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Old 07-20-2015, 03:06 PM   #1
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Question How to lay down plywood?

Hi all,

Simple question and process just thought i would ask the pros.

What is the best way to fasten the plywood to the floor to minimize torquing, end-bends, etc. I am putting an underlayment and laminate on top. Yes i know laminate is an "iffy route" but it was the cheaper/nicer looking route so please no comments on how laminate is a bad idea lol.

Any suggestions on the best way to lay laminate down are greatly appreciated though!!


and as always.....>>>>>LOVE THIS>>>>>>>

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Old 07-20-2015, 03:24 PM   #2
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I placed mine with 2 coins separating them to keep the from rubbing during frame torque. Then I used a self tapping 2.5" Deck Screw especially along the edges. Worked out for me.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:35 PM   #3
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I used the tek screws with wings. The tek screw has a drill point that
drills through the plywood and the metal and the wings ream out the
plywood to allow the screw to pass through the plywood and get a better
grip on the metal. Once the drill point penetrates the metal the wings
break off and allow the self tapping screw to thread into the metal.
Threads on the screw are machine screw threads.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:41 PM   #4
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Yep - those are the ones
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:20 AM   #5
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I have seen the work liquid nails tossed around. Would i use that to help the plywood stick to the metal?
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:10 AM   #6
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Don't

Plywood has no place in a floor. Did you not learn from the plywood you removed?

Now if you must install the crap in the floor of your bus, You need to read build threads on how others did it.

Some did a better job than others. JakeC did one of the best free floating installs.

No screw should go through the plywood and directly into the steel floor.

Doing so will cause condensation to form on the heads of the screws from the temp changes from inside to outside of the bus.

The moisture from the condensation will cause rot, mold, and rust.

liquid nails will do nothing but make a mess.

Nat
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:20 AM   #7
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I'm going to use plywood... But I'm using the GOOD stuff.
http://www.boulterplywood.com/MarinePlywood_4.htm
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:41 AM   #8
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Nat,

Do you have a link to JakeC's thread?

I am using similar plywood to what Eastcoast is using, 3/4 in right?

I have seen others who run 2x4's along the length of the bus and put insulattion there but they have to drill the runners through the floor anyway right?

Also using a really good underlayment on top of plywood.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:57 AM   #9
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Yeah, I'll be running 3/4" over some foam board.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:20 PM   #10
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Thanks for the link! I never even made the connection that the wood on boats would be perfect for a bus conversion. Aaaand, it's prettier than cheapo luan
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:32 PM   #11
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So I am going to throw down the plywood afterwork today. sounds like best way is those tek screws for what i am doing.

My other plan was to go underneath the bus and seal off as many screws as i could find with homemade foaming agent (almost like that yellow foam insulation stuff)

that will help prevent moisture.

i might use something "like" liquid nails but something easy to lay down.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElizaHasAPlan View Post
Thanks for the link! I never even made the connection that the wood on boats would be perfect for a bus conversion. Aaaand, it's prettier than cheapo luan
Yeah, and there are suppliers of this stuff in lots of places.
I'm likely to go somewhere local and get some blemished stuff for the floors. they have decorative grade stuff that would be perfect for visible paneling.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:16 PM   #13
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Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opus View Post
Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
This is the right way when using plywood to prevent thermal bridging.

This is also how JakeC did his.

Jake C's thread.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pr...utus-5059.html

Liquid Nails is useless when gluing to wood to metal. It may seem that is has bonded, but will release in no time from the vibrations in the bus.

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Old 02-22-2016, 11:51 PM   #15
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Though still in process of my own build, I'd started laying some flooring/insulation using screws and liquid nails - but I'll be taking that back up. (Fortunately there wasn't much put down)
The way I'll be doing it now will have a small gap between the panels and bus body (probably 1/8" to 1/4"). Where one panel meets another, there will be a 1/8" gap but also a notch cut out of each panel and an insert cut to fill those notches between the two. This should keep the panels from shifting too much.

To help minimize side to side shifting, I'm moving away from liquid nails (which hardens over time and will break free from the metal) and instead will randomly place some glops (that's the technical term, lol) of clear silicone. It'll stick to both the steel and wood, will remain pliable and help prevent noise. I'll also be putting random lines of silicone between the panels and bus body, filling the gaps in those areas. I'll probably put a 6" line every couple of feet.

Hopefully that all made sense as it's late and I'm whooped.
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:05 AM   #16
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whats going to keep it down in a roll over situation, i screwed the hell out of mine. nothing is perfect
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:29 AM   #17
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I'm planning on bolting 1x4s either side of the aisle with cross beams bolted through both.
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