2 is good for a little under 100A. Diesel starters pull a lot more than that. #2/0 (double-ought) would be good for whole-bus 12VDC loads.
Did someone tell you you needed to use this to connect your 120VAC load center? Enquiring minds want to know.
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03-12-2018, 03:45 PM
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#150
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Duncan, South Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Chevy Blue Bird
Engine: 3116 Cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox
You might be looking for THHN wire? Stiff-but-flexible stuff, good for wiring batteries. #2 is good for a little under 100A. Diesel starters pull a lot more than that. #2/0 (double-ought) would be good for whole-bus 12VDC loads.
Did someone tell you you needed to use this to connect your 120VAC load center? Enquiring minds want to know.
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Yes sorry I meant THHN. So that's what I'm wondering what's the difference between THHN and the copper stranded that doesn't say THHN? Is there a difference. Yes we're using the wire to connect our batteries into parallel. We have 4 225 AH Marine/RV batteries from sams club.
All our local shops are out of the red and/or black, do we necessarily need to purchase red and black separately or can we just purchase black and then mark it to identify as the red wire ourselves?
This is just going off info we've learned from YouTube and skoolie.net
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03-12-2018, 04:42 PM
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#151
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapletwag
Yes sorry I meant THHN. So that's what I'm wondering what's the difference between THHN and the copper stranded that doesn't say THHN? Is there a difference. Yes we're using the wire to connect our batteries into parallel. We have 4 225 AH Marine/RV batteries from sams club.
All our local shops are out of the red and/or black, do we necessarily need to purchase red and black separately or can we just purchase black and then mark it to identify as the red wire ourselves?
This is just going off info we've learned from YouTube and skoolie.net
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Use the black, just put some red heat-shrink around the ends.
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03-12-2018, 04:57 PM
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#152
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Duncan, South Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Chevy Blue Bird
Engine: 3116 Cat
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Great thanks. And again I'm not sure of the difference between THHN and non THHN? Is there one which is better for our project or doesn't really matter when dealing with this small of a scale?
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03-12-2018, 05:03 PM
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#153
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapletwag
Great thanks. And again I'm not sure of the difference between THHN and non THHN? Is there one which is better for our project or doesn't really matter when dealing with this small of a scale?
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The THHN designation is about the coating, not the wire.
https://www.thespruce.com/understand...tering-1152874
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03-12-2018, 09:12 PM
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#154
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 150
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mapletwag
Great thanks. And again I'm not sure of the difference between THHN and non THHN? Is there one which is better for our project or doesn't really matter when dealing with this small of a scale?
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Here you go:
THHN THWN THW Acronym Meanings
Edit - OOPS - sorry I didn't catch the previous response above before posting - need a delete post button.
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03-13-2018, 01:27 AM
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#155
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
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hey Plasma! Thanks creating space for questions
So I’ve taken all the panels in my bus and all of the electrical is exposed... now what? Like, do I need to cut all of those lines and start over? I’m not sure my next steps and the guy I’m hiring to do my electrical says he doesn’t want to touch any of the bus’s already set up electric panel and install a new 12v breaker that just plugs into shure power. Is this the best option? Thanks in advance!
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03-13-2018, 08:32 AM
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#156
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 150
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbethc33
So I’ve taken all the panels in my bus and all of the electrical is exposed... now what? Like, do I need to cut all of those lines and start over?
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Don't cut any of the wires that you haven't positively identified as not needed any more (old camera wires for example). If in doubt, leave it. Most of the existing wires are needed for tail lights, turn signals, running lights, brake lights, etc. The only thing I removed was the camera wiring. Even the speaker wires I re-routed and will re-use for new speakers.
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03-23-2018, 10:17 PM
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#158
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Right ... here goes.
From the back of the shore-power connection, the 120V goes straight to the 120V input of the inverter/charger, via a 50 Amp breaker (fuse)
Your 4 batteries are linked in parallel, and the output goes to your 12V distribution panel. Needs cables big enough to carry all the anticipated load on that panel, and needs a breaker in between.
The charger output goes to the batteries. Wiring the batteries so that they all charge and discharge evenly takes some thought and some careful measuring of cable lengths. There are websites to help you with that. Set the inverter output rate for charging at 10% of the battery bank capacity.
The solar panels go to your solar charge controller, and then to the batteries ... needs another fuse.
The 120V output from the inverter goes straight into a load center that distributes the power to your 120V circuits.
There, that's the basics.
ps ... You get outside power either from a shore-power connection or your generator. Your system sees them as the same thing. So if you want to use the generator where you don't have shore-power, just plug the generator into your outside SP connector as if you did.
pps ... To monitor it all you should look at the Trimetric units. To use one you will need a shunt on the battery output line.
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03-23-2018, 10:32 PM
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#159
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Just to add, because I didn't want to ppps
There are a bunch of blogs and websites out there to help you get this right. It's a well-trodden path and what you are asking is standard stuff.
You need help with wire sizing, placement of units, where to use fuses, breakers, shunts. How to join and terminate wires, etc, etc.
None of this is difficult, just make a plan and follow it using the advice for each step.
Wiring batteries together is not as simple as it sounds. There are reasons why you should get your inverter as close to the batteries as you can, and why a Trimetric monitor is a good thing.
Also, which type of solar charge controller and what gauge of wire to use ... the list goes on and none of it is hard.
Basing your system around that AIMS Inverter/Charger was, imo, a smart move.
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03-24-2018, 06:32 AM
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#160
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Question: separate inverter for fridge?
I'm in the planning stages of my electrical and I'm curious if using a smaller separate AC inverter to power the fridge is a good idea. The fridge will be running 24/7 and with what I've read about inverters, I thought a single dedicated inverter for the fridge might have some power instead of having a large inverter that is constantly in use. Thoughts and opinions are welcome.
I will be full timing and have 1400 Watts of solar (maybe more) a 5000 watt diesel Genny (to run air conditioner while on road) and an option for shore power if I'm ever in a place I can get it.
Sent from my Vivo 5R using Tapatalk
__________________
Nick
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