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Old 03-09-2015, 08:53 PM   #1
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How to reduce thermal exchange sweating on ceiling

Been trying to figure out where water was coming from at the bottom of the inside walls on my Bluebird All American. Finally figured out it's from the ceiling of the outside metal skin of the bus roof.

Without skinning down to metal and starting over are there other viable thermal options??

Thanks!!....Mark
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:36 PM   #2
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PS...I'm talking about thermal sweating - condensation from extreme temperature changes causing excess water to pool and run off the outer skin of the ceiling (can't see it till it runs out of the bottom of the wall panels). Any ideas how to stop it??
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:11 AM   #3
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Are you sure you don't have a leak? My suggestion (leak or not) is to coat the roof with an elastomeric roof coating.
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:27 AM   #4
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Positive - No roof leak

Thanks for the thought, but I am positive it is not a roof leak. My roof is solid, no degradation. I took a couple of lights out of the ceiling, moved some insulation out of the way, and sure enough the inside of the metal roof was sweating like crazy.

Would an elastomeric coating on the outside actually help contain that? I reeeeeally don't want to rip out all the rivets on the inner ceiling to fix this problem.

Thanks!...Mark

PS...I should mention there was about 2" of ice on the roof at the time, and I was running a propane heater inside while working on the floor.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:11 AM   #5
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The propane heater will add a LOT of water to your environment if not a vented one. The only way I know to reduce or eliminate condensation is to either have surrounding materials that will absorb and release slowly the humidity (I had a utility trailer with steel roof and masonite side panels that never condensed. The other way is to eliminate the metal to air interface with spray foam or some sort of coating that won't allow the thermal transfer to allow the water to condense when the dew point is optimal for such. Think tight fitting koozie on your beer can.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:45 AM   #6
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The elastomeric will help a little as a thermal break, or rather it did in my situation. It helps a lot with the NM heat transfer. Get a dehumidifier and dry the place out as fast as possible. TN has high enough humidity that cracking a window while running the LP heater isn't going to help a great deal. I use LP but no humidifier. Before I head back east, I will be installing one with an exterior drain. I just need to find a place to put it.
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Old 03-11-2015, 12:45 PM   #7
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Thanks for your time and thoughts! My objective is to get comfortable and functional without spending a pile of cash....as I have other things to spend the pile upon...LOL! I think I will try the ceramic insulated elastomeric roof coating, then maybe try to invent some type of roof venting airflow system to accelerate drying in that 2" space area between to two ceiling and roof plates. I do appreciate your input. I had not considered Propane causing excess H2O via condensation, but now that it's mentioned I see it clearly. Thanks again!!
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:11 PM   #8
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venting

My 1980 blue bird had the same problem you need to install multiple roof vents I put 4 in the outer skin and 2 all the way through rv vents work for the through ones. The 4 outer skin ones can be found at any home reno store and are about the size of a hockey puck ... yes im canadian
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:19 PM   #9
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Thanks for the vent info!

Greetings!....Thanks for the vent information. I'll check on the external ones you mention but have a question about the other. What are "through vents"? Can you give me an example of where to look?

All the best...Mark
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Old 04-11-2015, 02:50 AM   #10
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The through vents are just your regular rv vents that you can get at walmart/Canadian tire or your equivalent store .
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