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Old 07-28-2018, 08:09 PM   #1
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How to change tube in tire?

Anyone got a "how to" on how to replace my tube in my outer rear passenger tire?

Short version: had a tire shop throw some air in my tires. Drove around a bit (~20 miles or so). Came home, ate dinner. Went outside and heard a tire hissing. Looked at valve stem. Leaking where my finger is in the picture below.

Old tire. 9.00r20 tube type.

She's in my driveway at the moment but I'm trying to move out!

Ideas, thoughts, suggestions?

Trying to keep from having to get her towed. Thanks in advance.IMG_20180728_200712.jpegIMG_20180728_200701.jpeg
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:28 AM   #2
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After talking to my step-dad who's owned a couple buses, it's not something I am going to.do myself. Split rims and tubes and no experience or the proper tools. Having a truck tire company coming out to do tube and put on a new tire as this one is super cracked and dry rotted
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:33 PM   #3
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if that bus is a 1990, its a retainer ring rim not a true split or 3 piece.. you still want to have some HEAVY chains or a cage to air up one of those..



"technically a retainer ring rim is easier for a DIY than a single piece rim, because you dont have to have massive tools to get the tire on the rim, and get the bead to seat, however if you dont know what you are doing that ring can still go flying... or the AIR from it can KILL you.. so yeah.. retainer-ring ring rims are still quite dangerous if you dont know what you are doing..



likely only a real truck tire shop will work on it..

-Christopher
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if that bus is a 1990, its a retainer ring rim not a true split or 3 piece.. you still want to have some HEAVY chains or a cage to air up one of those..



"technically a retainer ring rim is easier for a DIY than a single piece rim, because you dont have to have massive tools to get the tire on the rim, and get the bead to seat, however if you dont know what you are doing that ring can still go flying... or the AIR from it can KILL you.. so yeah.. retainer-ring ring rims are still quite dangerous if you dont know what you are doing..



likely only a real truck tire shop will work on it..

-Christopher
It was is a retainer ring I think. It had one piece that came off. I called a mobile heavy duty truck tire place.

They brought a "new tire" just in case. That new tire was from 1998... Had the guy check out my current tire. He said the tire was fine and he wouldn't trust the "new tire" since it was 20 years old.

He put in the new tube in about an hour. Cost me $200. He recommended that when I get new tires, which I will in a month or so, to go to the 10r20 or 10r22 (not sure which he said), because that's what is common now.
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:08 PM   #5
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if you can get 22.5" rims go for it... most likely you'll need Budd STUD pilot type rims.. most modern are HUB pilot and there is a difference.. just because its a studded hib doesnt mean its hiub pilot.. it wont be on yours 99% likely..



if you have dayton spoke you can still have 1 piece rims.. I have daytons on my DEV bus and it has single piece 22.5" rims..



you'll have many more tire choices when you buy new tires if you switch to 22.5" rims.. you can go 10R22.5 or the most common 11R22.5, assuming you get the right rim.. 7" width minimum I think for most 11R tires.. 11R22.5 will give you a bit more rolling circumference too which will give you more top end speed if you are geared real low..

-Christopher
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:12 PM   #6
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If I keep.my current rims, can I still get away from the 900r20 tires?

Any idea how much it would be to.switch rims? (Edit: looking at prices of new rims. $1500-2000 for the rims, new).

I really like.the idea of.goimg up.to the 11r22.5. it would give me that extra couple.of.mph I'm missing.

I appreciate your feedback Christopher. Thank you.

