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07-20-2015, 03:06 PM
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#1
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 82
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Navistar
Chassis: International
Engine: Allison
Rated Cap: 60
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How to lay down plywood?
Hi all,
Simple question and process just thought i would ask the pros.
What is the best way to fasten the plywood to the floor to minimize torquing, end-bends, etc. I am putting an underlayment and laminate on top. Yes i know laminate is an "iffy route" but it was the cheaper/nicer looking route so please no comments on how laminate is a bad idea lol.
Any suggestions on the best way to lay laminate down are greatly appreciated though!!
and as always.....>>>>>LOVE THIS>>>>>>>
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07-20-2015, 03:24 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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I placed mine with 2 coins separating them to keep the from rubbing during frame torque. Then I used a self tapping 2.5" Deck Screw especially along the edges. Worked out for me.
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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07-20-2015, 03:35 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 343
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
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I used the tek screws with wings. The tek screw has a drill point that
drills through the plywood and the metal and the wings ream out the
plywood to allow the screw to pass through the plywood and get a better
grip on the metal. Once the drill point penetrates the metal the wings
break off and allow the self tapping screw to thread into the metal.
Threads on the screw are machine screw threads.
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07-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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Yep - those are the ones
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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07-22-2015, 08:20 AM
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#5
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 82
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Navistar
Chassis: International
Engine: Allison
Rated Cap: 60
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I have seen the work liquid nails tossed around. Would i use that to help the plywood stick to the metal?
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07-22-2015, 09:10 AM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Don't
Plywood has no place in a floor. Did you not learn from the plywood you removed?
Now if you must install the crap in the floor of your bus, You need to read build threads on how others did it.
Some did a better job than others. JakeC did one of the best free floating installs.
No screw should go through the plywood and directly into the steel floor.
Doing so will cause condensation to form on the heads of the screws from the temp changes from inside to outside of the bus.
The moisture from the condensation will cause rot, mold, and rust.
liquid nails will do nothing but make a mess.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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07-22-2015, 09:20 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I'm going to use plywood... But I'm using the GOOD stuff.
http://www.boulterplywood.com/MarinePlywood_4.htm
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07-22-2015, 09:41 AM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 82
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Navistar
Chassis: International
Engine: Allison
Rated Cap: 60
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Nat,
Do you have a link to JakeC's thread?
I am using similar plywood to what Eastcoast is using, 3/4 in right?
I have seen others who run 2x4's along the length of the bus and put insulattion there but they have to drill the runners through the floor anyway right?
Also using a really good underlayment on top of plywood.
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07-22-2015, 11:57 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Yeah, I'll be running 3/4" over some foam board.
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07-22-2015, 12:20 PM
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#10
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 76
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Thanks for the link! I never even made the connection that the wood on boats would be perfect for a bus conversion. Aaaand, it's prettier than cheapo luan
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07-22-2015, 12:32 PM
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#11
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Almost There
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 82
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Navistar
Chassis: International
Engine: Allison
Rated Cap: 60
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So I am going to throw down the plywood afterwork today. sounds like best way is those tek screws for what i am doing.
My other plan was to go underneath the bus and seal off as many screws as i could find with homemade foaming agent (almost like that yellow foam insulation stuff)
that will help prevent moisture.
i might use something "like" liquid nails but something easy to lay down.
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07-22-2015, 01:14 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElizaHasAPlan
Thanks for the link! I never even made the connection that the wood on boats would be perfect for a bus conversion. Aaaand, it's prettier than cheapo luan
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Yeah, and there are suppliers of this stuff in lots of places.
I'm likely to go somewhere local and get some blemished stuff for the floors. they have decorative grade stuff that would be perfect for visible paneling.
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07-22-2015, 04:16 PM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
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07-25-2015, 12:51 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opus
Mine is free floating, not attached to anything but spacers between sheets of foam board.
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This is the right way when using plywood to prevent thermal bridging.
This is also how JakeC did his.
Jake C's thread.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pr...utus-5059.html
Liquid Nails is useless when gluing to wood to metal. It may seem that is has bonded, but will release in no time from the vibrations in the bus.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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02-22-2016, 11:51 PM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: NW Pennsylvania
Posts: 8
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Yup - it works. :)
Chassis: Chebby
Engine: Gas 6.0l BB Chevy
Rated Cap: 'bout that much.
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Though still in process of my own build, I'd started laying some flooring/insulation using screws and liquid nails - but I'll be taking that back up. (Fortunately there wasn't much put down)
The way I'll be doing it now will have a small gap between the panels and bus body (probably 1/8" to 1/4"). Where one panel meets another, there will be a 1/8" gap but also a notch cut out of each panel and an insert cut to fill those notches between the two. This should keep the panels from shifting too much.
To help minimize side to side shifting, I'm moving away from liquid nails (which hardens over time and will break free from the metal) and instead will randomly place some glops (that's the technical term, lol) of clear silicone. It'll stick to both the steel and wood, will remain pliable and help prevent noise. I'll also be putting random lines of silicone between the panels and bus body, filling the gaps in those areas. I'll probably put a 6" line every couple of feet.
Hopefully that all made sense as it's late and I'm whooped.
__________________
-CannMan
Relax and enjoy the scenery, it IS floored.
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02-23-2016, 06:05 AM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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whats going to keep it down in a roll over situation, i screwed the hell out of mine. nothing is perfect
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02-23-2016, 09:29 AM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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I'm planning on bolting 1x4s either side of the aisle with cross beams bolted through both.
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