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Old 07-22-2015, 12:32 PM   #11
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Location: Chicago, Illinois
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So I am going to throw down the plywood afterwork today. sounds like best way is those tek screws for what i am doing.

My other plan was to go underneath the bus and seal off as many screws as i could find with homemade foaming agent (almost like that yellow foam insulation stuff)

that will help prevent moisture.

i might use something "like" liquid nails but something easy to lay down.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ElizaHasAPlan View Post
Thanks for the link! I never even made the connection that the wood on boats would be perfect for a bus conversion. Aaaand, it's prettier than cheapo luan
Yeah, and there are suppliers of this stuff in lots of places.
I'm likely to go somewhere local and get some blemished stuff for the floors. they have decorative grade stuff that would be perfect for visible paneling.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:16 PM   #13
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Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:51 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by opus View Post
Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
This is the right way when using plywood to prevent thermal bridging.

This is also how JakeC did his.

Jake C's thread.

Liquid Nails is useless when gluing to wood to metal. It may seem that is has bonded, but will release in no time from the vibrations in the bus.

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Old 02-22-2016, 11:51 PM   #15
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Location: NW Pennsylvania
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Engine: Gas 6.0l BB Chevy
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Though still in process of my own build, I'd started laying some flooring/insulation using screws and liquid nails - but I'll be taking that back up. (Fortunately there wasn't much put down)
The way I'll be doing it now will have a small gap between the panels and bus body (probably 1/8" to 1/4"). Where one panel meets another, there will be a 1/8" gap but also a notch cut out of each panel and an insert cut to fill those notches between the two. This should keep the panels from shifting too much.

To help minimize side to side shifting, I'm moving away from liquid nails (which hardens over time and will break free from the metal) and instead will randomly place some glops (that's the technical term, lol) of clear silicone. It'll stick to both the steel and wood, will remain pliable and help prevent noise. I'll also be putting random lines of silicone between the panels and bus body, filling the gaps in those areas. I'll probably put a 6" line every couple of feet.

Hopefully that all made sense as it's late and I'm whooped.
Relax and enjoy the scenery, it IS floored.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:05 AM   #16
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whats going to keep it down in a roll over situation, i screwed the hell out of mine. nothing is perfect
living in a bus down by the river.
my build pics
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:29 AM   #17
Bus Crazy
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Location: EHT New Jersey
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Year: 2003
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I'm planning on bolting 1x4s either side of the aisle with cross beams bolted through both.
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
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attach, fasten, floor, plywood, sub-floor

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