I'll take some pictures on the way out to home Depot
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:35 PM   #7
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with retainer ring rims from what I understand you are stuck with Tube and flap type tires.. these rims werent designed for tubeless. im not sure any tires were designed for these 20 inch rims that werent tubeless.. my advice is to keep a tube and flap with you all the time.. old-time truck tire shops will always be able to replace them... newer shops may refuse roadside service because of lack of cage..



for you youself be sure to buy a clip on air-chuck tire inflation hose with a gauge and valve in it.. when you inflate, your stand with your body inline with the tread and not perpendicular to the tire..



generally retaining rings wont fly off of a rim where the bead is set.. the design is that the setting of the bead and more pressure on the bead tends to seat and hold the ring in place.. but like anbythiung thats design, thats not failure..



even on my regular tires i use my clip on chuck and stand away from the sidewalls.. a blow-out of a regular tire.. the AIR (no metal or rubber flying).. the AIR alone can seriously injure you.. not likely.. but.. for a 50 dollar tool and a little sense its worth it for me to be careful about my tires..



I bought this one..



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-Christopher
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:29 AM   #8
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Thanks again for the advice. I will follow it.

Talked with the wife, I think before we roll out we are going to go ahead and change the rims to 22.5 that we can go tubeless on.
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Old 07-30-2018, 04:53 AM   #9
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Are you on budd hubs or Dayton spoke? I’m interested to know what you find as far as wheels if you are budd hub ,
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:14 AM   #10
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Yeah, I want to know now, too Budd or Dayton style? From the above pictures it sort of looks like Dayton style, which is good news from an affordability stand point. I know around here I can buy a new Dayton tubeless rim for $125 CAD.
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:30 AM   #11
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The guy who changed the tube said I could just get some Dayton style rims to put on. I'll investigate this evening if it's stud or hub. The bus is at my MIL house now and we are back to our place to finish moving
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:32 AM   #12
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Here, check this Skoolie discussion out for the correct nomenclature: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/wh...nfo-10659.html.


It'll help you when you go shopping.
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:38 AM   #13
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Thank you for the link
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Here, check this Skoolie discussion out for the correct nomenclature: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/wh...nfo-10659.html.


It'll help you when you go shopping.
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:18 PM   #14
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First two are the front passenger tire. Last pic is the rear passenger tire.IMG_20180806_191655.jpegIMG_20180806_191659.jpegIMG_20180806_191706.jpeg
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:45 PM   #15
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So you do have Dayton style hubs. Tubeless rims are cheap for that style. Checkout out this catalog, page 21, for pictures and info: https://www.accuridewheelendsolution...ct-Catalog.pdf


You can find the rims all over the place. Heavy duty wreckers might be worth checking out, but I know they are reasonably priced even new.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Here, check this Skoolie discussion out for the correct nomenclature: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/wh...nfo-10659.html.


It'll help you when you go shopping.

I added a note about types of split rims to the above discussion. Sorry no pictures to go with it.

For me I have dayton wheels, I already have 10R 22.5 on tubeless rims ready to go on as soon as I finish brake work.

Southwest wheel had the best price I found for the rims. were around $100 each
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:34 AM   #17
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Any decent truck/equipment tire shop should be able to find you rims that will work on your bus.

In most cases the cost of a good used rim and a tubeless tire will be less expensive than a new tube, tube type tire, and dismount/mount of a tube type tire.

The Dayton spoke wheels are still being sold as original equipment if you order the truck or bus that way. So new and decent used wheels that will fit your spokes are available all over the place. Almost every skeleton trailer used to carry shipping containers use spoke wheels.

The big advantage of having spoke wheels is anyone can remove them with normal hand tools. 10-hole Budd wheels require serious tools to remove the lug nuts. The only real problem of putting spoke wheels back onto the spokes is you have to line them up properly or they will wobble as you go down the road.
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:31 AM   #18
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This great information. I'll keep it updated when I finally get to it. Probably around mid September. But keep the great info coming!
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
I added a note about types of split rims to the above discussion. Sorry no pictures to go with it.

For me I have dayton wheels, I already have 10R 22.5 on tubeless rims ready to go on as soon as I finish brake work.

Southwest wheel had the best price I found for the rims. were around $100 each
Cadillackid has some 20" tires he's trying to sell.
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Old 08-14-2018, 10:31 PM   #20
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I'll be switching to 22.5 wheels and tires. What width would I be look for? 8.25?
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