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Old 09-23-2018, 05:07 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Help - How to re-skin end cap and front post roof raise?

Hey Skoolie Friends,

Been a while! We got married, had a baby and put our project on hold for a bit. Back at it now and back to hitting our knowledge wall. We successfully completed our roof raise, decided to go unconventional with hybrid plywood to metal siding instead of sheet metal so we will have tiny house feel with real house windows from inside. We still have the back and front of the bus to close up, and unfortunately the plywood was shy of the top a couple inches for the sides so we need to figure that one out.

Here's my question, maybe it will help others too, from researching on youtube other conversions am I right that we should use:
VHB tape on bottom to hold in place while working on back.
22 guage sheet metal is bendable and we can use that for the curved back ends
16 guage is what we are likely attaching to, and could be used for any flat sides if needed
3/16 button head stainless steel rivets are what we want
Dap Extreme Stretch Calking? Flexes and doesn't break

How would you close that front top section pictured?

What kind of rivet gun should we get? Rentable some place?

Any other suggestions? First time working with metal or riveting so any advice, videos, help appreciated.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:18 PM   #2
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Steve has done it the proper way IMHO. Welded to prevent any chance of leaks and the transition looks better this way.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pn...3re-21182.html

Hand rivet guns are around $20, you don't want to do this by hand. Air riveters run around $50 and well worth keeping around if you use rivets at all. Use a blind rivet that is sealed on the back end.
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Old 09-23-2018, 08:08 PM   #3
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hmmmm

would not use stainless rivets. steel yes stainless no. Look at how the curved ends of airstream trailers are built. Might help you figure out how to skin it. Also look at how metal air planes are put together, might help see solutions you did not know about.

Look up the tool called a "cleco" It is a kind of temporary rivet. I buy mine from air craft spruce, but many many places sell new and used. You would need cleco pliers also.

That gap at the top, what about some sort of drip rail.... kind of sticks out a little from the side so drips dont fall down the sides, but a couple of inches from the side.

william
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
would not use stainless rivets. steel yes stainless no. Look at how the curved ends of airstream trailers are built. Might help you figure out how to skin it. Also look at how metal air planes are put together, might help see solutions you did not know about.

Look up the tool called a "cleco" It is a kind of temporary rivet. I buy mine from air craft spruce, but many many places sell new and used. You would need cleco pliers also.

That gap at the top, what about some sort of drip rail.... kind of sticks out a little from the side so drips dont fall down the sides, but a couple of inches from the side.

william
Why not stainless? I've been using closed end stainless blind rivets for skinning with great success.

Also- 22ga is way too thin. I've used it in a pinch to cover some bus windows and wasn't happy with the oil can effect.
16ga is overkill. The bus is pretty close to 18ga +/-. 20ga would be a lot better than 22.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:40 PM   #5
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Airstream trailer is not a good comparison as they are aluminum skinned with aluminum buck rivets. My Airstream had big dents in all 4 corners. I can see where Airstream just cut the dents out and reskinned over the old skin.
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