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Old 02-03-2017, 12:20 PM   #11
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Location: hills of sw virginia
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Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
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Look at my album. Just one way of doing things. Lots of wood to screw to.
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living in a bus down by the river.
my build pics
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/membe...albums942.html
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:49 PM   #12
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And THANK YOU!! For all the helpful input.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:58 PM   #13
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
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If one can't afford spray foam, foam board is a good alternative.
Spray foam is king, for sure though.
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Old 02-04-2017, 06:42 PM   #14
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Thank you for y'all's input!

To Superdave,

In your album, it looks like you didn't build any wooden frame work for the walls, and just used the metal framework that was there?
Also I see sprayfoam, then polypro, and then what did you use for a moisture barrier and your final outer wall?

I am also wondering what do you/did you secure your outer wall to? The steel bus frame doesn't seem like something I can drill into (?).

And finally,

I watched a video that said to put the metal walls back in as they serve a structural purpose to the bus, but it seems like many people simply replace them.
What is your (or anybody's!) suggestion?

Thanks guys!
I am eager to get started.
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Old 02-04-2017, 06:45 PM   #15
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Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
I keep looking at all my roof rivets with utter dread.... Everywhere they're placed is a thumb's width apart
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:27 PM   #16
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
I keep looking at all my roof rivets with utter dread.... Everywhere they're placed is a thumb's width apart
I've got video to post of rivet removal.
Will have the vid up tomorrow evening.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:29 PM   #17
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 10,466
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roundbed View Post
Thank you for y'all's input!

To Superdave,

In your album, it looks like you didn't build any wooden frame work for the walls, and just used the metal framework that was there?
Also I see sprayfoam, then polypro, and then what did you use for a moisture barrier and your final outer wall?

I am also wondering what do you/did you secure your outer wall to? The steel bus frame doesn't seem like something I can drill into (?).

And finally,

I watched a video that said to put the metal walls back in as they serve a structural purpose to the bus, but it seems like many people simply replace them.
What is your (or anybody's!) suggestion?

Thanks guys!
I am eager to get started.
You don't have to put the tin can interior back on. It won't really work tryning to do so, anyhow. Would be a huge pita for nothing.
THe sky won't fall if you pull it out and put in whatever you like.
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
THe sky won't fall if you pull it out and put in whatever you like.
Yeah. The ribs that support the roof/walls are practically a roll cage anyway. That sheet metal seems pretty minimal in comparison.
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:00 PM   #19
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 10,466
Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasd View Post
Yeah. The ribs that support the roof/walls are practically a roll cage anyway. That sheet metal seems pretty minimal in comparison.
Its often nothing more than perforated 18 or 20 gauge.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:29 PM   #20
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Has anyone used the foam from the seats for wall insulation? I am considering it. We live in Arkansas and the winter is short and we will have a woodstove. In the past I have had buses in the winter in Canada and California and never insulated, but did have a woodstove and lots of blankets at night!
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