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Old 10-16-2015, 04:08 PM   #11
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the rust converter i got also said it prevents flash rusting as well, as long as you apply the paint 48 hours after your spray it and let it dry. if you've read on here too the best time to use it is at night, the product needs to stay wet as long as possible, so i sprayed it on at about 8pm and was wet all through the night and dried around 10am, the results were unbelievable, every single speck of rust was gone. i did have to power wash and sweep the residue left over several times though, but was well worth the money.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trask97140 View Post
My process was angle grinder for cleaning/scarring surface. Wiped with acetone to further clean. Applied a 2 part epoxy around the hole, then caped it with little 1"x 1" metal cutout. On the smaller holes I just used epoxy.

Plan on covering/Insulating the floor down the road. So the little metal cutouts wont even be noticed.
I did this on my first bus.

This is the best overall method for durability and longevity short of welding.

The epoxy and metal patch method in some ways is better than welding. It is a complete bond between the two layers of metal. No gap for rust to get between and cause a issue.
Welding done wrong can also cause a porous mess on small holes, and runs the risk of warping the metal.

The use of flux core wire in a mig welder is a big no no. It causes nice little spots of impurity's in the weld, just welcoming new rust to start nearly immediately after the repair.

Nat
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:07 PM   #13
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How about fiberglass and bondo? Doesn't rust...we have scraps leftover from our window project...has anybody had experience using fiberglass patches? Its also a better thermal conductor
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:18 PM   #14
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Fiberglass will work, but I like epoxy better.

I find it sticks to steel better.

Nat
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:21 PM   #15
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I mean using epoxy to bond a fiberglass patch rather than a metal patch.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:23 PM   #16
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Sounds like it should work.

Nat
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:53 PM   #17
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My Hobart mig came with flux core wire...
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
My Hobart mig came with flux core wire...
So did my Hobart 210. The 140 is able to run solid core and gas with a few minor adjustments just like my 210.

I have been using my 210 in a shop setting for the last few weeks building a hopper feed for the half million BTU coal boiler. We have it running off 20 amp 120 volt coming from the solar power. I love it, works vary well.

We are the only school bus shop in western Canada running completely off grid.

Nat
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Old 10-17-2015, 02:22 AM   #19
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I covered the holes in my bus with aluminum tape (after grinding all the rust off and phosphate coating it), and then painted the floor with Deck Restore type paint. It is 10 times thicker than regular paint (seems to have a lot of sand mixed in with it). Can't even tell where the holes used to be, but I will be putting carpet runners down over the center to protect the spots that I know are weaker than the rest of the floor. The deck coat makes a coating about 1/8 inch thick. Doesn't cover much though - only about 40 square feet per gallon - took 4 gallons to do my whole floor.
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:22 PM   #20
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Join Date: Jul 2015
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Engine: 10.4 L Caterpillar "3208" V8
Hi Trask97140 and Nat_Ster:

What exactly is the "1x1 metal cutout? What kind of metal. Sourced from where? Also, any specifics on the epoxy that works best, or are they all the same? I have been looking at POR 15 putty products that have a good reputation. Any experience with the POR 15 products?

Thank you,

Chrissy
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