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Old 11-28-2015, 06:06 PM   #21
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
The onboard heaters keep about a 20-30 temperature difference above the outside. This is fine if the temps outside are 35+. But in single digit temps, at the moment, I'm stuck with high idle and enough blankets on the bed to prevent movement. Come the 3rd when my SSDI comes in, I'm getting a propane heater. A week of freezing my anatomy is more than enough for me.
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:35 PM   #22
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
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Air leaks can rob a surprising amount of heat. If the windows are leaking, and what bus windows don't, then heat-shrink film (the kind used for retail packaging) held in place with double-sided tape can help control air leakage and can also work like a second pane of glass to reduce convection cooling (the chilling of the air near the glass, which then falls downward, and creates an air current near the glass). There's a convenient Frost King branded kit for this available in home centers but heat shrink film from any source is equivalent and could be cheaper.

Apart from the windows, check other penetrations like the overhead flashers, the electrical panel door outside the driver's seat, look for a fresh air vent in/below the dash by the driver's seat, etc. Some Thomas models have an air vent in the roof too. This one I think isn't visible from the inside; a louvered panel on the roof ahead of the front escape hatch is the tell-tale sign.

Any measures like these will make you a little more comfortable now and save you propane later. If you're in a place with electric hookups, maybe consider an electric blanket. I find it's hardest to stay warm at night when I lay motionless in the dark as opposed to the daytime when the sun shines and I'm moving about.

Remember with propane heat if you have combustion inside the conditioned space (open burning, catalytic heater, whatever) then water vapor is added to the air. That needs to be vented out to limit condensation on/inside the walls, which could cause all kinds of water (and ice?) damage, including saturating the fiberglass insulation. And CO/CO2 venting, replacement oxygen, etc.
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:38 PM   #23
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Thanks for the clues. I plan on blanking out the majority of the windows, i.e., removal and installing plywood, and installing 1" rigid foam on the sides. I'll have underneath sprayed as well.
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:29 PM   #24
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I'm parked fur the night. It's 5 outside and we are plenty warn. Insulated curtains over the windows and a webasto.
Driving today was ok but had to have heaters blaring. Finally pulled the curtains and that helped. Good day to find where your air leaks are.
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:07 PM   #25
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Location: Billings, MT
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I ran out of diesel this morning. Methinks that the t-stat needs replacing, too. The cores only registered 80.

Where in MT are you?
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:34 PM   #26
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We were in Deer Lodge this morning. We're from Trout Creek area.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Some Thomas models have an air vent in the roof too. This one I think isn't visible from the inside; a louvered panel on the roof ahead of the front escape hatch is the tell-tale sign.
You're talking about the gizmo that looks like a whale blowhole, right?
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:04 PM   #28
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Bummed a propane heater from my brother last night and added another curtain in the front half of the wee beastie. Those curtains make a major difference! Of course, insulation will help, too.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:20 AM   #29
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I might be a day late and a dollar short here, but when I go tent camping in cold environments (like 20 degrees and below) I take my Mr Heater Big Buddy and 2 20 pound propane cylinders.

Turn it on high for about an hour, and then once is nice and warm, put it on medium or low. Last me a week and a half per propane cylinder and keeps me nice and toasty all night long.
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Old 02-24-2016, 04:50 PM   #30
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I'm having trouble with my floor sweating, similarly to the windows during cold weather. This was a wheelchair bus and it seems the floor has no insulation whatsoever and draws moisture to the point of pooling slightly in the early cold mornings. I'm thinking of spraying insulation on the underside of the floor. Does anyone have any experience with this type of spray on insulation in or on vehicles?
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