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Old 06-29-2017, 10:54 PM   #1
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Question Help removing 1/4" Huck Rivets

Hi all,

Looking to remove wall brackets that mounted the seating that have since been removed.

Found the video below. Punched out centers just like the guy said but it does not loosen anything! HELP!



Also, I want to know if the floor grate should just be covered when installing new floor.

Any help is welcome.

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Old 06-30-2017, 03:14 AM   #2
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Try an air chisel set. the pointy one will knock those out real quick.
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:57 AM   #3
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The rivets don't fall out of the ceiling when you push the pin back in. You don't even have to push the pin but it does make life easier. Like ECCB said, air chisel is your friend. The air gun and chisel are cheap if you have access to a compressor. The pancake compressors won't do. Mine is a 15 gallon and runs constantly but removing the rivets by hand is a total PITA. I did a dozen or so while standing around waiting for the air gun while someone else was using it. Good workout but there are less painful ways to kill yourself.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:58 AM   #4
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If those rivets are aluminum and you don't mind scuffing the surrounding area then try a flap disc on an angle grinder. 60 grit will knock those heads off in a second, then you can pry the pieces up.

I tried drilling, chiselling (w/ and w/o air chisel), grinding and flapping. I like the flap wheel the best.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:23 AM   #5
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If those rivets are aluminum ... a flap disc on an angle grinder. 60 grit
The AL doesn't clog up your flapper wheel? Even with 60 grit I would think it would.

If you REALLY don't care, use 16 grit.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:24 AM   #6
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The AL doesn't clog up your flapper wheel? Even with 60 grit I would think it would.

If you REALLY don't care, use 16 grit.
I don't think it did.. It's possible that the rivets were steel, actually. It's been so long now Whatever they were composed of, the flap discs ate them up swiftly!
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:28 AM   #7
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Probably steel. I doubt they'd use the wrong rivets at the factory. And aluminum would be wrong for a steel bus.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:31 AM   #8
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Probably steel. I doubt they'd use the wrong rivets at the factory. And aluminum would be wrong for a steel bus.
I dunno, I thought the ones below the windows were AL. They came out easier than the ceiling ones. I dunno if that's because they are slightly smaller or what. I have/had a magnet on the bus, I'll have to check.
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:18 AM   #9
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I found the easiest for me (I don't own air tools) was an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind down the head of the rivet till it was non existent, then a punch the center with a hammer and punch. Also if you can access from opposite side, get a cut off wheel cut it flush from the backside and punch the center out. Once you remove either side of the rivet it should loose its grip and come right out.

I tried drilling but I broke too many bits because the rivets are not flat in the center. And then there's good old elbow grease and a BFH, but I found that method to bend the sheet metal all up.
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:38 AM   #10
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I found the easiest for me (I don't own air tools) was an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind down the head of the rivet till it was non existent, then a punch the center with a hammer and punch. Also if you can access from opposite side, get a cut off wheel cut it flush from the backside and punch the center out. Once you remove either side of the rivet it should loose its grip and come right out.

I tried drilling but I broke too many bits because the rivets are not flat in the center. And then there's good old elbow grease and a BFH, but I found that method to bend the sheet metal all up.
and a lot of the rivets spin while drilling making drilling not a efficient solution also im on my 3rd grinder so seriously do not consider the cheap one and get a good one
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