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Old 11-15-2017, 01:57 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
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Heater removal

I have a 98 international amtran. I've read other threads on removal but was hoping it was as simple as 1 2 3.

So, does this particular bus have "valves" i need to close for any reason? It seems it should be fairly easy. I see 2 hoses and i guess the wires for power coming from where the drivers seat is to the back. I've read in other threads and seen vids of people cutting the hoses and looping them near the front. Is it as simple as that?

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Old 11-15-2017, 03:25 PM   #2
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you should have valves somewhere follow the lines through the firewall they are probably in your engine compartment. With the valves shut disconnect the lines and catch the coolant in something completing the loop after your defroster will allow you to use it. You may want to put the pump back in your system if your defrost doesn't get warm enough. If your removing the rear heaters permanently Trace the wires into the panel and disconnect them there so you don't short them later by accidentally closing the switch. It's fairly easy but can be a mess getting them out if not careful. Good luck!
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Old 11-15-2017, 04:35 PM   #3
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Yea i want to remove it permanently. Whats this pump you mentioned?
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Old 11-15-2017, 06:12 PM   #4
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Yea i want to remove it permanently. Whats this pump you mentioned?
There is a pump somewhere in the system that moves hot coolant into the heaters it will be inline with your hoses. You may not need it at all but I would keep it and if your defrost doesn't get warm put it back in somewhere up front it will make more sense when you find it
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Old 11-18-2017, 03:57 PM   #5
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Where should i look for whatever I need to loop the hoses? I'm guessing there is a u shaped piece and fitting? Could I find it at like Harbor Freight? Or something?
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Old 11-18-2017, 04:09 PM   #6
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Where should i look for whatever I need to loop the hoses? I'm guessing there is a u shaped piece and fitting? Could I find it at like Harbor Freight? Or something?
Take a few inches of hose to home depot/Lowes and ask plumbing guy. Tell him what you are doing- 2-el's make a U. I like barbs on the hose ends of the fittings.
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Old 11-18-2017, 05:28 PM   #7
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I dont have any hose to take but i do know the hose is 1 inch as it says '1" heater hose SAE 20R3' on it
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Old 11-18-2017, 07:06 PM   #8
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I dont have any hose to take but i do know the hose is 1 inch as it says '1" heater hose SAE 20R3' on it
Two 90's will work fine, the stock fittings on mine were copper so that's what I used.
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Old 11-23-2017, 06:01 AM   #9
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I don't know what you meant by 2 90's but are these the valves im looking for? The red water faucet looking knobs. One of them is kinda dirty in the bottom left corner
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Old 11-23-2017, 07:27 AM   #10
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I don't know what you meant by 2 90's but are these the valves im looking for? The red water faucet looking knobs. One of them is kinda dirty in the bottom left corner

those are it!.. what was meant by 90s. is right after your driver heater, install 2 90 degree elbows connected by a piece of hose to make the "loop" in the heating system complete, and then you just take out all the heaters behind the driver. closing those valves shuts off the coolant so when you cut the hoses you dont lose all of the antifreeze in the engine. they also keep the inside cooler in summer you keep those faucets closed so not to circulate hot coolant through the front heaters.

-Christopher
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:16 AM   #11
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Thanks cadillackid! Does anything need to be clamped? Was looking on amazon for the elbows but they dont seem to be what i need. Might have to go to home Depot
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:37 PM   #12
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Thanks cadillackid! Does anything need to be clamped? Was looking on amazon for the elbows but they dont seem to be what i need. Might have to go to home Depot
Your local plumbing suppliers would have more choice than Home Depot, and counter-staff who would sort it out for you. Yes, you also need stainless steel worm-drive clamps. They will have those too.

The cheapest way to do it would simply be a couple of straight connectors, 4 worm-drive clamps and make a loop from spare tubing, if you can hide it.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:30 PM   #13
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These might have already been closed. Clockwise would be closing them right?
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:23 PM   #14
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Yes just normal valves
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:36 PM   #15
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I finally went to a plumbing supply store and a guy suggested this based on what i told him i was trying to do and what i saw on the Internet and tried to describe

What do you guys think?
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:20 PM   #16
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No, absolutely not. You've clearly got a "C" there, when what you need is a "U".
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:52 AM   #17
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No, absolutely not. You've clearly got a "C" there, when what you need is a "U".
Fixed for ewe, robin.


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YES ! That is perfect- love the barbs. Street el's and union might cost more than regular els and nipple and flow less.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:33 AM   #18
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That setup should work. I'm curious to know how that much weight hangs down there.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:53 AM   #19
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No, absolutely not. You've clearly got a "C" there, when what you need is a "U".
Cant tell if you attempted to make a joke or not..?
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:02 AM   #20
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Yes, the "C" to "U" is meant as a joke.

Your plumbing setup should work, but as others have indicated there may be some flow restriction. I doubt it would affect your cooling system since the "U" modification simply cuts out the rear heater loop.
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